1968 rs/ss decode help

[1968 rs/ss]

hi all i am hoping you can help me
i recently purchased a seqouia green 1968 rs/ss camaro small block
i am fairly sure it is an rs but ss ?
here is the trim tag any info would be gratefully app
if this cant help is there anyway to identify as as ss


01C    K404ST
68-12437 LOS 24995TR
712 V-V Paint

[tmodel66]

The  trim tag will not tell if RS or SS. Does it have original motor? If so what is stamped on the engine pad ?      Without documents no way to tell for sure but a few clues are;
Plate welded on the frame rail in left rear wheel well for dual exhaust
2 fuel lines for Q-jet carburetor
12 bolt rear end
under hood insulation
hole to the right side of steering column for speedometer cable for Muncie
There are more clues but this will get you started. Check this and look for the engine stamp and get back with that info.
 

[vtfb68]

If it's a original car check to make sure the motor, trans, rear end numbers match your VIN numbers, Only  350, 396 motors came in 68 SS's.
 Explore this sight, Almost everything you would want to know is already here.  Good luck, 68 RS/SS camaros are the best!
  VT

[bertfam]

A few corrections if I may...

1. Plate welded on the frame rail in left rear wheel well for dual exhaust. That's a 69 only thing. 68's used Rivnuts and even that isn't a deciding factor since dual exhaust was an option on other engines as well.

2. 2 fuel lines for Q-jet carburetor. Again, that's a 69 only thing. All 68's had a single fuel line.

3. 12 bolt rear end. Not a deciding factor. The L30/M20 also had a 12 bolt.

4. under hood insulation. Again, not a deciding factor. Z87 custom interior cars also came with the hood insulation.

The only way to verify a 68 SS is with paperwork or original engine. Post a picture of the engine pad and that will tell you if it's an SS or not.

Ed

[1968RSZ28]

Other '68 SS clues are listed here...  http://www.camaros.org/diffs68.shtml

Paul

[tmodel66]

Dang Ed hope you didn't pass out from all the blood loss in that "red" post. LOL

[bertfam]

I did hemorrhage a little!! But I rubbed some dirt on it and I'm okay now.

(Man, I CAN'T wait for football to start up again.)

Ed

[1968 rs/ss]

thanks for your help guys unfortunately the original motor is long gone so any more clues or hints would be app

thanks    glenn

[bertfam]

In that case Glenn, you're kind of stuck. The only other real indicator is the speedometer hole to the right side of steering column for the Muncie transmission. HERE'S a picture showing the Muncie and non-Muncie holes, but if you have an automatic, this won't help.

What's the VIN? I'll look in the database and see if there's anything on the car.

Ed

[vtfb68]

Bummer drag Glenn, Only a hint but Check your hood for the run number, it should be before your build date and a 68.
   VT

[1968 rs/ss]

the   no are  12437832587   i guess what sux is i live 14000 miles away from you guys (aussie) the gentleman who i bought it of lives in san jose
the car has multileaf rear springs   12 bolt posi   muncie  discbrakes proportioningvalve on the left hand side of the frame and he swore on his mother that it was a true rs/ss i paid 16500 for the car at that time our dollar only bought 69 of yours so you see it owes me a bit of money nearly 30grand landed back here   i ues i should have some one look at it for me but i was only there for thee days saw the add in hemmings 10 orso phone calls book the ticket and i was of to buy my dream car now it looks like its turned to shit pardon my english getting a little peaved of at the moment    thanks guys for your help though i do appreciate it      glenn

[1968 rs/ss]

forgot to mention no hole in the firewall as per pic   the dream is coming to a very rapid end

[bertfam]

Glenn, check your VIN again. 12437832587 should be 124378N, but you're also missing a digit at the end. 32587 should have 6 numbers.

Ed

[1968 rs/ss]

will do right now

[1968 rs/ss]

here we go  124378L325887