Orphaned block 19N571318

[1968RSZ28]

Jerry MacNeish has stated in another CRG thread that the original engine adds "about a 33% increase in value on the car"

Paul

[x77-69z28]

A having the original block in his car would add $15,000 to the price of his car! If he wouldn't  go for 1500 for his block, tell him to change his medication and put it in your car. He probably wants you to deliver it too! The nerve of some people's children!

[z28z11]

Thanks for the input so far - keep it going.

In all fairness, I should add a couple of concerns that the owner has about this block - 1) It's .060 over. No ridge in the bores, but some surface rusting (not pitted, but probably should be derusted, then honed). Pretty sure it will clean up without a problem. It was like this when I got it, been covered/garaged since I had it, but since I thought it was a standard bore for years, I was going to bore it .030 and use the L2242 pistons I had bought for it to assemble. He's afraid he'll have to sleeve all of the cylinders, or it won't be usable (like my 500 lb. boat anchor/Protect-O-Plate). 2) Initial disbelief that it is his legitimate block. My answer back - "why would I restamp a block with a random number, or any number different from my VIN ?". No answer from that question, but his interest remains.

If this deal was reversed, I have the opposite opinion - usable or not, it is the original block - that only happens once, long ago. There sure are a bunch of non-matching-numbered cars out there.
BTW - my engine is stamped as you see it (pic), his is 12/15. About a month difference in build dates (1st week December to possible 1st-2nd week in January).

Regards,
Steve   

[TooManyReels]

Steve, I would sit on the block and keep looking for a closer build date block until you are ready to build the motor.  Then make your decision to be the better man or use the block for yourself. No one would argue that you should give the block away. I'm thinking the real reason the guy is not jumping on the block is because its .060 over. For some reason, this has always been a turn off when buying a car or motor when the motor is bored .060..

MTCW - If it was the original block for my car, I would buy the block take photos of the pad, get it notarized and then sleeve it, and deck it and restamp it.. So what if you spent $3,000 grand on the block, it would be the original one.

TMR
Eddie

[x77-69z28]

It is a big block, there is plenty of meat on that block. A big block could go .100 over with no problem. iTIS HIS ORIGINAL BLOCK!!!!!

[firstgenaddict]

Personally, I find it difficult to believe anyone would turn down the opportunity to purchase their original block, especially for a solid lifter car... however a friend with a 68 Z28 had the same thing happen when he contacted the owner of the car for which he had the Original MO. Unfortunately many of these will never be reunited.

[KurtS]

What is wrong with your block?

[z28z11]

Horsepower - too much of it. According to a past owner, the car was a drag car for some period of time - evidently while under a moderate level of rpm, it launched a piston through the cylinder wall (I suspect the rod was the culprit) into the lifter valley. Bad enough, but at least it went to the inside rather than the outside. Deck surface is still intact, but I don't think it's repairable. I guess it's possible to sleeve it, and patch the inside of the block, but I agree with the guy that owned the car before me - considering the fact it came with a "spare" block, it's much cheaper (and more reliable) to build another block to use as a driver, and keep the original as what it is - a 500 pound Protect-O-Plate. Not something you can leave in the glovebox, but pretty effective for documentation. I'll try to get a pic of the damage posted today - maybe someone has a better opinion of it (recovery or paperweight).

Regards,
Steve

[z28z11]

(Reply to Kurt's question of what's wrong with my original block)

Happy Halloween - here's some stills from my latest horror classic -

Explanation - #4 cylinder breezeway. Note the details of: nice view of the #6 cylinder wall internally, the lifters still stuck in their respective bores, the new trapdoor from the lifter valley into the water jacket, the remaining half of the cam still jammed in the cam bore, with lifters still in place. One heck of an explosion - must haver been running something mixed in with the premium gas, like nitro. Either that, or the cylinder hydrauliced. Bet the driver was mildly surprised, especially if the intake came off of it a couple of inches.

Amazing fact - as bad as the destruction is/was, somebody was smart enough to keep the block with the car -

Sympathy donations accepted !

Regards,
Steve

[jdv69z]

Looks like connecting rod failure. Seen a 396 one years ago after drag race rod failure. Rod bent like pretzel.  One piston frozen in place. Block becomes shrapnel. When it happens, it literally is an explosion.

Jimmy V.

[Kelley W King]

Looks like that F motor I raced in the 70,s. Cam broke and dropped a piece down on the crank. I pulled a head and all looks good till I pushed on a piston. It fell into oilpan. Funny thing was it made no noise or anything just cut off at high RPM.

[firstgenaddict]

I'm sure it could be fixed, even though it is awfully beat up. If the car isn't driven too hard the block would most likely have no problems.

[70L34]

Just my $.02, but $1500 for the orig block is a GIFT to the owner of the car.

[z28z11]

Thanks for the $0.02 - that's pretty much how I feel.

The owner's offer is pretty low - I'll keep and build it myself. I'm certainly not afraid of .060 over, seeing as I don't intention Banzai 7000 rpm launches or street racing - old age finally taught me the errors of youth and hormones. I prefer the sound of an idling solid lifter big block than a 10,000 rpm imported FWD sewing machine.

Regards,
Steve