How to assemble oil line to block fitting?

[1967RS/SS]

I am sure this is a no brainer, but I cant seem to figure it out. 

Does the small brass sleeve get inserted into nut then both go into the coupling, then into the block? 

Then,

How does the oil line assemble into the block fitting?  Do I need to cut the sleeve that is attached to the line and insert that into the loose brass sleeve? 

[Petes L48]

You have an extra nut and sleeve.  They usually include one set with the male fitting, and then both sets with the line when bought separately.  First put the male fitting in the block.  Personally I'd next just take the nut and sleeve off one end of the line (leave the small insert inside the line) and use the sleeve and nut that came with the male fitting for that engine side of the line (just in case there is some small variances).  Or you could also just remove the nut from the male fitting and use what is already on the line if they appear same as what came with the male fitting.  Run the other end thru the firewall to your gauge.  Can't remember if you have to remove nut or compression sleeve to get it thru the firewall grommet, or if the grommet is split.  See AIM UPC U17, sheets A3 and A4.  It says to coil any extra length inside the console.  Others will chime in if I missed anything.  I'd also ensure the line is good and clear before installing, and fully seated into the fittings before tightening the nuts.

[1967RS/SS]

You have an extra nut and sleeve.

That makes more sense.

You recommend Teflon on the threads?

  Thanks for all the help!

[tmodel66]

I don't use Teflon on brass fittings. Besides the compression is what makes the seal not the threads.

[1967RS/SS]

I don't use Teflon on brass fittings. Besides the compression is what makes the seal not the threads.

Got it.  Thanks

[Mike S]

Do you still have the original reusable brass fitting with the male insert? I'd use that to keep it original.
If you do then you will have to expand it again to allow the new line (plus male insert) to slide into the compression head. I used a tapered nail punch to spread the fitting.

Mike

[jeff68]

Be aware that the fittings on the repro line are different than the fittings on the original line.  It still puzzles me how people get the repro lines to seal when the taper is supposed to make the seal against the gauge (or block adapter).
Here is a repro (top) versus a NOS GM line:

[1967RS/SS]

Do you still have the original reusable brass fitting with the male insert?

Wish I did Mike, wish I did.  Especially after looking at the differences between the NOS vs repro lines.


Thanks

[1967RS/SS]

Is any one able to tell me if the line and fittings need two of the small barrel sleeves (one on each end)?  My block fitting came with only one of these sleeves. If only one is needed what side does it go on (block or gauge)? 

[JohnZ]

Is any one able to tell me if the line and fittings need two of the small barrel sleeves (one on each end)?  My block fitting came with only one of these sleeves. If only one is needed what side does it go on (block or gauge)? 

If you're talking about the tiny brass sleeve that goes inside the end of the nylon line, you need one at each end; that's what keeps the line from collapsing when you tighten the fitting.

[Petes L48]

Is any one able to tell me if the line and fittings need two of the small barrel sleeves (one on each end)?  My block fitting came with only one of these sleeves. If only one is needed what side does it go on (block or gauge)? 

I believe you do need the "barrel" piece with the splits shown above, that slides up the tubing at both ends.  That's where you get the compression.  However, I've never had mine apart at the gauge.  Check UPC U17 in the AIM, it might show that level of detail.  If you only have one, check your gauge.  Someone may have placed it inside the nut for safekeeping, and then screwed the nut back onto the nipple on the rear of the gauge. 

[1967RS/SS]

If you're talking about the tiny brass sleeve that goes inside the end of the nylon line, you need one at each end; that's what keeps the line from collapsing when you tighten the fitting.

Ok, that's what I was afraid of. I only received one sleeve so I need to track down one more.  Thank you JohnZ

[1967RS/SS]

Is any one able to tell me if the line and fittings need two of the small barrel sleeves (one on each end)?  My block fitting came with only one of these sleeves. If only one is needed what side does it go on (block or gauge)? 

I believe you do need the "barrel" piece with the splits shown above, that slides up the tubing at both ends.  That's where you get the compression.  However, I've never had mine apart at the gauge.  Check UPC U17 in the AIM, it might show that level of detail.  If you only have one, check your gauge.  Someone may have placed it inside the nut for safekeeping, and then screwed the nut back onto the nipple on the rear of the gauge. 

this is one solid piece with no splits (tiny barrel sleeve in pic)

[rszmjt]

this is one solid piece with no splits (tiny barrel sleeve in pic)


[/quote]

That ferrule might be OK in that fitting against the block but Good Luck getting that one to seal in the factory gauge end, I saw a non stock type ferrule like that 1 leak years ago and it messed up the carpets big time.  Also the Camaro repo line kit has the splits backward as noted above, I tried to use 1 a few years ago and couldnt get it to seal.

 FWIW at the gauge I use a Corvette repo line, it has the "Correct" type GM production sleeve and "split" ferrules.  Line kit with "CORRECT" ferrules is $9.95 from Corvette Central.

I also usually wad up a small "high absorbent towel" and place it in the consol under the gauge just in case.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000050g~Z5Z5Z514476~P9.95~~~~S3QH0P4VAX96512229824Q~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000050G

[1967RS/SS]

Thanks rszmjt, but now a question about that Corvette Central line.  Is that line long enough to reach from the console gauge through the firewall grommet to the engine block?