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Good call, I think you are right.  From the inside out, it looks like the head of the fastener deterred the rust.  I hate that someone did this to an otherwise unmolested camaro. 

I hadn't thought of that, but you may be right.  Thanks.

Only one picture made it through with the original post.

I took the dash pad off of my 1969 Camaro and was surprised to find 17 holes that appear to have been drilled in the metal dash under the dash pad.  The holes are spaced apart, generally in two rows, but not precisely spaced.  They appear to have been drilled from the inside of the dash to the outside based on the burr that remains on some of them.  They are not the holes used for the dash pad mounting studs.  I've had several 1969 Camaros, but never noticed anything  like this before.  I doubt they are factory.  Has anyone else seen anything like this?  Any idea what purpose they may have served?  I doubt it matters, but mine is a standard interior.

My 1969 Z28 has the original drivetrain, original distributor, date correct recently restored 4053 (not original), original intake and heads.  I assume the internals are original, but I have not verified.  I try to drive it once a week or at least once every two weeks.  The more frequently I drive it, the easier it is to start and it seems to run and drive better. 

To specifically respond to you questions:
1.   I believe the fuel level in the primary float bowl is low, but I have not checked the level, there is no detectable leakage
2.   I do not add fuel to the primary bowl other than with the starter and mechanical fuel pump
3.   Yes, 5 pumps @ 100%
4.   I do not touch the accelerator when the starter is engaged to avoid backfiring (yes, I have experienced backfiring if I operate the accelerator while
        the starter is engaged)
5.   I do not touch the accelerator when the starter is engaged to avoid backfiring
6.   It does not run "clean" when it first fires, pump accelerator about 50% 2 or 3 times until it runs "clean"
7.   Brief stops to get fuel, I only turn the key and it fires up and runs "clean", for several hour stops 2 pumps @ 100% before turning the key, for next
        day starts I use the 5 step procedure below

After much trial and error, here is the starting procedure I use:
1.   Crank the starter for 5 seconds, turn the key to stop for a second
2.   Crank the starter for 5 seconds, turn the key to stop, adds fuel to the primary fuel bowl and begins oil circulation
3.   With the key in the off position to avoid operating the cowl solenoid,  pump the accelerator 100% 5 times
4.   Without touching the accelerator, turn key to start, fires up but struggles
5.   Pump accelerator about 50% 2 or 3 times until it runs "clean"

Based on the 55 year old dash tach, fast idle is about 1,800 and normal idle is about 1,100.  I rarely take it to 6,000, but pulls hard 3,000 – 6,000.  One problem I have is the exhaust has an extremely strong smell of unburned fuel to the point of making your eyes burn and clothes reek even though cylinder compression and spark plug appearance are normal.

Any informed opinions on the engine vin stamp?  The smog system has been lost and the wheels changed, but otherwise I haven't found anything incorrect.

I asked about the vin and the owner is checking.  The date code does match the protect-o-plate assuming that they are unaltered.  Is this car in the data base?  Anyone know of it?  I have been looking for an unmodified SS 396 to drive.  This one is similar to a SS 350 that I lost after Hurricane Katrina.

As a data point, I didn't balance the clutch/flywheel assembly before installation and have not had vibration issues.  I recently put a Luk RepSet 04-021 and a resurfaced donor GM 3791021 flywheel in my unmodified 1969 Z28.  I installed the clutch kit straight from the box and only had the donor flywheel resurfaced.  I have been restrained so far during break in and have only driven it about 4 times, 10 miles each, maximum of about 4,500 rpms.  No vibrations so far and much improved over the worn out clutch that ultimately suffered a catastrophic failure.

For future reference, it appears that the 379 021 and 3791021 flywheels are equivalent.  I went with the 379 021 flywheel and a LUK RepSet 04-021.  I finished getting it back together over the weekend and initial tests are good.  Starter engages well and engine is very smooth through out a range of rpms, but I may need to adjust the clutch linkage some more.

The existing flywheel has many holes in the thick outer ring too.  I assume that this was done to balance it initially or at some point later.  I am not sure whether it is original, but it is dated E29 or May 2, 1969.  My engine is stamped 0605DZ, which seems possible.  The replacement is dated F258, so about a year older.

Thanks for the response.  I thought that only the 400 cid small block engines were externally balanced.  Now that I have the existing flywheel out, although it is pretty scarred and burnt, I could have it turned. 

I am changing the clutch on my 1969 Z28 with original 302 and Muncie m21.  In preparation for this, I bought a used flywheel a year ago and had it resurfaced to minimize the downtime for clutch replacement.  The number on the replacement flywheel is 379 021.  I just removed the existing flywheel, which shows 3791021.  They appear the same, bolt holes appear the same, and both have 153 teeth.  Are missing digits on cast components common?  Any reason to think the replacement flywheel is not compatible?  I hate working on my back laying under the car, so I only want to do this once.

My search continues.  I bid $55k absentee and was runner up.  It went to an onsite bidder for $55k plus the 10% buyers premium.  I appreciate the input, comments and responses. 

Thanks for the response.  Would a GM service replacement hood have a date code?  I realize it wouldn't correspond to build date.  I forgot about the larger torsion rod used with rear spoiler - excellent point.  Here is the cylinder head date code picture.

I was surprised not to get any responses.  Am I off base with these questions or are these unimportant details or something else?  Useful input would be appreciated.