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Thanks William. I appreciate your reply.

The casting date is J178. The VIN was lightly stamped and difficult to read. I had to clean it with a wire brush. This block going to the machine shop on Monday for cleaning and magnafluxing. I hope it's not a boat anchor.

This block looks like it's been setting for decades. It has some rust issues and has been home to mud daubers and spiders. The stamping and broach marks appear good to me but I'm not an expert.

Does the stamping look legitimate?

 

Just picked up this block today. It's .030 over and a bit rough. Missing the rear main cap.

19L506664. Is this a real DZ block?

I has been at least three years since I fixed my mirror, maybe longer. I put around 1500 miles per year on the car. The mirror is still as tight as the day I fixed it. If needed I can still adjust it.

I guess you could use the slow messy method in the above link.

What I did was much quicker and easier. I used a small hammer and a sharp punch. I removed the mirror and turned the head to expose the part of the ball that is normally covered. I used the hammer and punch to knurl the ball. I then moved the head some and knurled the other side of the ball. The mirror is nice and tight now and the knurling is hidden when the mirror is returned to its normal position. It is a quick and dirty fix and that works great!

I had a cyclical vibration above 65 MPH in my '67 for years. I changed wheels and tires, had the driveshaft balanced, and even replaced the driveshaft but never managed to get rid of the vibration. Nothing I tried got rid of the annoying vibration until last week.

The other day I was at Harbor Freight and picked up a cheap angle finder. When I checked the pinion on the rear end I found it was pointing down 4º. The transmission was also pointing down 3½º. From everything I have read about proper driveline setup these numbers were way off. The way I understand it the transmission and the rear end should be parallel to each other for the U-joints to operate smooth.

   

In other words with my transmission pointing down -3½º, the pinion on the rear end should have been pointing up +3½º not down -4º. My pinion angle was way off.

I ordered some 4º leaf spring shims to correct the pinion angle. I actually used two 4º shims on each side. I placed one shim on top of the spring and one facing the other way on the bottom so the shock plate would sit level. I also eliminated the rubber spring pads in the spring perches. I had to add a 3/8 inch thick spacer and a longer bolt to the spring pack so it would fit tight in the perch.

I also made a ½ inch spacer for under the transmission mount to raise the rear of the transmission. My transmission is now 2º down and the pinion is level or 0º. The leaf springs should wrap up a couple of degrees from the axle torque which will hopefully put the pinion 2º up while running down the road.

It's now smooth as glass.

I am convinced Chevrolet Engineering simply screwed up when they came up with the out-of-phase driveshaft and the incorrect pinion angles in first generation Camaros. I wonder how many first gen Camaros are out there with a high speed driveshaft vibration from an incorect pinion angle.

Here is an original trim ring from my 11E car. My wheels are 5 inch "DA" rallys.

Do your original rings look like mine?

I would get a brand name diaphragm clutch like Zoom, Hayes, or Centerforce.

If your clutch kit comes with a pilot bushing, do yourself a favor and check it with a magnet before you install it. If a magnet sticks to it don't use it. Most of the pilot bushings in these kits as well as most of them for sale in the auto parts stores are made in China and adulterated with 40% iron. These cheap Chinese bushings don't have the self lubricating properties of a 100% bronze oilite bushing. Worse yet many of them don't even fit! When you pound one of these oversize bushings into your crankshaft you will either shave metal from the OD of the bushing or squeeze the ID of the bushing making a tight fit on the transmission input shaft. Often times the result is a spun pilot bushing after just a few thousand miles.

Napa stores carry a 100% bronze heavy duty pilot bushing. The part number is BK 6151161. Unlike the cheap pilot bushings the 100% bronze bushing is easy to install, won't gall your transmission input shaft, and will last longer than the clutch. For only $3.29 it is good insurance. http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&PartNumber=6151161&Description=Clutch+Pilot+Bushing

Napa also carries Chinese junk iron pilot bushing BK 6151014 for $1.69. Don't buy this one.

If you want to install an 11 inch clutch in your Z28 you will need the following parts:

•   An 11 inch passenger car bellhousing (GM 3899621, 3872444 or 464697)
•   Bellhousing dust cover
•   168 tooth flywheel
•   Iron nosed, staggered bolt starter
•   Starter bolts
•   Starter brace

The only difference between the 3860457 and 3770509 pulleys is the location of the track. The "509" pulley is about ¼ inch deeper. You should locate a "457" pulley if you are going to run the 327 PS brackets.

Or better yet get the 302/350 high performance type brackets for your car. There are several advantages the HP PS brackets have over the 327 brackets.

•   The pump bolts are easier to get a wrench on.
•   You can run an 8 inch balancer
•   They will work with interlocking motor mounts
•   Your "509" pulley is designed to work with these brackets

The reproduction 302/350 brackets are available for about $50

I replaced the 327 brackets with reproduction 302/350 brackets on my 67 so I could run the interlocking motor mounts and an 8 inch harmonic balancer.

With the 327 PS brackets it's a real pain to tighten the belt. Chevrolet should have used the 302/350 PS brackets on all 67-68 Camaros with V8's.

I think it's:         5459467   1"     62     D2

But it could be:  5459467   1"     262 or 362    D7

The cast numbers are hard to read with a mirror.

Anyone else have a manual disc 67 that can help with some info?

I have a '67 11E LOS car with manual disc brakes. I have owned the car for 22 years and it has been in the family for 35 years. I believe the MC is original. It has an AD code and a 5459467 casting number.

It's tough to get a clear picture of the numbers on the bottom of the MC. Here is the best I could get.


I removed the hold off valve a few years ago when it gave me some trouble. I really need to rebuild it and put it back on.

I also have a 1967 "2G" car. It came with a console and a 3 speed manual transmission.

I believe Fisher Body trim tag option codes indicate changes that are different from a standard body build at the Fisher plant. The funny thing is there is not one single difference between a "2G" body and a non SS "2LG" body.

If it's gray and in the bottom of the pan under the oil it's material from the bearings.

There are no Camaros with a legal early black plate starting with "A" through "S". Back when the Camaro was first introduced in 1966 the state was issuing "T" or "U" plates.

When these cars were sold new the plates were issued by the DMV in Sacramento and mailed to the new owner. The plate number sequence a new car received was directly dependent on the date the car was titled. It didn't mater where in California the selling dealer or the buyer was located. The date the MSO was processed and the title issued determined the letter sequence the black plates received.

My car was first sold on 4/1/1967 and my plate number is URC 357.

I run the original 40+ year old T-3's that came in my car when it was new. I often drive at night and the light they cast is every bit as bright as my "modern" vehicles.

I give the original Guide T-3 headlights the highest of ratings for lighting up the dark road and extremely long life.