Help and advice prior to purchase?

[mickeystoys69RSSS]

Thanks Marty.

I don't know what happened in the photos. Not sure if it was my LED flash light or the camera being too close to focus, or both. But like I said in person the numbers matched and looked exactly like yours. I feel confident that the car is authentic numbers wise. At least I do not think that issue is in question.

However, after having the opportunity to see the car on a lift and then drive. I am wondering if the car is going to need some mechanical work in the near future. The underside of the car had 40+ years of oil, grease, and road grime with oil leaking down the back side of the pan. This would indicate to me at least a tear down of the engine to the short block for full gasket replacements. During the test drive (It did run and drive) but it felt sluggish and loose. When I got into the go pedal it bogged and just did not pull at all again indicating a need of an engine rebuild. I did not have the tools to do a compression test and or leak down. As for the loose part either the steering needs to be adjusted or rebuilt or it is time for new ball joints, shocks, springs etc.. Still not a deal killer but the seller is asking in what my opinion would be a car that needs no work at all.

Maybe I could ask the consignor if they could get a better picture? Anyway like I said earlier in person the engine pad looks good so at least I am 99% confident that the car is authentic just in need of some TLC under the hood. With that information in mind, what would be your opinion on the value of the car? I am trying to decide where it is priced.

Like I said earlier is there anyone in FL that would be interested in checking it out it would be a great help.

[mickeystoys69RSSS]

PS I thought you guys might get a laugh at me trying to photograph the VIN location on the TH400 with the car on a lift.  I had the camera all the way on the bottom side of the floor pan looking down on the top of the trans pan mounting flange trying to get the camera far enough away to focus.

[mickeystoys69RSSS]

As far as I can tell the TH400 looks promising as well. Just need a date?


Sure hope it all pans out. That is one heck of a car. Only ~2000 ’69 L34’s built!

Engine:  T 08 21 JI 
            T= Tonawanda Engine Plant                               
       0821= Aug 21
           JI= L34

Axle: BI 11 15 G 1
       BI= 2.73 Ratio
   1115=  Nov. 15
        G= Detroit Gear & Axle Plant
        1=  Shift 1

That is the same info that I got. I was hoping for a lower gear ratio with posi, but it is what it is.                                                                                             
                                                                                               

My understanding based on the information in the CRG is the 69 and 316 on the trans tag is a Julian calendar date. I do not know what this means, maybe some here can decode that for me?


One of 2000 Hmmmm maybe I should just go get it now

Engine and axle number are the same as I got. The I in front of the JI threw me at first until I read that the date codes used I and 1 interchangably.

[IZRSSS]

Mickey – If this is a true L34, 40+ year old hiccups are exactly that…hiccups. Some people would give their left you know what to have that problem…an engine in a car like that, that hasn’t been fooled with. On the other hand, if it’s a clone or a mod, then you have every right to question mechanical issues.

I will help you out as much as I can with my opinion on the numbers. But in order to do so, I need something to go on. Sorry…but none of your pics helped. Don’t feel bad though, it took me 45 to 50 pics until I finally got what I needed from my own engine pad & tranny. It would help if you can download your pics on the spot to see how you did. I wasn’t kidding when I said you need to jack the car up and play with the light. If this isn’t possible, then simply do what Sauron327 suggested and hire someone to give you a priliminary evaluation. I was hoping the car was in CRG’s data base. If it is, I think someone would have already mentioned it and you would have known first hand if there were any issues with the car.

Sorry, price is something I stay away from. Once the preliminary evaluation has been done, turn it over to someone like Jerry M. This can save you tons of heart aches. Jerry can tell you what the car is worth in its present condition and what it would be worth if it’s completely refurbished. And, more importantly, he’ll darn sure let you know if all of us came up short in our evaluation. If it’s a keeper, you are now armed to negotiate with the seller. Do yourself a huge favor...do not buy this car unless you have it professionally authenticated. Your last comment is what gets guys in trouble.  

[mickeystoys69RSSS]

Thanks Marty. I found out my camera was set for far away shots not close up  , but I do not know if another trip is possible. I have to return to work tomorrow, so I am hoping the consignor can send me a clear photo. I have not heard back from Jerry yet.

[tmodel66]

An August engine in a November car is not good IMO. Too early I think.

[IZRSSS]

An August engine in a November car is not good IMO. Too early I think.

That was my first thought also, but not unheard of...another reason to get a clear pic of the pad.

The engine assembly date must always be before the vehicle (not body) assembly date. The engine assembly date almost always is before the Fisher Body cowl tag date. In the unusual case it is later (since the Fisher Body calendar does not always line up with the normal calendar), it should be within a week of the body. Most engine assembly dates are less than 30 days before the vehicle build. Some engine assembly dates can be 30-90 days before vehicle build with the odd exception being >90 days.

[tmodel66]

An August engine in a November car is not good IMO. Too early I think.

That was my first thought also, but not unheard of...another reason to get a clear pic of the pad.

The engine assembly date must always be before the vehicle (not body) assembly date. The engine assembly date almost always is before the Fisher Body cowl tag date. In the unusual case it is later (since the Fisher Body calendar does not always line up with the normal calendar), it should be within a week of the body. Most engine assembly dates are less than 30 days before the vehicle build. Some engine assembly dates can be 30-90 days before vehicle build with the odd exception being >90 days.

Yeah that's all I'm saying. It's out of the "norm". This car was built well into the mfg. year, it's a Norwood car and it's a Tonawanda engine where shipping would not play into it.

[IZRSSS]

Good point but KIM, No X Code...68 build.

[mickeystoys69RSSS]

I would think that would be the case with cars that had higher production numbers that the dates would be closer together. But could it be possible as you said earlier Marty that only 2000 of the L34 options were produced. As a result could the engine build date be earlier waiting for the order/body to go to assembly?

[tmodel66]

It's been discussed here before. There was no "body banks". Orders were built as received with the odd exception of parts shortage. The JL8 rear end comes to mind but again that's an odd part. I think it was Pontiac (not sure) that had body banks but to my understanding Chevrolet didn't use them.

[jdv69z]

Just a head's up:  Rear spoiler should be short 68 type. It appears to be later 69 type. Don't know if that means anything; perhaps added later?

Jimmy V.

[IZRSSS]

Exactly...finding out if the drivetrain is original is just half the fun. Then comes all other compenents including; nuts, bolts, washers, finishes, and on and on and on... you have no idea what your getting yourself into Mickey. But I must say...its a blast once you know you have something to work with! If your in to that sort of thing...numbers matching.

[mickeystoys69RSSS]

It has certainly been fun so far. It is like being a detective try to find facts and figures, what is right and what is not. Then if your reseach is correct then it is llike finding a treasure. I am an engineer by trade, so a technical subject such as this suits my personality.

I already know there is an added aftermarket A/C that is ok it is much needed here in FL to take it out for a drive in the middle of summer. That is ok because I know. I just want to know what the car is and what it is not.

I certainly hope it is one of the original L34's

In addition if the car is in fact authentic, the other half of the fun is doing the work bringing it back to life.

[IZRSSS]

This car also appears to be heavily optioned. From what I can see by the pics...clock, rosewood steering wheel, gauge pkg, delux interior, rs/ss pkg, vinyl top, and what really catches my eyes are the SS wheels and the AM/FM radio (I think its amfm). It will be interesting to see if these are all original components.

What else am I missing?

Here's the list of all the options, price, and how many were produced...http://www.camaros.org/pdf/options.pdf

If everything checks out you might have to dig pretty deep.