Two piece brake rotor replacement.

[Paul68RS/Z28]

ED, Did all of the Camaros come from the plant riveted? I've seen plenty of Corvettes riveted, not Camaros.

[bertfam]

ED, Did all of the Camaros come from the plant riveted? I've seen plenty of Corvettes riveted, not Camaros.

I can't positively say, but I've sure spent a LOT of time drilling out rivets over the years!! John or one of the other guys might know so I'll ask.

Ed

[bertfam]

Well, apparently I was incorrect in my statement. John, Jerry, William and Jon all stated that the riveted hub wasn't used on the Camaro. Apologies to all...

Ed

[vtfb68]

Anybody else have dark green paint dabs on their hubs?
  VT

[DAVEN1256]

First off, thanks to all that responded and all the comments and ideas.

I guess right now, no one is making just the rotor part of the original two piece hub / rotor assembly for a '68 with a four piston caliper. I believe I will get a one piece replacement for now but hang on to my originals in case just the rotor part becomes available in the future. The reproduction two piece assemblies are a little more than I can put into the brakes right now.

I have read where the orignial two part assemblies were balanced at the factory by drilling holes in them. I am attaching a picture of one of my originals. One of them has five holes drilled in it and the other has none.........Even if just the rotor part becomes available in the future, I don't know where you would go to have this kind of balancing done.

All that being said, can any one recomend a good one piece replacement. I see them all over the place from very cheap to very expensive.

Thanks..........Dave

[bertfam]

Dave, the 5100 works fine. Just be forewarned that you may have to get a couple of them before you find two that don't interfere with the caliper. You can also try the 5514 since that's the number AutoZone shows. O'Reily shows the BrakeBest 5100RGS and AutoZone shows the Duralast 5514, so maybe they've changed the hub a little on the 5514 to make it fit. I don't know.

However, do you still have enough meat to turn your originals? The "official" specs are .965" minimum but lots of folks have run them with up to (or as little as) .935" to .940".

Ed

[Dusk Blue Z]

Just one of the original rotors on my car was drilled. The other had this paint mark on it. A local electric motor repair shop should be able to balance your rotors if needed.

Mike

[JKZ27]

A few years ago I bought a front disc conversion kit (OE style 4 piston) for my 68 and it came with one piece rotors. The rotors had a small groove cut in them to allow for the caliper clearence. They came in unmarked boxes so I don't know the brand.

John

[Mike S]

 I seriously doubt it was balanced as a complete unit. It makes more sense in mass production to balance the components separately and assemble later using the individual cores so there is no need to have a match pair. If it were that critical then I would think there would be an index mark in case you have to unbolt the sections for things like changing a broken stud and putting it back together in the correct position. Even then, a replacement stud may not be the same weight so there goes the balance if it were ever replaced and the unit was balanced as a whole.

Mike

[DAVEN1256]

When I read that about the factory balancing, the person that wrote it said that they saw that in the "68 Chassis Service Manual. I don't have one of those. If someone does, it would be interesting to see what it says.

[DAVEN1256]

Dave, the 5100 works fine. Just be forewarned that you may have to get a couple of them before you find two that don't interfere with the caliper. You can also try the 5514 since that's the number AutoZone shows. O'Reily shows the BrakeBest 5100RGS and AutoZone shows the Duralast 5514, so maybe they've changed the hub a little on the 5514 to make it fit. I don't know.

However, do you still have enough meat to turn your originals? The "official" specs are .965" minimum but lots of folks have run them with up to (or as little as) .935" to .940".

Ed

I measured my rotors and they measure out at .950 and .955 inches. Would a shop turn them if they are already past the minimum?

I removed the bolts connecting my original hub to the rotor before I realized I would go with a one piece replacement. I tried to separate the rotor and hub with no success. I can't say I tried real hard for fear of damaging them. If they ever did make just the rotor part and I wanted to use my original hub, what's the best way to separate the hub from the rotor? I am assume they are rusted together.

[bertfam]

I measured my rotors and they measure out at .950 and .955 inches. Would a shop turn them if they are already past the minimum?

That's a good question. You might want to call around and see what they can do for you.

I am assume they are rusted together.

More than likely. Once you remove the 5 bolts, they should just pull apart.

Ed

[Mike S]

  A (reputable) machine shop won't turn them if they are past the minimum for risk of liability.

Mike

[Paul68RS/Z28]

You may need to put some heat to them while using a press, with light pressure, it shouldn't take too much. Also soak them in penetrating fluid.

If you explain that your trying to turn the rotors to keep the car original "for shows" you may get someone to turn them. Like Mike said, most shops don't want to expose themselves to the liability. Really, if your thinking about using them on a driver, I wouldn't turn them below mins, just replace them, not worth the risk of failure and possible liability, God forbid, you injured someone due to bad rotors.

[DAVEN1256]

I agree about going below the minimum. This car will be a fair weather driver and I hope to drive it a lot. I am going to get a one piece replacement for now. I will keep my originals tucked away.