Period correct engine value?

[blownonfuel]

 Hello. I want to bring my 68 rs/ss back as close to period correct as I can since I do not have the original engine or transmission. My car was a L48 auto car to start with and I would like to get it back to that state. I have found a couple of "MU" blocks that will need sleeves due to cylinder bore sizes,pitting,etc. I guess my question is, is it really worth it for me to get the "correct" engine block with the correct stampings or just get a 010 block and stick "291" heads on it and enjoy the car. I plan on keeping my car and enjoying it but would like to get it as close to original as I can. What would you do? How much would the car's value increase with a "MU" engine?

Thanks

[jmcbeth]

Probably not the answer you are looking for, but my attitude is: who cares what the change in value is? Since you want to get as close to original as possible and you plan to keep the car and enjoy it, I say go for it. The ability to say, "This is a technically correct car for the period." is invaluable. That's my experience.

Best of luck.

[blownonfuel]

Thanks John.

[jonboy1216]

my 68 rsss l48 didnt have the original block when i purchased so i bought the next best thing a 68 z28 mo 302 to go in it .man those 302s are expensive but at least they will not hurt the value of my car probably can get more money than if i had the original motor simply for the 302 motor.what does anyone else think?

[sftibbs]

I agree that you should go for the correct block. I'm restoring a '69 SS350 and I'm searching for an L48 block as well. I will enjoy the car much more knowing it is as close to original as possible when I'm finished with it.

Steve

[blownonfuel]

Thanks for the input. Funny thing is that they made many more L48s than either the 302 or 396 but it seems I can find them easier than a L48. Go figure.

[Jerry@CHP]

I'll put my "Legends" concours judging hat on and give my best professional opinoin.  If you want to have the most technically correct car if the OEM engine is gone, then a dated correct original engine is the best way to increase the value of the car and authenticity of the car.  Next would be to install a restoration block, this is one that the casting date lines up with the car with restamped engine assembly numbers and vin numbers. 

CE blocks do not have any value from a restoration stand point unless you have the dealer installed paperwork that came with the car.  Having a CE block in a restored Z28 or SS, COPO, etc will net you very little points.  Only thing worse than a CE block would be an over the counter Target motor from GM.

Hope this helps,

Jerry 

[blownonfuel]

Thanks Jerry. If I can't get the correct block I will probably go with a correct casting and leave it at that. I don't see the point of getting restamps, if it is not it is not. I don't plan on showing or selling the car, I just want to get it close to what it once was and enjoy it. It will never be a numbers matching car unless some miracle happens and I find the original engine somewhere. Most of the "MU" block i have found either need sleeves due to many overbores or they are not even sure what the cylinder will look like since they have lots of rust. It's looking more and more like I might just find a "678" block and some "291" heads and enjoy it.

BTW, what are the plans for the "off" season and the Z28? More dyno time?

[jonboy1216]

jerry wouldnt a period correct mo 302 add just as much value to the car as the original engine?that was my thinking if i dont have the numbers matching engine then a 302 would be the best alternative for increased value considering the rarity and expense of 302s

[tom]

A correct engine be the best alternative. But it still is an alternative. Nothing is as good (or valuable) as the original engine with the partial vin. (that includes re-stampes). An original 302 might add more value, but in my opinion that would be because a real 302 has a higher resale value than a correct L48.

[jonboy1216]

resale i guess is what i was looking at ive seen 500 dollar cars with a dz or mo 302 sale for more than 8000 bucks.do you think that a 302 is the most valuable small block or would the corvette lt1 be?

[RS3SDL2MG]

when talking about this subject 2  term's alway's come up nowaday's

#1 NUMBER'S MATCHING 

#2 ORIGINAL (BORN WITH)

these two term's are burned into the public's mind just like a 1969 camaro COWL HOOD ,  we all know that a 1969 camaro hood was named ZL2 COLD AIR HOOD by GM but the public RENAMED IT ! , COWL INDUCTION was for a chevelle, that's the best way I know to describe this , trying to tell someone that a correct date coded engine that fit's a car's build is not number's matching IS FUTILE ! YOU ARE WASTING YOUR TIME ,

anyway term #1 NUMBER'S MATCHING to the public mean's a car has an engine and or transmission that is the correct number code and date for the car which is what you will have if you find a block that fit's your car's build date and is correct for your car , AND THIS DOE'S ADD VALUE TO A CAR !

term #2 ORIGINAL (BORN WITH) to the public mean's that the car has the original motor and or transmission that it left the factory with ,

I read your first post and the thing that would make up my mind whether or not to do this or not would be the way that you know a 1968 camaro is an RS/SS ? the car's were not coded the only thing that the vin and cowl tag tell's you is what color it was and whether it was a six cyliner or V8 , if you have the protect-o-plate for the car and the fact that it is an RS/SS is solid then YES I would definately find a number's matching engine for it ,
if you do not have the protect-o-plate or some other way (NOT SURE WHAT THAT WOULD BE) to prove it is an RS/SS I would NOT worry about finding a block to match the car's date because it won't matter ,

[Jerry@CHP]

Jonboy,  Yes, that is what I said.  A dated correct engine is the best for any original high performance Camaro.  I'm speaking as to having a car judged in the "Legends" certification.  If I owned a car without it's original engine, I would want one that was an original engine dated correct for my car.

The whole number's matching word terminology has been tainted thanks to the auction houses and classic car dealers.  20 years ago, number's matching meant original drive train.  Since that time when I'm doing inspections, I have to ask the seller if it's the original drive train installed by Norwood.  Doing that leaves no wiggle room.

Jerry 

[tom]

I always considered number matching to include the partial vin stamp on the drivetrain. A correct but not the original, would be "period correct" in my book.

[blownonfuel]

Thanks Brad for the advise. I'm not sure a protecto plate these days ensures you have a legit car anyway, it seems these days everything can be faked. I know my car is a true SS/RS since I bought it way back when way before the clone or restoration craze began, I have photos and witnesses to prove it, regardless I think you are correct as far as my situation goes. I am leaning on a LT1 short (because I found one cheap) and "291" heads and just enjoy the car. If a "MU" block comes along for the right price then maybe I'll go for it but for now I just want to drive my car again.

Thanks for all the advice from all of you.