Messages

Happy New Year to all

My 09C X33 also has the push in, has the 2 holes but no threads.

John

Merry Christmas to all, have a wonderful and memorable day with family and friends and a Happy New Year filled with love health happiness and prosperity, GOD bless.

Thank you all again for all your input,
For the moment I have used paper clips to hold the loose labels to the belt so as I don't loose any more till I can talk to some of the companies mentioned in the replies. Currently I am missing a safety label from my left shoulder belt and a Hamill label from left front seat buckle belt. I had taken many photos in 2001 when the restoration was in progress but never paid a lot of attention to the dates and codes to now.
Not sure if the information on the belts I have noted will help with furthering with the data already gathered by CRG

My front belts and retractable are all 1907 and dated 27 B 69
Rear belts are all 1912 and dated 26 E 69
Shoulder Belts and the 2 centre buckles are all 1952 and dated 1 C 69

All buckles are RCF -65

D Rings
Front are HA2181
Rear  are HA2177

My car is a 3 week September 69 Norwood built

John

Hi MO

Thank you for your reply, I think some of them will need restitching the others look a bit more frail not sure if they can be stitched further in. Will now have to take all the seat belt out and look for an upholsterer and see what solution they come up with.
Being material would be hard I suppose to somehow glue them on the belt not sure if there is a product
that might work without the glue coming through the label.

Thanks again
John

Hi CRG,

I have an issue with my seatbelts which others might have had also, I recently noticed that the Hamill stitching label on one of my seat belts was starting to come apart which caused me concern so I decided to check the condition of all the other labels hoping that the others were much better and notice a few more were starting to come apart due to age and condition. Is there a way to save the labels as this issue now is of great concern as I have tried to keep the car as original as possible in my 22 years of ownership.
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Regards
John

Hi Doug,

Sorry if I came across that way, yes your column auto 396 with bench is also unusual and special. I was asked by the owner if there was any knowledge on those options hens my question. I for one have never seen a 396 be it  column auto of floor shifted auto/manual with a bench seat, I have seen Nova's and Chevelle's but never a Camaro.  Thanks to Byron 1453 TH400  cars built and CRG quote 4003 L35 cars built in 67 as Byron has pointed out there is no way of knowing how many of either cars were made.
Thank you again to both of you for your input.
John

Thank you again for your reply Byron

John

Hello members, over the weekend I came across an original 1967 SS 396 325hp 4sp car. So I approached the owner after talking to the owner and inspecting this beautifully restored Granada Gold with Black vinyl top car I noticed on the trim tag 767-H denoting it to be a black deluxe interior car with the rare bench seat with no headrest, so I pointed it out to the owner as it presently has front buckets seats and console about the bench seat and it turns out that he has store the bench seat which according to the owner is in very good form.
Now I am very curious to see how many of the 6583 bench seat cars built in 1967 came with a 396 and 4sp.
Thanks again for any help,  John

Hi Members,
Danzo,  I also have 8745869 on my original badge that I took of my car back in 2001 when I was restoring it and bought a new old stock with same part number 8745869 on it but this one also had what looks like a large W after the number then had  D429 after the W also in the same line. The 9901 was also there on the diagonal slash.
My Original badge is Red and White while the NOS is Red and Silver.

My new old stock front grill badge has part number CV05-EM14 on it and is red and white, while my original off the car has no part number anywhere on back of the badge but all the edges are much sharper than the NOS. Also on the back of the front grill badge of the NOS has 4 round dots cast in it the number 8, the number 2 has 2 dots, the slash has 1 dot and the Z has 4 dots the original one has none.
Both of them are Red and White.

Since a couple of months ago when the badges where discussed on the forum about differences between OEM badges I started to compare all my original badges that I had removed and kept to see what everyone was talking about and noticed that all my original badges where sharper and more defined and since then I have removed all NOS badges and replaced them with my originals pitting and all.
I have also installed all my original front and back side markers after discovering that the original ones and the NOS had the same part numbers but the originals had a circle indentation a little step in them for when the plugged which hold the globe was inserted in and twisted.

Hi CRG,
I came across an online auction which is currently running correct me if I am wrong, Tags are not original to this car.
https://www.grays.com/lot/0001-20083851/classic-cars/1969-chevrolet-camaro-z-28-454ci-import-manual-coupe?spr=true
I know this car is not in America but for those that are collecting Data it would be of interest.
John

Badshifter,
I agree with cook_dw being original to your car, I also have a 09C NOR built X33 and my 4 rally wheels have the same date K19 8 4 YH.
Best of luck with the restoration....John

Hi 68camaroz28
Yes I am using a crane flat tappet cam with the same grind as the 30/30
John

Thank you Kurt.

And thank you David.K
David my car starts and runs and when it warms up it runs rough I noticed this when I would pull up to the lights while waiting the revs would drop and would need to pump the accelerator or it would stall. Upon closer inspection once the fuel filter and fuel pump where replaced I notice the clear plastic fuel filter would be full when the engine was cold and when you fired it up and let it run till you get heat to the engine the fuel filter starts to drop under half full and slowly drying up and revs would drop and stall. My engine has around 1200 miles and on it, it was rebuilt in 2017 back to factory specs.
Thanks again to all for your input.
John

Hi uscrichter,
Thank you for your help and info, I only use 98 High octane unleaded fuel but the water that you mentioned in the tank I have not thought of. I have heard in the past that if you were to pour Methylated spirits in the fuel tank it evaporates any water or condensation that might be present in the tank.
John

Hi All,
I could use some help with diagnosing an issue with my car if anyone has experienced similar problem and how you ended up fixing it.
My Z28 when I start it the fuel filter is full when the car warms up it empties and stalls, I have changed the fuel filter I have also checked to see if the hose from the tank is cracked or leaking and blown air through lines in case of blockage.
I have disconnected the the fuel line from the fuel pump and cranked it with good amount of fuel collected in a container. I have also changed the Fuel pump still the same issue. I have just remover the fuel pump again to check the lenght of the push rod it is 53/4 inch long, any help would be appreciate.
Thanks in advance
John