Author Topic: Help figuring 69 out  (Read 11264 times)

dsherw00d

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Help figuring 69 out
« on: February 06, 2006, 02:59:03 AM »
Hello,

I have a 69 with VIN N545552.  Tag has no X codes - just color and build date.  If I read correctly, this is normal for early 69s which I think the 54xxxx qualifies?  Any other way to tell what model it was/is?  It has multi-leaf rear springs, a non original 10 bolt, louvered hood (SS?), SS emblems, SS steering wheel, etc.  It has a disc brake pedal, but no front disc brakes.  I think I have a mut, but am trying to get more info.

Motor seems to be a 67 327/275hp casting 3892657 with heads 3890462.  There is a stamping on pad by the right head, but I can't make it out yet.  It's has a saginaw tranny.   Not positive what it is out of, but it ran strong about 5 years back when fired to make sure it ran.  Car has been sitting since 83.

While I'm here, is it worth it to rebuild the 327, or should I go with the basic GM 350 crate motor?  I wan't to use the Richmond or Tremec manual OD tranny.  What's the 327 worth?

If you want to see the mess - http://www.thesherwoodgang.com/cars/.  Click on the pic and a couple more appear.  Maybe someone can look at the holes in the firewall and give some info?  I've read about the holes for the cables, but I've been unable to determine for sure .

Thanks,
Dan

rich69rs

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Re: Help figuring 69 out
« Reply #1 on: February 06, 2006, 06:57:35 PM »
Rebuild the 327 - great motor.
Richard Thomas
1969 RS

rich69rs

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Re: Help figuring 69 out
« Reply #2 on: February 06, 2006, 07:01:57 PM »
As you can see from the pic, I left mine "stock" except that the '185 heads easily were enlarged from the original .174 intake valves to .194 and that cam change sure helped the low end out a little more.  If I wanted HP as opposed to the originality, change the intake and carb setup - the lower end is ready.  But for me - the originality is paramount.  So I'll accept good low end performance up to where the carb/intake die at about 4000 rpm.  Too much time and effort invested to abuse the car anyway.  Great for curisin' - runs a lot better than a lot of "stronger" Camaros I've run across.
Richard Thomas
1969 RS

dsherw00d

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Re: Help figuring 69 out
« Reply #3 on: February 06, 2006, 08:38:57 PM »
Nice.  How did you handle the old canister style oil filter?  I'm guessing they make an adapter?  I'm not tryign to do anything special.  The factory rated 275hp is enough.  I would rather put the money into power disc brakes and a nice OD tranny.  Things that will let me cruise down the highway at 65 in comfort.

I've heard some say the 327 is expensive to rebuild compared to the 350.  Kinda like the 305 vs the 350.  I've looked through Jegs and Summit and it doesn't look like it will cost more.  I'll most likely have it rebuilt and put it back in the car.

Thanks,
Dan

lakeholme

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Re: Help figuring 69 out
« Reply #4 on: February 06, 2006, 09:54:29 PM »
I realize we're not helping much with your decoding issue...
But I have a 327 mutt myself, and it's a great car for cruising.  In your post and comments with the pics, you do not seem to be concerned about orginality issues.  Of course 327 was not an SS motor... but there are a lot of "SS" 327s on the highway today.
The front disc brakes are a good idea!  I, too, would rather have them than more hp.
Good luck on the restoration.  Let us know how it goes. ;D
Phillip, HNR & NCR-AACA, Senior Master, Team Captain, Admin.,
Spring Southeastern Nationals chair, AACA National Director

rich69rs

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Re: Help figuring 69 out
« Reply #5 on: February 06, 2006, 10:07:32 PM »
Rebuild cost for the engine was very reasonable.  I live about 60 miles due south of Reno, NV which allowed me to use a very reputable shop in Reno to do the rebuild.  I brought them the complete engine (which I had pulled out of a 69 Camaro that was being parted out back in 1994) and they gave me back the complete engine (from the intake down to the oil pan) completely assembled and ready to go.  In addition to being one of the finer shops in the area, everything was performed in house from the intake to the oil pan.  Nothing was sent out.  They handled the block, cylinder heads (including opening up the intake valves), machining, balancing, etc.  Total cost was less than $2,000.  There is an advantage in this area in that quality work is available at a reasonable price due to the high interest in the hobby in this area.   I wouldn't expect much difference one way or the other between a 307, 327, or a 350 from the late 60's.  All are basically the same engine.

As far as the spin on oil cannister, that went away at the end of the 1968 model year.  In 1969, the cannister was replaced with the spin on filter and the oil fill was relocated from the front of the intake manifold to the driver side valve cover.  PCV / crankcase ventillation routing was from a seperate filter in the air cleaner on the passenger side, through the passenger side valve cover, through the engine, out the driver side valve cover / PCV valve, to the connection in the back at the base of the carburetor throttle body.  Guess my point is, if you have a 69' 327, no oil cannister - it will have a spin on filter and the oil fill is through the driver side valve cover.  I've never used one, but I have seen adapters to convert from the cannister to the spin on filter.  I believe all you do is screw the adapter plate on first and then the spin on filter mounts directly to the adapter.
Richard Thomas
1969 RS

KevinW

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Re: Help figuring 69 out
« Reply #6 on: February 07, 2006, 12:40:11 AM »
Another thing to think about is the 67 heads don't have accessory holes.  That will make mounting the 69 alternator setup tough.  Like the others have said a 327 is a very nice engine, just make sure the trans and gears are setup for the engine (327s like more RPMs that 350s)