Messages

I am going to go look at what the seller says is a 69 pace car convertible with a 396 4-speed. It is buried in his garage and has been for many years. It has a warranty replacement block, he said. What should I look for to make sure this is the real deal?? Thanks, Karl

I'm sure you have checked this, but I did a Chevelle awhile back and the oil pan was hitting the crossmember in a place that was hard to see. It drove me crazy for awhile. With the proper oil pan installed, everything fell into place. Just a thought. Karl

I bought a short big block water pump for my 68 396 project and would like to I.D. it.
The casting # is 336100, it may be 386100, but I'm sure it's 336100
The part number on the GM box is 3990993.
Anybody know what this is for??? Thanks, Karl

  I have a Holley dual feed 4 bbl carb, list # 3310-2, date code 0762. Does anyone know what the correct application for this carb is Thanks, Karl

That's the answer I wanted to hear, Thanks, Karl

I am restoring a 1968 Camaro that I bought w/o an engine. It was a big block orig. ,and I want to install a 454 I have. Can you put a short waterpump and corosponding pulleys to make it look orig? or does the 454 dampner prevent that. I have heard the 454 is balanced exterally with the dampner. Thanks, Karl It's a mid 70's truck engine.

Thanks for everyones help! We bled these brakes so much and no air was coming out, so I thought it was all out! Wrong!, I drove the car over to a local brake shop, and with their vacuum pump they removed so much more air it's obvious why they were not working. I have since invested in one of those vacuum pumps. Never again will I pump to bleed. My lesson for the week I guess.
Thanks again and remember this little trick. $50.00 and 20 minutes and your done.

The parking brake works good. The wheel cylinders are new and I have checked the pistons and they are free. I have checked the whole system at least 3 times and everything is correct. After I bled all the air out of the system, (several times to make sure) I removed one of the rear drums and my wife pressed  the pedal as hard as she could and there was no movement at all. The pin on the front of the porportion valve still pops out when the brakes are pushed, so there is still a pressure difference from front to rear. I am going to take it in and have the brakes pressure bled and see what that does. Thanks for all your help, Karl

Thanks for the input, Steve. I have checked all the mechanics and everything is correct. I have come to the conclusion that the porportioning valve limits the system in a static mode. Once driven, the brakes work great and the rear drums are hot, so I believe they are working while driving, just not while up on jack stands. I may be wrong, but the car stops perfect now. Thanks again, Karl

Yes, Master Cylinder was bench bled before installed. Rear brake shoes do not move at all when pedal pushed. With both feet firmly planted on brake pedal, you can turn the rear drums by hand. Funny thing is, when you drive it, the pedal feels normal and it stops excellent. I just don't think the rear drums should be able to turn with the brakes applied. I installed the exact same system on my 56 Nomad and you can't turn them? Thanks for you imput, Karl

PLEASE PLEASE HELP, NO REAR BRAKES 2, I converted from manual drum to power disc/drum and the rears do not work. I have replaced the booster/master cyl, combo/porportion valve, front and rear flex hose's, rear brake tubing, wheel cylinders and the rear brakes just will not work, period. No air is present in the system, the front calipers work perfect. What is going on??? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Karl

Thanks for the input, will replace it as it is the original, Karl

I have converted my 68 over to power front disc brakes. I used the single piston calipers, a 11" Booster, 1968 Disc/Drum master cyl with the new style combo/porportion valve. Bled all the air out, (pushing in on the front button on the por. valve) and I have no rear brakes. The front rotors stop when you push on the brakes, but the rear's do nothing. Removed the drum and no movement at all. The wheel cyls are new too. Fluid came out while bleeding, but real slow. WHAT IS WRONG? Should I put a later model Master Cyl on???
Any help would be appreciated, Thanks Karl

I am looking for a 67-69 Camaro to restore and would like to find a real SS. How can you tell if a car is a real SS with all the clones out there? Also how can you tell if it came with a big block or a small block. What about the RS?  I have seen so many that look good, only to find out they are clones. My 68 SS Chevelle has the proof right in the VIN #. What about Camaros?  Thanks, Karl