Messages

12.5 volts on the battery
I pushed the car back and forth in gear
Lights work, etc.

Any suggestions on trouble shooting steps?  I suspect I'll have to check voltages tomorrow.

I had a somewhat similar issue. Turned out to be the ignition switch.

Dwell set, timing checked and drove around the block.  So far, so good.  Thanks all!

Well...We're on the right track.  I installed the new points from NAPA with condenser.  I also got the starter bolt fixed.  Gapped to .019 and turned the key and it started right up.  Woot woot!.  Next, I'll set the dwell and go around the block.  Thanks for getting me straight guys!!

If you drive it a lot, go with a single wire breakerless  ignition and call it day! they are very reliable.

Hmmmm, I never heard of this.  So, not an MSD, but electronic without the box and looks original.  Interesting.  I need to hear more.

I'll be honest, I'm not convinced the points are my issue here, but I'm going for it because I've got nothing else.  I'm going to post a photo of the rotor angle and associated spark plug wire positions for another set of eyes this weekend. Thank you all for keeping this going. 

Go to NAPA & get the CS786 & the RR175. The Corvette had a better set of points but I can't remember the part number....Joe

Checked online, saw the NAPA 45 minutes away had them.  Drove over...you know the rest of the story...

I came home and ordered them online - they should be here Tuesday.  Please check for this thread when it renews on Wednesday or so!!

Stingr69 said:

"Condenser outside on coil bracket is actually there as a filter for AM radio interference.  It is not required for engine operation.  Leave it disconnected for now."

Gimmea250swb said:

"No condenser in the distributor, only the one on the coil bracket."



Although you say you have a 0.019" point gap, what is the physical condition of the points themselves?  Are they burnt or corroded?

I would think that you need the proper condenser (capacitor) inside the distributor, because it prevents current from arcing (jumping) across an open gap in the breaker points and ensures that the circuit is broken cleanly which also helps to prolong the operational life of the points.  Prolonged arcing across the point gap will eventually damage the points which can result in: vehicle will not fire or start as well as a rough running engine if it does start.

Richard

The points aren't burnt. I wouldn't call them corroded, but I'm not going to take a chance and I'll just buy one.  The car hasn't run with an internal condenser for 15+ years.  Would it be the same condenser as the one on the coil bracket and it screws into one of the holes one the distributor plate or should I buy the combined point/conderser set like THIS?

https://www.npdlink.com/product/contact-set-points-distributor-w-capacitor-ac-delco-replaces-gm-pn-1876600/112813

Check for spark at the plugs, if nothing, replace the condenser!

I started each of the pugs not wanted to leave anything out. 1, 3, 5, 7 no issues.

I went to check 2 and when my wife hit the key I saw a spark at the starter.  I didn't notice if 2 fired.  I went underneath to see if anything was loose.  Wires seemed good, but I noticed the bolt connecting the solenoid to the starter was out of place and loose.  I tried tightening it and no luck.  I pulled it out and it looked fried.  I need to fix this before I can continue.  The starter worked although it seemed hard to get going.  Before this whole thing, I recall the starter zipping on.  Regardless, I feel like this isn't contributing to the lack of vroom.

Set new point gap at .019".  I have no idea where you got .015"?

Do you have a condenser inside your distributor?  I cant see any wire for it?  Should be hooked up to the points, along with the coil negative wire attachment.

White/red cloth covered resistance wire from fuse block goes to coil + along with yellow wire from starter solenoid.

Condenser outside on coil bracket is actually there as a filter for AM radio interference.  It is not required for engine operation.  Leave it disconnected for now.

Hey Stinger, thanks for the reply.

I'm adding photos for another set of eyes.

Gap set to .019"

No condenser in the distributor, only the one on the coil bracket. I checked continuity between the point connection and the coil connector since I was there. Good continuity. it is connected to the negative coil terminal.

Yes, white/red and yellow connected to + coil.

Condenser outside is disconnected.

I also double checked TDC and my spark plug wiring.  No luck.

69z/28. I took an opportunity to clean some parts and pulled all the black bracketry out of the engine bay, repainted and installed.  I took the car out for a ride and it died after about a 25 minute drive and I had it towed home.  After some effort and a smoked battery to chassis wire, I discovered I never connected the primary negative battery line to the block.  I connected it and the car seemed to run fine after a few rounds around the block.  I took a chance the next day and after about 15 minutes the car died again.  It stuttered a couple of times and then completely died.  I towed it home and haven't gotten it running sense. Here's where I am:

Battery is 12.5 volts, charged, engine cranks but doesn't start.
The insulation around the negative battery to chassis wire is melted, but I've still got continuity and ground at the bolt
I've got nice good fuel spray in the carb and I've tried starter fluid
I bought a new coil and installed it.  Resistance between - / + is around 3 ohms and from main to - is 10k ish
I've tried to crank it with and without the condenser
The yellow/white wire and condenser are on + coil and the black dist / brown tach wire are on -.  At one point the condenser was incorrectly connected to neg.
Voltage at the + coil terminal with key on 6V
Voltage at the + coil when cranking 9-10V
Point gap is .015" so it's not frozen there
Had an inline spark tester that seemed to flash fine
I considered that I may have hooked up the spark plug wires wrong after checking the points.  I disconnected the #1 plug and found the compression stroke and aligned the timing marker to TDC.  The rotor points (and pointed before) to about the #6 position.  It's off clock, but it was fine before.  Photo below shows where it points and where I'm connecting the #1 plug wire.  Seems right to be at some degree BTDC - again, timing was good before all this.
As I type this I've done nothing to check the voltage regulator. 

All suggestion are welcome.  I'm more than willing to start at square one.

On the photo in this link, it appears all the fasters were painted.  Is that how they came?

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=15087.msg134273#msg134273

On the mounting bracket bolts, what was their finish?  I found these on HeartbeatCity.  Should I refinish what I have or just by these?

https://www.heartbeatcitycamaro.com/14466/1969-76-Camaro-Power-Steering-Pump-Mounting-Bolt-Kit-302-307-327-350-USA%21/

Here is my current pump:

Refresh on this one MANY years ago.  I searched D&R and it doesn't look like they're selling them anymore.  Could someone please post the latest best examples?

Proof that I search before asking a question 

Is the color of the hose bracket and the alternator bracket the same? 

A little nuance on the question...Igot them pulled and wondering how I should refresh them. 

My car's been down at my dad's house (near the beach) for a year in storage.  The restoration is a bit old too.  I'm taking some time to freshen up the engine bay.  I pulled the alternator tonight...

69 Z/28.

Alternator number: 1100693, 6E3 build date...anybody want to trade alternators?  I know...long shot!

Are the pulley or fan correct for a z/28?  I see no numbers on them.

How should I clean them up?  There's some rust showing.  I was thinking evaporust or bead blasting and the Eastwood Tin Zinc plating.  Any thoughts?

What's the finish of the alternator mounting bracket bolts and hose clip?  Phosphate and oil?

Thanks!!!

Thanks for the guidance.  Here's the finished product.