Messages

Thank you for your opinion. I agree with all of your comments. Grammar was like a fifth grader wrote it in a hurry. My first thought was if it smells like S..., it probably is. BBB-A++ rating ??  On to the next project with my Z/28.

Any stories to tell? Reputable?

Yes I I bought mine and had it recored using the original rails and tanks last month from a person in New York. His name is Mike Smith and a phone number of 607-206-0521. He is great to work with. He has a shop that does the recoring for him. I believe the new core was $250 and the recore using the original rails and tanks was $150. Thus $400 total. Hope this helps.

After logging in and going to:
Original Cars and Details
Amazing 69 Z/28 Survivor
None of the pictures are available to look at. The caption for all pictures says "Sorry this image is currently unavailable"?
Left click on this image box and the picture will open in photo bucket?

This issue just started and I use this post a lot for original verification of parts for my Z/28. Can anyone help a brother out on this one?

Getting ready to re-core my original CB/IH-C Harrison radiator. One of the rails has a small hole drilled in it near the center of the rail. In my haste to disassemble the radiator I did not notice this hole. Can someone tell me if the rail with the hole goes on the top or the bottom?

Thank You very much for the clarification. I meant the date 9D on the one I have. I thought it was possibly too late for a 94C built car.

What would be the correct dated 515 voltage regulator for my 04C 1969 Z28? Is 4D too early?

Just did this complete job on m 69 Z28 last week. I bled the master cylinder first by using the bleed ports on top of the master cylinder into a container. Took about 12 ounces of fluid to finally get all the air out of the master cylinder before going to the brakes. From there I bled all 4 wheels starting with the furthest away from the master cylinder. I used the 4 bleed rule and filled the half of the master cylinder back up after every 4th bleed as to not run the level too low. Sometimes it took 4-5 tries to get the fluid to start to come out of the bleed ports. Make sure who ever is pumping the brakes does not release the pedal until you have the port fully closed otherwise you will be sucking air into the system and chasing your tail. Last tip is to make sure the pedal is being fully depressed (to the floor) by who ever is pumping it. I had my wife doing it and after pulling the seat all the way forward things went a lot smoother from there.

Hope this helps

I have my 1969 Z28 master cylinder, booster, and hold valve being restored by Whitepost in Virginia. I sent them the entire unit bolted together just as I removed it. I forgot to measure the clevice rod length before I shipped it to them. Could anyone tell me the procedure for obtaining the proper clearance for the clevice to the brake pedal lower hole when I start to install it?.