RS Headlight Door Trouble AGAIN...

[jacmac]

I got mine at Ecklers formerly "Ricks" They were $160.00 for the pair!!They were pretty much exactly like my originals.Check out Classic Headquarters on the internet.

[69pace]

I bought mine last in 1982 NOS GM on the shelf at Bristol's Chevrolet.

Classic HQ is making a reliable replacement that has a 1 year warranty and come pretested. Uses new tooling, and quality steel. $84.95  
http://secure.classichq.com/68-69-RS-HEADLAMP-VACUUM-ACTUATOR--P485C59.aspx

Rick's also selling these new tooling versions from Classic HQ but cheaper at $79.99. http://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-headlight-door-vacuum-actuator-rally-sport-rs-1968-1969.html

Classic Industries sells a different tooling replacement manufactured by/for OER - no warranty, $79.99. And we all have our opinions of the quality of any OER product.

But a fresh set of hoses, good vacuum from your intake manifold, new or rebuilt hose bib on the headlight switch, lubed bell-cranks, and silicone lubed canisters, and PJ on the pistons and sealed dust boots make the doors as quick, and reliable as a vacuum system can be.

I love the mechanical pace of the doors on a 68 or 69 vacuum system. I find the electric conversion units too quick, and way too loud to fit the late 60's vibe of the car's design.

As to the binding situation I would check the piston connection and make sue the clip its making contact with anything, could the hose have gotten in the way? Basically look at everything you took off and put back on.

[69pace]

Brian,

Thanks for outlining the proper way to lube the actuator. Nice to know there are rubber boot repops available. Guess I will have to research them as Jack brings up a good point. As you can see, mine have seen their better days.

http://secure.classichq.com/68-69-RS-ACTUATOR-RUBBER-BOOT-ONLY-P486.aspx $7.95

http://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-headlight-door-vacuum-actuator-shaft-dust-boot-rally-sport-rs-1968-1969.html $8.99

[IZRSSS]

Brian,

Seems like you've done this a time or two. Appreciate the info!

Thanks again Jack!

[69pace]

mine and anybody else who says "wow you got yours to work? Can you fix mine too?" LOL

[jacmac]

The best way to trouble shoot the system is to have a vacum pump,starting & shutting off the engine is a pain, just trace out the system like you would an electrical circuit.Plug the pump at the intake manifold hose & start from there.

[IZRSSS]

Here is the reason for the 3/8" gap on the right headlight door. Its amazing how these cars can make fools out of you. The slop on the canister bracket bolt holes and the slight change in mounting position didn't allow the piston to pull the door shut.

Thanks for the help guys!

[HOT3O2]

Marty, Great information. I won't even thought of looking at that.

[69pace]

Here is the reason for the 3/8" gap on the right headlight door. Its amazing how these cars can make fools out of you. The slop on the canister bracket bolt holes and the slight change in mounting position didn't allow the piston to pull the door shut.

Thanks for the help guys!

over 40 years of wear always wins.

[IZRSSS]

Thanks Rick!

40yrs of...yup!

[BULLITT65]

I know this is an old thread, but I found it helpful.
I would add, to get the most travel out of your actuator -keep the bracket bolts loose and manually close the headlight door as far as it will go. ( you may need someone to hold it closed for you if your springs are attached) then tighten up all the bolts. This also goes for the triangle bracket that you can view underneath, that the door rod pivots on. make sure those bolts are loose with the actuator before tightening. For my white 69, it helped a great deal to lube all the joints, and to make sure they were as friction free as possible. You may have to make small tweaks here and there to get the geometry right where nothing is binding. I thought I had a vacuum leak after replacing a few parts, but it was just the parts poorly aligned. Hope this helps fellow RS guys.