Messages

You are correct, my car has a block under the master cylinder that is distribution block and not a proportioning valve as I stated.
Do I need to replace this or add a proportioning valve to get the front disc brakes to work properly?

Currently I cannot get the front brakes to lock up and the car is not stopping as good as the original drum brakes.

I currently have the original proportioning valve on the car. My question is do I need to replace it. If so what valve, one made for front disc brakes?

I had the front drum brakes replaced with disc today. After driving it a bit I noticed the back brakes are the only ones that are locking up when I try to stop quick. The master cylinder was replaced with the one for disc brakes. The brakes were bled properly.

Do I need to change the proportioning valve?
The mechanic who changed it only does brakes and is very knowledgeable, but not sure how to handle this?

Help please!

Ok I got my gears changed again a few weeks ago with US gears 3.31. I took my car to a shop that does only rear axle repairs and gear changing. The mechanic called and said both tubes were bent forward about an inch on each side? He said he could not straighten them so, I told him to go ahead and change the gears and do his best. After changing the gears he said that they whined a little around 35mph. I said great, I can live with that. He sent me pictures of the pattern on both sides and they looked great.

I picked the car up and drove it gently for the next 500 miles over two weeks, never above 60mph. I changed the oil from 80/90 to 85/140 and added the clutch juice. I also used a striaght edge to check tthe tubes for straightness and I could not see any bend? So far no issues, a minor whine around 35 to 40 mph, but with the AC and radio going you have to listen for it to hear it.

Thanks for all your help. Rt 66 here I come in the fall.

Dale Kerr

I bought a used set of gm 3.31 gears. the last two mechanics did not want to use them since, used. But agreed they look good. Should I jsut use these gears, they have to be better than the after market gears?

Well I've had the gears changed three times in my 67 12 bolt rear end and each time it has whined. The first hack did a bad job and they were not set up correctly. Started whining at 20mph.
The secound mechanic set them up perfectly according to him and they whined around 50-55 mph until I changed the gear oil to Syntheticoil,  (Lucas 80/90) as he suggested and they became much louder and started at 45 mph. He claims there must be something wrong with the rear end housing. Gave my money back and does not want to do them again

Yukon says not so, just not set up properly.

Next guy same thing only worse.  He claimed no whine while on the rack, so it must be something else besides rear end!

New gears, crush sleve etc, each time. 3.31 gears

Is it possble they don't know how to set up and old rear end?

Sure would like to hear the radio while cruising. Hopeing to do a part of route 66 this year. Suggestions appreciated, Located in Central Louisiana

Well today I pulled the diff cover and checked the pattern. It looked good so I changed the oil to Lucas 85/140 conventional oil, added the special clutch lubricant and drove the car. The whine is not as bad as before. I am going to next pull the carpet and add insullation. I think I can live with the minor whine then. It is most noticable at 55mph. I guess I will drive 60 and above instead!

Note the last mechanic put in 75/90 synthetic oil, my research shows that synthetic oils let the gears whine louder. I believe this to be true, since last time after the gears were changed I went from conventional oil to synthetic and the whine got louder.

Thanks for the helpfull posts.

They were all new gears, first set was US gears made in US  then two sets of yukon firts was 3.42 then tried 3.31.
I bought a set of gm 3.31 used gears that looked good, but got talked out of using them. I think UI should have insisted on using them.

Guys I need some help please. I bought a used 67 12 bolt for my camaro and had it installed with new gears, bearings and one new axle. The rear end has had a whine between 40  and 60 mph. Youy can play with the throttle and make the whine come and go.

I've since had the gears and bearings repalced twice and a new posi unit installed. Three different mechanics replaced the gears and bearings, they all had years of experince on rear end gears.

What else can be causing the noise? Maybe a bad axle? 

I plan on taking this car on a road trip on Route 66 and would love to hear the radio instead of the rear end whine.

Suggestions please, short of replacing the whole rear end. The transmission has been rebuilt recently also.

Thanks in advance

Dale Kerr

The old pump will not engage, I'm sure it is an electrical problem. Maybe I can play with or take it to a local alternator shop and have them fix it.

Thanks for the help.

Please, I need some help. How do you bolt the new style washer pump to the 67 wiper motor? The units came with no instructions and the holes don't line up. There must be trick to make this pump work on the 67, since all the suppliers carry this unit for 67 models. I replaced two of these on 68 models with no problems.

I recently replaced my wore out washer pump with an after market replacement it worked fine for a few days, then it sprayed whenever the wipers were turned on. I unplugged the wires to it, made no difference, still sprayed when wipers were running.
. So I sent the pump back an purchased an NOS unit, installed same issue 1967 with 68 style pump. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks Dale Kerr

Ok I ordered and installed a new crankshaft pulley 7.25 and a new water 6.3 pump pulley today. This seems to have solved my running hot while idling. The car is now running about 10 degrees cooler while driving and idling. 

I read on another site about pulley sizes and  cooling.

180 stock water pump.

I have a 67 with sbc motor and  I added vintage air. Since adding the air the car runs hot up to 230 degrees while sitting idling  after 10 minutes or so. It never gets above 190 while driving at highway speeds. The car has a new 3 core aluminum radiator with shroud, new 7 blade fan and clutch. I noticed that the crankshaft and water pump pulleys are the same size.

I can rev the motor rpm up and bring the temperature down.

My question is would possibly  changing the crankshaft pulley to a larger size or putting a smaller water pump pulley solve my running hot while idling issue?

Yes the timing is set correctly.

Opinions please

Thanks in advance

Dale Kerr