Color quandary

[IZRSSS]

These are the color samples I am choosing from

the center is Burnished Brown stock

Scott - The color chip from GM looks like the pic in the upper left hand corner. The center pic looks closer to paint code 77, Antique Gold Met. It seems like you are looking for something in between. Here is a color chart just in case your painter can use it. Even though the chip pics are poor quality maybe your painter can use them for referencing Lucite Stock #'s or Dulux Code #'s.

...use the slide bar for the bottom pic.

[ScottJon]

These are the color samples I am choosing from

the center is Burnished Brown stock

Scott - The color chip from GM looks like the pic in the upper left hand corner. The center pic looks closer to paint code 77, Antique Gold Met. It seems like you are looking for something in between. Here is a color chart just in case your painter can use it. Even though the chip pics are poor quality maybe your painter can use them for referencing Lucite Stock #'s or Dulux Code #'s.

...use the slide bar for the bottom pic.

This is really super of you Marty, i can see the metallic in the lower picture. this is very helpful

[OG69Z]

Just my opinion don't add anything. This paint has enough metallic to jump off the car when it's out in the sun. Pictures don't really do justice for this color.

  I agree also. Scott I'm sure you will be more than pleased with the results. A quality paint with a quality application will make that Burnished Brown really pop. Budget in for color sanding and maybe bury the stripes under the clear and it will be a standout.
    You can't go wrong financially with a factory "look" paint job. The car will retain its value for the purists. Really, does any Z/28 need anything out of the ordinary to make a statement?
     Bob

[ScottJon]

Just my opinion don't add anything. This paint has enough metallic to jump off the car when it's out in the sun. Pictures don't really do justice for this color.

  I agree also. Scott I'm sure you will be more than pleased with the results. A quality paint with a quality application will make that Burnished Brown really pop. Budget in for color sanding and maybe bury the stripes under the clear and it will be a standout.
    You can't go wrong financially with a factory "look" paint job. The car will retain its value for the purists. Really, does any Z/28 need anything out of the ordinary to make a statement?
     Bob

I am SO glad I asked this question to the group.

my wife, daughter and I discussed it after reading all of your comments and we are going to paint it bone stock PPG Burnished Brown, Dover White stripes, color sanded, stripes under the clear with no pearl in the clear.

you guys are such an awesome group of enthusiasts

Thanks Again

[1968RSZ28]

Scott,

I'm glad you're keeping it original.  Check these photos out...

http://www.69pace.com/paint1969burnishedbrown.htm

Paul

[Kelley W King]

In a world full of Huggers,Garnets, and Blacks. I think this color is appealing and different.

[IZRSSS]

You definitely made the right choice. Nothing beats a bone stock original color & Paul's pics proves it!

[OG69Z]

Scott, and family, glad to hear it was a family decision!   I've found lots of patience is needed when it comes to paint jobs, its nice you have the family's support. Please keep us posted as to your progress.
Bob

[Sauron327]

Bone stock, factory look, originality, and retention of value to purists are contradictory statements to burying stripes under clear. I paint for a living and dissuade this unless the owner wants a custom job. After the edges of stripes sprayed over clear are tickled, there is no hard edge. From a painter's standpoint, there is nothing impressive in technique about burying stripes or graphics. It's simply more labor. If an owner insists on a dead flat finish, it's their car, their choice.

[Dusk_Blue_Z]

When my dad and I painted our car, we opted for laquer paint and a clear coat. In theory, wouldn't a purist want a laquer paint job without the clear? I doubt many people would elect to put a laquer finish without clear on their $60k resto. If someone has, I'd love to see it. I wish thats what we would have done.

Scott, you're the pro painter, will a laquer finish look different than an acrylic given they both have the same paint codes? Also, does clear coat effect the look of a base coat?

ScottJon, love the thought of someone putting another Burnished Brown car on the road. Thats a great color.

