Author Topic: Front Disc Brakes dragging...  (Read 25913 times)

tom

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1146
    • View Profile
    • Discount Internet Services
Re: Front Disc Brakes dragging...
« Reply #15 on: July 03, 2009, 12:16:14 AM »
They should both spin fairly easy. If you overheated the system you may now also have a caliper issue, or a warped rotor. Does the driver side consistantly stop close to the same position?
69 X11 Z21 L14 glide
looking for a 69 export model (KPH) speed
o

Reeko

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 8
    • View Profile
Re: Front Disc Brakes dragging...
« Reply #16 on: July 06, 2009, 06:34:16 PM »
No,
Doesn't stop in the same position.
There seems to be a consistent resistence/drag on the Driver's side.
Passenger side now spins pretty freely.

I drove the car all weekend and the front wheels do not seem to be getting excessively hot like they were. I need to jack mit up again and check now that I put a few miles on it after the hydraulic fix.

I plan to dis-assemble the brakes and make sure that the calipers move freely. Might need to grease the pins or whatever.
I am pretty happy that the hydraulic problem is fixed.

Probably need to also re-grease the bearings given that some of the grease melted out.

Pex68

  • Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 394
    • View Profile
Re: Front Disc Brakes dragging...
« Reply #17 on: July 06, 2009, 07:07:06 PM »
Funny, I just ran into this same problem before I saw this this thread, only mine is a 68.  Went right to the concluison the master cyl piston was being held out by the rod as I just put the original booster back on.  Thought of the same thing, loosen the master from the booster and check.  Well problem was still there-did not even have to touch the brake and car would come to a pretty qiuck stop.  Tapped the brake pedal a few times and all of the sudden problem gone?!?!  Long story short found MC piston is randomly hanging about a 1/4" from full return to retaining clip, only when letting it return slowly on bench.  If I bottom it and just let go it fully returns.  Cylinder was JUST SS sleeved by Karps and I installed new NAPA rebuild kit-and put new RPV in the rear port.  What gives?  There's no ridges/bumps/scores in the sleeve-they hone them after install anyway.  Kit comes with new secondary piston & spring but primary is still original.  Could it be the primary spring is shot?  Thinking of just getting a re-built unit and gutting it for the parts???  Any ideas???  Also if I get the rebuilt unit, are the guts of the Bendix & Delco units the same?
Chris P
1968 Sequoia Green SS 396/325 M20