bellhousing alignment-any new info?

[JST69Z28]

I removed the transmission in my 69 Z28 to replace seals and found the pilot bearing had failed.  See photo, the needles are mostly gone and it was dry.  I installed a new clutch 20 years ago and had no noticeable vibrations or any other problems.  I read the CRG bellhousing alignment report and any other posts I could find on the subject.  Is the bearing failure a common problem?  Should I look into purchasing the alignment tool to check?  I have never checked it.

I called Browell, and they are backordered for 2 weeks on the tool.  Cost is now $160, and they sell adjustable dowels for 36.80/pr.

Has anything changed in the past few years in the way of new tools or inspection processes that I should know about?  Any recommendations?  I do have a QuickJack to raise the car 1-2 feet, but for the most part will be on my back doing this.  Thanks for any advice.

[Sauron327]

The CRG article only addresses concentric alignment and not parallel. Both should be measured. Parallel affects concentric readings. I have a large box of shims for parallel adjustment. Jody's Transmissions will not warranty his trannys without this procedure being documented. You can buy a small shim kit from him instead of a large box I have. Jody sent me the instructions in PDF. If you get a kit from him he can send it to you, as well as answer any questions. He has offset dowels if you do end up needing them, is great to deal with and did a M22Z for a job of mine. I use a dial indicator to check alignment.
What tranny are you running and why a needle pilot bearing instead of a bronze pilot?

[JST69Z28]

M20, and when I put one in 20 years ago the needle bearing was recommended to me at that time over the bushing, and reading the CRG report it also says to use the needle bearing.   

[GMAD_Van Nuys]

There are dial indicators with magnetic bases that are relatively inexpensive and available from a number of sources.  I've ordered items from Summit Racing and gotten everything quickly:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900016-1?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-tools

[Sauron327]

M20, and when I put one in 20 years ago the needle bearing was recommended to me at that time over the bushing, and reading the CRG report it also says to use the needle bearing.   

Bellhousing misalignments don't like pilot bearings for one thing. Jody told me to use a bronze bushing he shipped me for his Muncie and not the pilot bearing I had. For decades the oillite bronze bushing is all we used. And those cars were/are beat on mercilessly. Jody or someone else can explain in greater detail. What does your input shaft look like after that failed pilot bearing got at it?

[Stingr69]

Ball bearings on the input shaft are more tolerant to bell housing misalignment. Muncies use that type. 

Factory bell housing alignment are usually good enough for service with the Muncie and with a bronze bushing they are trouble free and easy to service.  Newer reproduction bell housings or aftermarket bell housings are more frequently out of alignment enough to need offset pins to correct it.

The newer design Tremec transmissions use a tapered roller front bearing that is more intolerant of bell housing runout so it needs to be checked and corrected before buttoning it all together.

As for the pilot bearing vs bushing - the bushing works great and is easy to remove and install.  The bearing is more difficult to remove, more intolerant of misalignment and does not bring anything to the table so....Why would anyone prefer a pilot bearing?  JMO.

[JST69Z28]

Input shaft photo attached.  It looks OK, plus the new bearing fits well.  Feedback welcome. 

I want to do the best job possible and have no issue ordering a dial indicator and doing the most accurate checks.  I have had the car 42 years and the bellhousing alignment has never been checked.  This car is street driven only and never shifted hard.  Reviewing the CRG report, I see how to check for concentric alignment but there is no mention of the parallel check, and I want to do that, too.   It was mentioned Jody's Transmissions has a .pdf file on how to do the checks?   How can I get that?  I would be glad to call Jody and request it, and also buy parts from him.  Thanks for all the great info.

[GMAD_Van Nuys]

Article on parallel check using dial indicator:

https://www.holley.com/blog/post/how_to_align_your_bellhousing_for_maximum_transmission_and_clutch_life/

[Mike S]

   My transmission went through needle bearing pilot bushings a lot. Here is a past CRG thread. Check out my reply #12. I used a magnetic gauge from Harbor Freight to dial in the bellhousing alignment. http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=16097.0
I stopped using the needle bearing and went back to the bronze bushing now that the alignment is dialed in correctly.

Mike

[Sauron327]

I can send you Jody's PDF files.

[MO]

Ball bearings on the input shaft are more tolerant to bell housing misalignment. Muncies use that type. 

Factory bell housing alignment are usually good enough for service with the Muncie and with a bronze bushing they are trouble free and easy to service.  Newer reproduction bell housings or aftermarket bell housings are more frequently out of alignment enough to need offset pins to correct it.

The newer design Tremec transmissions use a tapered roller front bearing that is more intolerant of bell housing runout so it needs to be checked and corrected before buttoning it all together.

As for the pilot bearing vs bushing - the bushing works great and is easy to remove and install.  The bearing is more difficult to remove, more intolerant of misalignment and does not bring anything to the table so....Why would anyone prefer a pilot bearing?  JMO.

Friction.

[JST69Z28]

To Sauron327, my personal email address is JST69Z28@gmail.com if you could send me Jody's .pdf files, much appreciated. 

At this point, I am going to get a dial indicator and try the concentric and parallel checks.  I have the time and want to learn that.   

[Sauron327]

To Sauron327, my personal email address is JST69Z28@gmail.com if you could send me Jody's .pdf files, much appreciated. 

At this point, I am going to get a dial indicator and try the concentric and parallel checks.  I have the time and want to learn that.   

OK

[JST69Z28]

Thank you to Sauron327 for all the great info he sent me from Jody's.  I bought a dial indicator and did both the concentric and parallel runout checks and my bellhousing checked good.  The trans is back in and everything working well.  The dial indicator tests were not difficult to do, and there are several videos online showing how to do it.  Thanks to all for the great advice.