Fender Skirt Splash Apron Kit

[big iron]

James,
How thick is your material?

[rsr]

Still looking for the splash kit that's close to original and several places like Heartbeat City,The Parts Place,Trim parts, Metro claim to be just like the originals but don't want to buy ALL of them just to compare! Anybody tried some from these retailers ?

[firstgenaddict]

The Material called MASTICATED RUBBER it is 1/8" thick and is available from:

Restoration Specialties & Supply Inc
814-467-9842 PA

[169INDY]

Just ordered some will post results.
40" wide x Linear  foot @ $13.75 per FT.

I have a torn Orig I bonded (Glued-Goofy) repair back in 86. The replacements seem to smooth and lack the texture and cotton strands.

James I sincerely appreciate you sharing the source.

Jim

[rsr]

Thanks James for the info.........

[big iron]

James,
How thick is your material?

2X James

[firstgenaddict]

I just measured it on a EJ Cady dial caliper with industry spec anvils (some specific sq inches) and I came up with .075.
This is the masticated rubber with the string cords in it.
I will post photos this week.

[big iron]

Just measured my original 67 dust shield material 4 pc and they check out at .082/.090. The 5th lower rear LH shield only measures .115/.120.
Wire staples for the 4 pc dust shields measure .050 and the ones for the lower rear are .055.
I checked the shields I have from Soft Seal and they are all .070.
The search continues.
Bob

[rsr]

I was also disappointed with the set from soft seal! Inner tube cut outs was my first impression......

[big iron]

Another disappointment, just talked to Paul @ Steele Rubber Products and their 5 pc dust shield set 70-3309-45 is made from 1/16" (.062) masticated rubber but they do have  3/32" (.093) sheet (70-0645-45) that sells for $34.00 per liner foot that is 4'.     .093 a little to thick for the 4 pc shields and not thick enough for the lower rear shield.
Bob

[rsr]

Good work Bob! Glad somebody cares enough to do the research for us!

[68camaroz28]

While at Carlisle I picked up some of Restoration Specialties material. As mentioned before its sold by the foot. Thanks James!


Thickness of material:

[big iron]

Chick,
The masticated sheet they show MAT014-WS is 1/16" .062, so they indicate. I wonder what the thickness tolerances are on this type sheeting?
Did you check the old seals on your 68?  Did you make new ones from the material you bought or use the old ones?
Does your 68 have the 5th seal at the LH firewall?
Bob 

[68camaroz28]

Chick,
The masticated sheet they show MAT014-WS is 1/16" .062, so they indicate. I wonder what the thickness tolerances are on this type sheeting?
Did you check the old seals on your 68?  Did you make new ones from the material you bought or use the old ones?
Does your 68 have the 5th seal at the LH firewall?
Bob 

Bob, just picked up the material this week so have not done anything with it. I'm in need of new ones for our 68Z restoration so I'm checking different avenues which might include making. Thickness does seem to vary but I only purchased a 2' piece and I'm thinking a little thicker will not be an issue compared to being thinner. For me the big factor as I talked to James was trying to duplicate the look which is not easy. And yes, our 68 had the 5th seal which is original to the car and recently put it in place as the front end goes back on soon.

[169INDY]

I got the 2' linear rubber, matting, 1/16" (Actual 0.080 +.003" / - 0.000"). Part number  MAT014-WS
seems thicker (as measured and indicated above) than the advertised 0.0625", I think that is a good thing.
Very fresh and pliable and cuts easily with a quality set of shears. Using a silver ink pen I transferred the shape from the original shield to the rubber stock. Cut like you are in kindergarten art class.

I had purchased some galv wire #17ga in thought that I would mfr my own replacement staples, Ha ! No way. This "wire" solid round, galv is way to pliable ductile etc bendable. The factory staples are tough units- Fail, So I resorted to re-using the existing staples by bending them straight and forcing the rubber  (NEW) over the staple points and pushing the staple thru the rubber with a variety of "tools" to get penetration and then tap them over by folding it on top of  the rubber to retain the shield in position.