What’s the best method to remove 1968 dealer applied undercoating?

[David K]

The original owner ordered the car and paid for it to be applied, which the tech sprayed on stem to stern before delivery in early 68….gas tank and both rear wheel wells included. I think the tech got paid by the pint as well, or she tipped him before he did it so he would cover everything. I’m pretty the vibration/noise on decel is because half the drive shaft has some on it. It’s pretty thick underneath but definitely saved the floor from recycling back to Mother Earth. I’d like to retain whatever original patina from the factory is there if I can and have it looking stock again with a slight weight reduction as well. I’ve added a picture of the underside showing the fuel tank and straps. It’s also very hard and dried out as well, and did I mention…thick? There’s a lot of methods out there-from Dry ice spray, oven cleaner and scraper, wire wheel, etc. Your suggestions are appreciated in advance.

[Iowa Jon]

Hi David, I went through this process this past summer.  I will preface it by saying I am not sure it is advisable in most states but it worked for me and I did not get sick. I put my car up in the air and used a combination of a heat gun,  shop towels and GOO Be Gone.  I sprayed Goo in a spot then heated with heat gun. Used a plastic scraper and shop towels.  Took it right down to the original color underneath quickly.  A propane torch works better but it will give off a lot of fumes and the goo be gone is flammable. I would stick with a heat gun. Took me a 8 hour day to get the underneath stripped clean of undercoating. The dry ice works will inside the car on the floor.  I tried all sorts of other chemicals like Big Orange, ZEP products, all natural organic stuff made of orange peels or what ever,  Etc.  Nothing came close to GOO Be Gone and a heat gun.  Jon

[169INDY]

It took me 6 months of flow time unknown process time to remove PNW dealer coating.
Mine was very thick and had a consistence like that of Peanut Brittle, this was beneficial in that by using a variety of scrapers it would flake off in large Chunks.
Areas that were exposed to engine oil (Leaks) and Heat (Exhaust) were soft and then were easily removed with some solvents.

My goal was NOT to preserve, I planned to prime & Paint my Driver Pacer, so the injury caused by metal scrapers was NOT a concern, It took SO many Passes that the job was a burden and a royal Pain in the Head, working on jack stands on my back.

The BEst thing I did was Remove EVERY thing so I had great access to the underside Tub surfaces

17lbs

[David K]

Thanks guy, and I think lll try the heat gun in a small sample area. The torque converter seal leaks a bit, so that area behind it might come off somewhat easy. Gotta say….damn, that looks like 20lbs worth of dried material. I’m in no rush, but it’s just a thing to try and get closer to day 1.

[396 SS/RS]

I'd heard that applying Easy Off Oven cleaner on it and let it soak/set for a bit to loosen it up and then get you several of the plastic sheetrock scrapers.

[David K]

Here’s a few more. This stuff will stay on this car….not sure the juice is worth the squeeze.

[Charley]

Pay someone to dry ice it.

[David K]

This came across my YouTube feed. Who says big brother isn’t listening?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GNWe1tqWy1c

[1967 4K]

I worked in the Graphic Printing industry for many years and they have been using the dry ice cleaning process on their presses for years. You can rent all the equipment from United Rental and others. They can also get you in touch with a dry ice supplier. You must have a very good compressed air source and for it to be completely dry air also. Not hard work but very messy.
I agree with Charley and hire someone to do it if possible.

[David K]

Thanks for the input. After doing some sleuthing, I found a local company and will see what their estimate is. There doesn’t appear to be a big need for undercoating or the removal either in San Diego….stay tuned.

[KurtS]

Remember, the factory applied some undercoating in the wheelwells.

[David K]

Thanks Kurt, I remember seeing video, pictures, or documents somewhere showing how it was to be applied. Rear half of three rear wheelelwells and someplace else. Do you by chance have a link?