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Answered my own question. AIM D55 A7. Screw and lock washer to the top of the tunnel.

So I just finished rebuilding my center console, and have installed a new console wiring harness. A little less than half way up the run to the ash tray courtesy light there is a black ground wire. Where is that secured to the body? Does anyone have a decent picture of it?

1969 Z28, 4-speed console with gauges.

Thanks!

Thanks, that was very helpful. It's unfortunate so many photos were lost, but the few that remained revealed a couple things I would have surely missed.

I am rebuilding a console gauge cluster, and have only found a bottom up view of the assembly in the AIM. Is there a good diagram available with a top down view of how the gauges and fasteners go in from the top?

FYI... SuperBrightLEDs.com is currently having a 15% OFF Everything SALE!
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Couldn't ask for better timing! Thanks!

My 67 rear tail lights are led factory style socket, purchased from Advance Auto, and had no effect on turn signal blinking speed. The pic is just the running lights not the brake lights.

Those look good. Brighter than original? I have read on this board that the bright LEDs used in the inside rear lights on a non-rs 69 overwhelm the brake lights, making them harder to notice when they're on. I am not sure if this is still true in all cases.

I have recently replaced all bulbs with LED's except for the headlights on my 69.
I love them. The new dash LED's are much brighter, have 360 degree coverage, and still dimmable.

Could you share your bulb choices/source? I am particularly interested in console lights, dome light, etc.

-D

So, while my search skills may have failed me, I believe it has been quite some times since LED bulbs were discussed here. The technology has moved quite a bit forward, and now there are several types, some of which are so bright that safety is debated. For my '69 Z, I am interested in brighter lights for my parking, breaking, turning, and reverse lights. Plasma LEDs sound great for break lights. I am wondering if anyone has any experience with using these on a first gen?

Many of the new bulbs have LEDs arranged around it so should cast light like the original incandescents, allowing them to work better in the housing where the bulbs come up through the bottom. The different brightness's are my concern. I don't want brake lights lost in the brightness of the inner tail light.

Also I am considering replacing some of the internal bulbs (overhead lamp, console lamps, etc) with brighter LEDs. So I am looking for feedback/experiences with those as well. Thanks!

Thanks everyone for keeping the discussion going. I believe the service replacement theory is the best one so far.

Looks right, but with modified mounting surfaces. 

You posted as I was typing. .060 is a large gap ,more than we run on the race car.

After a short drive, the backfiring seems to be resolved. This is after replacing the previous plugs with new autolites that were all gapped at 35. Crossing my fingers.

Thanks again to everybody who helped. CRG is definitely my favorite online resource.  

I replaced the plugs, and checked the gaps on the originals. The old plugs were not gapped to 35 as prescribed. Looks much larger (60?) However, my original points dizzy is out of the car waiting on a rebuild. I have a Pertronix Ignitor III
distributor setup in it now, and a Pertronix flamethrower coil. This basically means much more spark, so I am not sure the larger gap made a difference.

After gapping and installing the new plugs, 2-pumps and she starts right up. It was 40 degrees out this morning, and no problem at all with starting. I'll take her for a short spin today before I proceed further. Then I hope to tackle the carb & vacuum leak checks.

How does one check/adjust the choke? I understand the need for the gap check on the choke plate when closed. It is about 9/32". Are there other adjustments to check? This is the original style choke, not electric.

Shane

Had the Sport Car 200s on mine, and wow, what a terrible ride. Pulled me all over the road. Ruts=bad news.

I know you are shooting for originality, but I put T/As on her, and it felt like I had replace the entire suspension. Night and day.

Shane

Here are my plugs.

http://s829.photobucket.com/user/vetteran81/slideshow/1969%20Camaro%20Z28/Plugs

Obvious tuning issue. #5 worried me a little.

Thanks for all the great advice! As for the choke, I am pretty much an idiot. I may have just been a little too aggressive when trying to start up on a cold morning and flooded it. The weather has only been cold a few mornings so far, and I think I just pumped it too hard. The weather has warmed back up and I have to wait until another cold morning comes around to verify things.

Now that the weekend is here I hope to have time to go through a basic tune up, and if I can find a decent  reference for this old 4053 I will try and ensure that it is set correctly.