[LM69Z28]

When painting our 1969 original all numbers matched Fathom Green (57) X33 02A car there was no question that the stripes would and should NOT be buried in the clear, even thought its 2 stage not single stage like the factory paint (2 stage Dupont Chroma paint used). You need to decide which way to go .......do you want an original looking paint job the way the factory did it with stripes on top of the paint or Retso mod with stripes buried under the clear.
Keep in mind unless you have tons of $'s to spend to repaint the entire car again if your not happy the first go round you need to live with your decision.
BB is a great color for our 69 cars! Once cured, color sanded, polished, buffed and waxed it will just shine in the sun and look great on cooler low light days just the way our green does!
Remember the KISS theory!
Just our 2 cents
good luck
Michael Kellogg

[IZRSSS]

Scott - If you don't mind please share your process for a bone stock/factory like paint job (if its possible to give a condensed version).
 
-Single stage, two stage, clear?
-How long do you wait between coats?
-Is color sanding all that's needed to prep for stripes?
-"Tickling the edges", if the paint is laid on correctly would proper buffing and polishing take care of this?
-I have never seen a survivor up close but are all panels suppose to be free of fine waves (for a lack of better term)?
-Is there a book on the market you can recommend for a "lookalike"  40+ year old paint job as it was done back in the day to include all painted areas?
-And last, what has been your experience with top judged events with respect to judges preference...back in the day look, or same techniques but more refined?

Thanx

[Sauron327]

When my dad and I painted our car, we opted for laquer paint and a clear coat. In theory, wouldn't a purist want a laquer paint job without the clear? I doubt many people would elect to put a laquer finish without clear on their $60k resto. If someone has, I'd love to see it. I wish thats what we would have done.

Scott, you're the pro painter, will a laquer finish look different than an acrylic given they both have the same paint codes? Also, does clear coat effect the look of a base coat?

ScottJon, love the thought of someone putting another Burnished Brown car on the road. Thats a great color.

Acrylic lacquer is a thermoplastic and was reflowed at the factory to achieve it's uniform finish and gloss. This is not required with urethane. If you cut and buff uncleared lacquer and break through the layers, the metallic is disrupted causing irregularities. I'm unclear about your second inquiry in it's reference to acrylic. Basecoat in a urethane system, if this is to what you are referring in the third question, not only affects the appearance, it's required. The tints in newer paints are nothing like those in older lacquer. Many formulas provided have to be tinted to hit the target if accuracy is the objective.

[Sauron327]

Marty, A brief synopsis about painting is not that easy. As far as top judged events, my depth of participation or interest in this hobby is unlike others. You'll have to ask the guys that live it. It's been said on this site that judges prefer a urethane that is not overly buffed and resembles lacquer. Original lacquer has an inherent finish that needs to be mimicked with gun adjustments but cannot be replicated with just out of the gun results, different animal than urethane. I don't shoot lacquer anymore, nor has anyone requested their urethane resemble it. It's not what those customers wanted. You can't buy lacquer everywhere anymore either. I still can but it's not the same as old lacquer anyway. Time between coats is recommended flash time. All urethanes can be shot in S.S. or BC/CC but for a resto S.S. for metallics is out. If you want to get close to original with urethane I would not use BC/CC with solids, many do though. Stripe prep depends on whether you are burying them or not. Your tickling assumption is correct. The edges can be cut a little prior to buffing if needed. Should not have to if effective mil thickness is kept to a minimum. Firstgenaddict (James) has hundreds of detailed photos of a survivor and all it's less than perfect paint. Very few would want to pay for a job done like the factory: missed spots, dryness, overspray, sloppiness, etc.  If you think these cars are bad, go look at a survivor Mopar.

[IZRSSS]

You are exactly right, I don't know of anyone who would pay today's prices for yesterdays paint. As I mentioned before, I have never seen a First Gen survivor but I have seen other Chevy's in their birthday suits. Amazing, one would think it could be duplicated with a home improvement sprayer. Even so, I don't think I have seen anything that has moved me more (car wise). Nothing beats the real deal.

It would be interesting to duplicate the old style just to see the reaction of judges. I would imagine the majority would wonder what the heck was this guy was thinking.

Thanx for taking time to answer a difficult topic.