Won't start when the starter gets hot.

[Old Man]

My 69 will not start after I've driven it and the engine is at running temperature. I have to wait 5 to 10 minutes until it cools down then it will start. My buddy says it's the starter heat soaking, does anybody else's do this and what is the fix? Thanks

[lakeholme]

Before you replace the starter, etc. check the wiring to the starter, especially where they run near the exhaust.  Mine did that for a while, and it turned out to be the wiring not the starter itself. And while you are at it, check from the starter to the dash and back to the battery with a meter.

[rich69rs]

Does your car have headers or stock manifolds?  Headers tend to be more of an issue than stock manifolds.  Also, check the battery voltage under a load test.  Most parts houses can check the battery for you.  Under a load test at half the rated cold cranking amps of the battery, the battery should still be putting out at least 9.5 volts.

Basically you are looking for excessive voltage drop between the battery and the starter solenoid as well as checking to be sure that the battery is still strong.  If all that checks out, time to check the starter.  Worn bushings will let the rotor in the  starter drag on the internal stator windings - this condition usually gets worse if the starter has been exposed to high temps from the exhaust system. 

[1968RSZ28]

I have a friend that had this problem and he installed one of these heat shields:

http://www.1tail.com/sa/p/Versa-Shield_Universal_Heat_Shield_7_x24_.htm

He claims it worked!  

Paul

[Old Man]

Does your car have headers or stock manifolds?  Headers tend to be more of an issue than stock manifolds.  Also, check the battery voltage under a load test.  Most parts houses can check the battery for you.  Under a load test at half the rated cold cranking amps of the battery, the battery should still be putting out at least 9.5 volts.

Basically you are looking for excessive voltage drop between the battery and the starter solenoid as well as checking to be sure that the battery is still strong.  If all that checks out, time to check the starter.  Worn bushings will let the rotor in the  starter drag on the internal stator windings - this condition usually gets worse if the starter has been exposed to high temps from the exhaust system. 

Stock manifolds, lol. What do the volt meters in a 69 normally read? If it matters mine is forward of the center console and most always reads "0" like it's not charging the battery but as I said after it cools a bit it starts right up.

[68Zproject]

If you're talking about the stock console, that guage is not volts but amps and shows the present current draw and charging rate.

[JohnZ]

If you're talking about the stock console, that guage is not volts but amps and shows the present current draw and charging rate.

Actually, the "ammeter" (battery gauge) is a sensitive voltmeter (galvanometer); it senses voltage at the battery junction block (black gauge wire) and at the voltage regulator (black/white gauge wire), and displays the voltage difference between those two points as an indication of whether current is flowing TO or FROM the battery. It's not in series with any loads, and doesn't carry any load current.

[Steve Shauger]

Proceed with the amperage test, but it is probably the solenoid sticking/expanding when hot. I have replaced the standard with high temp unit on several cars and never had a problem. I know Ron at MCCP sells them and someone out west as well. His # is 815-648-1700.

[jdv69z]

I once had this  problem with starter where it would do nothing when everything was hot, but worked fine at cold start ups. Seems it had internal wiring with insulation that was not what it should be, and when hot, wires would expand, cross and short. When it cooled off, wires would contract, not cross and everything worked fine.

Whenever I would attempt to crank while hot, ammeter would also bury to one side. I think this was an indication of a short, which was what was happening inside the starter when uninsulated wires crossed. Had to replace starter.

Just another possibility

Jimmy V.

[zdld17]

I have had this happen with headers or stock manifolds.  I added the heat wrap for back up but I found that the starter solenoids I was using , have teflon in the plunger area.   When heated, it would expand, thus sticking plunger.   Cooling down helps.    I have made it a point to try to locate the Delco or Gm solenoids but they are getting scarce.      I have chosen the Bluestreak line or Echlien (sp) brand and removed the plunger to be sure of what I am paying for,  if not , I leave it. 

[Old Man]

What about just putting a heavy duty starter say off of a truck on it? I've been told that the truck starters had bigger solenoids that the heat wouldn't effect as much.

[zdld17]

IMO, unless you say Delco Rebuilt and order by specific application, you will get the generic, all cores out of one barrel, dismantled, inspected ,  tested to min and thats it.   I have run across there differant winding, field coils and armatures , all for same application.    What I did do , put the starter together with the amature with most winding,  most field coils and selected the starter solenoid that did not have the teflon plunger liner and had the largest plunger.   In some cases I found that the starter plunger yoke or fork , driving the bendix drive was in backwards.     The other fail safe is going to a Tilton Super Starter, this is the best reduction mini starter on the market.  IMO