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thanks for replying guys.

I am quite familiar with the wet application of decals. My question was geared towards, what type of decal do I have.

Turns out what I bought was stick-on that did not require wetting the door surface. I ended up cutting the decals into 3 pieces lengthwise and stuck them on in sections.

I have a few pictures on my website here that should help you out:

http://www.relicrecyclery.com/67CamaroConvRSSS/engine_transmission/1967_Camaro_RSSS_Conv_Engine_Trans.html

Hi peeps, long time no post.   I finished my 1967 RS/SS Conv project a few years ago and finally decided to put pace car decals on it as I suspect my car was one of those dealer replicas. That and I like the decals. Anyways, I bought a set from Camaro Central and it turns out that they are OER brand.  Probably doesn't matter.   So I need to determine if they are the kind that involves wetting the panel or if they are just the stick on type. When I peel the backer back they look stick on, but are they?   Would the wetted kind feel sticky?

Here are some pics. The backer reads "orajet"

I just ordered a 68 dealer trim book from ebay. once it is in I can let know know for sure. I have a 67 that came with a blue top.  I compared an original piece of material to the 1967 dealer trim book and it matched perfectly (picture below). I ordered a repo top and the blue was darker than original (also in the picture).

This first picture is of a 68 (not mine) that has what I believe to be and original blue top (though the car has 67 doors on it.) The second picture is of the comparison I stated above.

well, I got them on.  The trick was to deflate the tires.  I used a rubber mallet to get them started and then used a screwdriver and hammer to tap the outer clips down tight to the rim.  With the tires inflated they seem to stay on pretty good.  Perhaps this design may turn out better than the originals in regards to loosing your trim rings when driving down the road....

They are beautiful parts and are wrapped very well. I would need to get my hands on an original part to tell for sure, but they appear to be identical to the originals that I have pictures of.  If only I could get them to stay on.....

Yah, the clips on the repos are stainless steel and are definitely the issue being more rigid than the steel originals.  Sounds like the tire deflate trick might work me. I will give it a try and report back.

I would say that it is the tire sidewall.  The outer tabs can't seem to get around the lip of the rim. I was considering deflating the tires to get them on....

Has anyone tried the repo 4 clip 67 trim rings on 68 rally wheels?  I bought a repo set that looks great, but I just can't get them to go on.  I've tried bending the clips to get them to hug the lip of the wheel to no avail.

Attached are pictures of the repos and a picture of clip form an original 67.

I would also be interested in people's answer to this and would also like to know if there is one particular brand/type that doesn't require slamming the doors to get them to close tight. 

I bought a correct data coded 1108338 starter (7D6) for my 67 RS/SS Conv.  350 4spd, 621 bellhousing.  the snout for it has 2 bolt holes for mounting. 1 long 1 short.  I'm seeing pictures for 1108338's with 2 bolt and 3 bolt. my 350 block has 3 mounting holes. All I see the repo places sell are 2 long bolts for BB and 1 long/1 short for SB except 350 with no mention of 350.  Can anyone please show me what the correct starter housing is supposed to look like? and perhaps the hardware as well?

thanks
Chris
 
ebay examples below.  2 bolt version is from a vette

I have the article, but it help if I knew what my car's advance specs are originally supposed to be. 67 SS350 are not listed.

Wow $275!  I think I will not bite that bullet.

I think I need to understand this a little better. RockAuto lists a B26 for a 1967 350/295 , which starts 5-7 and all in at 11-13. B28 is 3-5 start and all in at 5.75-8. They are both 8 degree dist degree advance. What are the specs for a MC400-15? Isn't the "15" mean degrees of advance ?  I have the Lars Grimsrud article and this graph I found on this site.  I guess if I knew the start, stop and advance degree ratings for the 1968861 I can at least  understand why B28 is the better choice.

thanks for your help
Chris

I finally got my hands on the correct date coded 1111168 distributor for my 67 RS/SS 350 Conv 4spd manual trans convertible project.  The vacuum advance is no good (horribly rusted).  It is an MS400-15 stamped unit, which I believe is correct for my application based on forum searches. I am having trouble trying to locate a functional replacement for it.  I don't even know the original  GM part number for it. Forum searches don't seam to yield enough info.  Any hep would be appreciated.
thanks
Chris

Ok, I'll buy that as my 69 Firebird Conv also has the ones on the left.  That doesn't really explain how I ended up with 6 of the other ones on my 67 Camaro.

I seem to recall that when I restored my 69 Firebird 20+ years ago that the screws in the back bottom corners obscured by the seats where different than the others. more like the ones on the right.  Of course I replaced all of the screws back then, so no hopes of verifying my memory in that regard.

The picture below indicates the area that I am referring to. 

Thanks for your replies to my post.
-Chris