LOWER CONTROL ARM HARDWARE

[420GOAT]

did the lower control arm bolts ever have washers on either end? seems as though without washers the bolt tears away at the frame hole. i have seen this on other camaros ive had but dont remember seeing washers. but i am compelled to use some there....will this cause any problems?.......thanks for any advise.

[1968RSZ28]

420GOAT -

Once these bolts/nuts are torqued to the correct specification (85 ft. lbs. for a '68) they don't move and therefore won't damage the subframe.  The lower control arms simply pivot on the shank of the bolts.  I checked the '68 AIM and no washers are shown.  Good luck.   

Paul   

[420GOAT]

You are correct but the previous abuser damaged the holes somehow .... the nut and bolthead seem to be opening the holes larger....so should i put a washer on them as added security?

[169INDY]

My 1968 Camaro (80+k miles) had the same [single] hole elongation problem on the passenger side aft (rear) lower A-arm mounting -pivot subframe hole.
I fabricated a mild steel backing plate out of 3/16" thick stock. Oversized (L x W) and drilled to clear the bolt. The existing bolt has extra length to extend thru the added distance.
I prepared the frame, cleaned of paint, Mocked up the hole - bolt alignment and hired a moon lighting Nuclear qualified Naval civilian welder to (TIG) weld the plate in place using his remote portable gas powered TIG set up. We did this with the enginge in place and suspension in a state of disassy (No springs etc) We watched the heat levels and worked very carefully. Used tons of heat - slag - protection,,,kind of a firberous heat blanket as protection. (Refrecell (spelling?))
Painted black and no one is any the wiser for the reapair. Final assy and front end alignment accomplished and I am good to go.

Jim

[JohnZ]

The lower control arms simply pivot on the shank of the bolts. 
Paul  

No, they don't pivot on the bolt shanks. With the OEM rubber bushings, the outer sleeve of the bushing is locked solid to the hole in the control arm, and the rubber portion of the bushing is bonded to its inner diameter; the I.D. of the rubber bushing is bonded to the O.D. of the inner sleeve of the bushing. When the through-bolt is torqued, it clamps both (serrated) ends of the inner sleeve solid to the subframe. All relative motion between the control arm and the subframe is absorbed by torsional deflection of the rubber portion of the bushing; the outer sleeve doesn't move, and neither does the inner sleeve.

Aftermarket poly bushings are different - they DO move relative to the inner and outer sleeves, which is why they wear and squeak.

[420GOAT]

now i really dont want to weld this thing up and make it more complicated.....can i use washers on the thing? or am i doomed......write now it seems it'll be fine but since im down ther i want to something.....what's the verdict gentlemen?

[JohnZ]

now i really dont want to weld this thing up and make it more complicated.....can i use washers on the thing? or am i doomed......write now it seems it'll be fine but since im down ther i want to something.....what's the verdict gentlemen?

What's important is to have enough metal surface on the subframe so that the serrated ends of the inner sleeve have subframe metal around the hole to clamp against when the bolt is torqued; if the hole is wallowed-out larger than the O.D. of the inner sleeve and you use a washer at that end to cover the enlarged hole, the inner sleeve will be displaced toward the end with the washer when the bolt is torqued.

[420GOAT]

Thank you .....now that is an answer i will think about.