Ground wire on 67 PS Rag Joint

[big iron]

Looks like there could be 3 versions of the P/S coupling.
Steve, I appreciate your effort.
Bob

[Mike S]

What about your 67 LOS. build, it has original P/S correct?
Bob

Hi Bob,
 Correct.....Original pump. Attached is a picture of it with the rubber bumper completely intact.
Julian date on P/S box is 032 7
So it looks like they were used in 67 (this picture) and up to early 69 (based on previous pictures I posted).

Mike

[big iron]

Mike,
Good picture, just what I was looking for.
Looking at the picture, what is the finish on the gray brackets (for a better word) under the bolts and nuts? Must be galvanized to have held up for so long.
Is there a copper colored bolt and nut as seen on so many rebuilt units?
I think you should start another thread with your 67 P/S coupling picture and maybe some info on restoration service parts.
Bob

[Mike S]

Hi Bob,

 That plating looks to be either cad or zinc. I'd go with cad though because it held up nicely. Just a guess.
There is no copper anything besides the metal strap. The bolts and nuts are steel (looks black oxide).
 Many replacements now use a copper bolt. I haven't seen one in person so I suspect those are copper plated bolts. IMO, an all copper bolt and nut would be too soft
compared to steel under shear loads so I doubt it would be used in such a critical area.

Mike

[randfr]

Here is a photo with the original rag joint (on the right) from my 1967 RS with power steering and a replacement rag joint I recently ordered.  I have read this thread and others like it and think I understand that the ground strap originally was to insure that the horn worked properly.  But I can't figure out (conclusively) from anywhere whether or not the replacement (that has the wire mesh embedded in it...it felt like a porcupine when i picked it up from the box!) will work or not.

any final thoughts on the original question regarding utility of the ground strap?  can the old ground strap be lifted out and placed on the new joint?  the old joint is formed so that the ends of the ground strap lay flush.

thanks

[JohnZ]

But I can't figure out (conclusively) from anywhere whether or not the replacement (that has the wire mesh embedded in it...it felt like a porcupine when i picked it up from the box!) will work or not.

The wire mesh embedded in the "rag" element will work fine to provide the ground path for the horn; it replaced the separate copper ground strap in production in the early 70's, and in Service replacement rag joint assemblies as well.

[randfr]

so i installed the rag joint.  nevermind that i had to undo the steering linkages to drop the steering box to make enough room to insert the rag joint....

here is an image of the result. i've compared it to other photos here and there (and the AIM) but could not find any info on how much "flex" is allowed in the rubber disk.  some photos show absolutely no flex toward the firewall or towards the steering gear, some do.  as in the attached photo, the ends of my installed rag joint flexes slightly towards the firewall.  i also do not have the rubber caps on the stop pins.  my stop pins do not stick as far thru the slots as some photos.  any known standards for this?

thanks,

[randfr]

just recalled...i took a photo of the old rag joint before disassembling the car last year.  here is the "before" photo.  after getting over the layers of gunk, it appears that the old rag joint didn't flex and more of the stop pins stuck through the flange before i took it apart.  now i'm wondering how to adjust or if it is even necessary.

[Mike S]

 Check out UPC 9/A6 (67 AIM) for directions on adjusting the steering column in/out.
It's very easy to adjust.

Mike

[Sauron327]

so i installed the rag joint.  nevermind that i had to undo the steering linkages to drop the steering box to make enough room to insert the rag joint....

That's not necessary. Just pull the steering column back.

[randfr]

i gave it my best shot to the steering column (take the 3 bolts out from under the steering column and gently pulled on the steering column) to build the room but it didn't want to give.  lacking any other ideas (and the engine is still out) i just opted to drop the steering box instead of yanking something out of the steering column.

any tips on budging the steering column in order to adjust?  did i miss something under the dash?  does the rag joint even need to be adjusted?

[JohnZ]

i gave it my best shot to the steering column (take the 3 bolts out from under the steering column and gently pulled on the steering column) to build the room but it didn't want to give.  lacking any other ideas (and the engine is still out) i just opted to drop the steering box instead of yanking something out of the steering column.

any tips on budging the steering column in order to adjust?  did i miss something under the dash?  does the rag joint even need to be adjusted?

You have to remove the plastic trim cover under the dash and loosen the clamp bolts that hold the steel upper and lower covers together on the column in order to move the column fore-aft. See your Assembly Manual, section 9, sheet A4. The rag joint element should be flat, not distorted in either direction. Original "rag" elements had seven laminations, and most of the reproductions have only four.