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My son and I get a kick out of Seinfeld, we are always busting each other.  The important sounding "H. E. Pennypacker" was an alias of Kramer's whenever they had some scheme cooking.
Mrpennypkr just has a few less letters.

Great topic for a post!

Tony

[clean]

1  Make sure the wires are clean, no melted insulation.
2  Heat up and wipe the soldering iron tip with a wet sponge to get a clean tip it will sizzle like hell, but you probably never saw the tip so clean.  The thin coat of solder on the tip will be clean and shinny.
3  Twist each of the two wires individually to tighten the strands.
4  Use this method when joining wires in a straight run:
        If you plan to use shrink wrap insulation, remember to place the tube on the wire now before joining.
        Place the two wires together pointing at each other with about half an inch of overlap, interlace the ends together.
        Place the clean hot iron tip on the joint, after it heats the wire place some silver bearing rosin core electrical solder
              on the wires, it is best if the solder melts from the heat of the wire rather than the heat of the iron.  If you melt the solder
              toughing the iron with insufficient heat on the wire, you end up with a dull cold joint, rather than a shinny proper bond.
        Use very thin solder, not the thick stuff you use to repair water pipes in the basement.  If you melt insulation into your joint or   
        get other foreign material in the joint, start over with a fresh trim of the wire.
     
       Use the lowest heat setting on your iron that will do the job, excessive heat tends to melt insulation and make a mess.
       Wrap with electrical tape when finished if you did not opt for the shrink wrap.

p.s. If there is a heat sensitive component near the joint you can use a small alligator clip as a heat sink between the joint and the component.
      I also like to use a clean piece of wood as a work surface when making a joint in an odd place, it helps stabilize the wires.

Don't worry it isn't as hard as I make it sound.  A little practice will do it

Sorry for the repetition...Senior Moment!
Tony

FYI   
The air cleaner on ebay is for an Automatic Transmission equipted 350 SS  as indicated by the heat valve on the snorkel.

Tony

The only light show I get is the "brake" light IF the parking brake is on, and the "Low Fuel" which only comes on and stays on IF the fuel is low.  The console gages will give bogus readings until the power is turned on and will then snap to the correct readings.  The owners manual only mentions that the generator light will come on and then go off, however that is replaced by your console gauge.
This is one case where no lights at all is good news.

Tony

Yes. Console with gauges.

Here are a few  after sandblast.  I may have another shot on mpg.   69 SS 350 4sp I don't think there are any non original holes.
Good Luck,
Tony

My 69 L48 Q jet also has a fuel return line.  Shown in assembly manual page 298 UPC L48 A3.
Tony

FYI   My AVG Anti-Virus also blocked the page about an hour ago.  11:00PM Eastern 8/7/20

Tony

Not working for me.  IE8   cleared everything in browser.   Closed and reopened browser, still NG  ??

Thank you John. 

Tony

I have restored my 69 SS350 4sp to pure stock original condition except for deleting the AIR pump and associated plumbing.  (cam, pistons, heads quadrajet are factory)  Are any changes necessary to the base timing, carb settings, fule mixture and other tuning settings?

Thanks,
Tony 

That is the correct lower hose.  The lower hose is larger than the upper.  The upper hose is 3956662.  The upper outlet is hard to measure on my 69 350 SS 4Sp but it is about 1 1/2 inches.

Keep it stock....Don't kill and old Camaro.

Thanks, Ed.  That is certainly what I remember.  The ones I saw were large flower tops.  A center circle with large pettels... A whole bunch of groovy colors and various sizes on a white background.  Very colorful.  Are there any survivors out there?