1969 Hood Hinge Color

[MarkB]

My wife and I are restoring my 1969 camaro.  We would like to use the correct color for the hood hinges.  We purchased OER paint, dark grey phosphate.  This looks a little dark.  Would someone know if there is a correct paint for the hinges?
Thanks
MarkB

[69Z28-RS]

I think light phosphate gray would be better, if you have to paint it.    A better alternative might be to actually 'phosphate' it;..  Check out Palmetto Enterprises for their phosphate solution.   Besides the solution, I had to purchase some Stainless steel pots (large enough for the parts you intend to phosphate), and a hot plate and thermometer.. (and lots of WD40 for neutralizing after the coating process)..   It works great for the fasteners after you've cleaned and derusted them.. 
"Metal Rescue', or 'Evaporust'' works good for removing rust (non-destructively for everything else like paint, rubber, etc)...

PS.  I remember fondly when my wife used to help me in the garage..     

Gary

[Mike S]

 If you don't feel like treating your own metal parts, I would recommend http://www.brakeboosters.com/services.htm
as an alternative.

Mike

[tmodel66]

X 2 on brakeboosters for your plating. They did my hood hinges, jack mast, brake booster, backing plates and caliper brackets. Everything looks great.

[68rs327conv]

Don't forget Jerry M at Camaro High Performance.  I used palmetto to plate the small stuff myself and had Jerry do the large items like hood hinges.

http://www.z28camaro.com/

Mike

[Petes L48]

Another thing to consider.  The phosphating is easy to do, but you need to have the parts clean and rust-free.  They recommend media blasting before dipping in the hot solution.  You also need a pretty big non-ferrous solution vessel to do hood hinges.

[68camaroz28]

Mark, many of us use Palmetto phosphate concentrate and its fairly easy but the hood hinges due to size are a little more than many of us want to handle. I recommend having them done by one of the two already mentioned. Do yourself some favors and complete searches on the phosphate process as I'm sure it would come in handy for your restoration. A glass beader is most important for the prep work.
Good luck and even more important, welcome aboard!

[LM69Z28]

Lets not forget that a "raw" phosphated hinges, springs or latch's etc will get surface rust on them "almost" overnight if its exposed to ANY type of moisture. (Refer to Jerry's book page 203) There are many products out there that should be used to protect these parts after being finished. You don't  want to pull them off ever year or so to redo them unless that's your "thing" Think about aligning the hood every year.......... no thanks! My solution to this since our Z lives  at the beach in So California was several coats of Testors rattle can clear semi gloss lacquer.  Then baked in the oven at 200 degrees. They look great and very correct with a nice medium gray finish!
My 2 cents
good luck
LM69Z28

[Stingr69]

Cast Iron Gray "Cast Blast" is a good option for a driver IMO.

-Mark.

[Sauron327]

If using Castblast, the hinges should be epoxied first. The aerosol paint is cheap and offers poor long term corrosion protection.

[Charley]

Try the Palmetto stuff. It is really easy and you can find big enough stainless pots probably at Walmart etc and do it on a outdoor bar-b-que. It really is easy.

[Petes L48]

If you can find some of those stainless cafeteria steamer pans for cheap, they work great on a propane turkey fryer.  Speaking of turkey, those disposable aluminum oval pans in the supermarket might also work if you have some support on the bottom.  You'd have to check and see if a hinge would fit though.  I think the only thing you can't use is iron or steel.     

[MarkB]

Thanks everyone for your responses.  I would like to stay away from the phosphate process because of the rust problems.
The hinges have been bead blasted and epoxy primed.
We tried the OER light gray phosphate and there is no difference between the dark and the light on a primed metal sample.
I was looking for a paint brand that someone has used successfully.
MarkB

[Mike S]

 On my restored convertable the hinges along with other parts that were originally phosphated were done in 1987 and still look great today. The trick it to use an oil that goes on wet and dries to the touch. I do this once a year using an artist brush on those parts and never had rust problems. If you use paint then any parts of the hinge rub will wear off quickly and that area will stand out visually.
Just something to consider.

Mike

[67L78]

I phosphated my hinges and related parts in 95 and they still look good. i apply with a small artist brush gun oil. It will attract dust which will build up but all i do is once and while wash the parts off with hot soapy water and reapply the gun oil. You can use any kind of light grade oil as long as it is clear.If you know someone that has a tig welder you can buy a piece of sheet stainless steel and make your own pan.

Whitecoupe