Judges: Question on SS stripe w/base coat clear coat

[Mike S]

Judges: I'm going to repaint my 67 convertable that was restored in '88. Back then I sprayed it with DuPont Lucite acrylic lacquer.
The nose bumblebee stripe was sprayed over the base coat color as done at the factory so there was a very definite edge seen and felt.
Being that type of paint is obsolete now, I'm going with a base coat/clear coat finish this time.
 My question is would there be a point hit if the stripe was under the clear coat instead of over it? There will likely be an edge still but not as defined.

Thank you,
Mike

[68Zproject]

Yes.  Search on here under Jerry M. and that was his answer.

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=4113.0

[Mike S]

 Stripe on top.....that answers that!
I did a search before asking the question but I didn't see this informative thread you posted.


Thank you,
Mike

[lakeholme]

Mike,
I had mine painted a few years ago BC/CC. What Jerry says can be achieved with a definite edge.
Generally, it's harder to achieve an original paint color/texture look.

[Mike S]

Hi Phillip,

  I'll do my best to get close to the original look in texture, if it can be done. Fortunately the base color is butternut yellow so I have a lot more leaway than a darker color for texture.
I did the car show scene a lot back in the late 80's early 90's. I sort of 'peaked' with that scene so now it's time to enjoy the car more for what it was built for, driving ( gas prices permitting  ). So it will be less of a garage queen but I do want to show it a few times.

Thanks,
Mike

[lakeholme]

My 68 is butternut yellow.  BC/CC painting of butternut usually does not turn out as pale (or should I say "faded-looking") as the original.  It tends more toward 69 Daytona yellow, just not as bright.  Yes, is gives you more leeway than a darker color.

I'm with you on driving the car! I judge trailer queens all the time. Have owned a few through the years.  I love to look at them but would rather drive them. AACA has just started a new "badge program" for people who really drive their cars.  It actually encourages getting the cars out on the road, not just touring or showing.

Good luck on the paint job.  Post us a picture when you are done. Love that butternut!

[Oaklyss]

Lacquer is still availible! only paint it in lacquer, the way it was done from the factory. Very easy to repair also. 2-stage requiers a whole panal to be painted, Lacquer can be spot painted and blended.
Lacquer will last a very long time, the way we take care of our cars now days, and has the right look. 2-stage does not look right. My 43 year old lacquer paint looks great.

[tmodel66]

Lacquer is still availible! only paint it in lacquer, the way it was done from the factory. Very easy to repair also. 2-stage requiers a whole panal to be painted, Lacquer can be spot painted and blended.
Lacquer will last a very long time, the way we take care of our cars now days, and has the right look. 2-stage does not look right. My 43 year old lacquer paint looks great.

Yes you can spot paint/blend  BC/CC without having to paint a whole panel. I'm not here to argue or start anything just didn't want any confusion.

[68camaroz28]

Unfortuantely, lacquer paint jobs of 43 years ago are not what you will find in lacquer today. And repairing lacquer might be a huge issue down the road if you cannot obtain the paint? Agree Lacquer has advantages like anything, but it also has many disadvantages. On our 68Z in-process restoration we used base coat/clear coat (butternut yellow) but when the stripes are applied they wiill not be clear coated.

[Sauron327]

If you want to use BC/CC just shoot the stripe with S.S. on top of the CC afterwards. For the main body color you can also use SS and either mix it with clear for the last coats, or clear the SS for a deeper look. Naturally this is not original. And the lacquer you buy today is not the same as years ago and not as good. Clearing SS provide greater UV protection than uncleared SS. Using SS as it pertains to solids, not metallics.

BC/CC can be blended. When saying the whole panel has to be painted that only pertains to the clear, only the base gets blended. Jobs that are done and the clear blended using a blending agent don't last. Some guys cheat and blend a sail panel but the correct way is to go over the top and down the other side with the CC.

Note 2 systems are mentioned: BC/CC and SS with optional clear.

[Mike S]

 This is an interesting exchange of ideas and comments and I do appreciate it.
The stripe will go on top no matter which system I choose.
I'm leaning towards the PPG DBC BB/CC system though I didn't rule out the acrylic enamel.
 I got over the sticker shock for paint.    The last time I bought a gal of butternut yellow by DuPont it costs under $100.
Now the gal of DBC is going to cost $337 locally.
   I finished running larger pipes in the garage and installed a larger compressor with a 60 gal tank to support HVLP.
Now all I need are for the temps to get above 60 here on Long Island.

Mike

[Sauron327]

I didn't rule out the acrylic enamel.
 I got over the sticker shock for paint.    The last time I bought a gal of butternut yellow by DuPont it costs under $100.
Now the gal of BDC is going to cost $337 locally.
  

When referring to SS it's not enamel, it's PPG DCC Concept for instance. That's cheap for paint. Some of the colors I shoot are over $1200 per gallon of basecoat.