Carburetor Heat Spacer, yes, no

[WaltZ]

There is a 1/2" Phenolic Carb Spacer on now and can't use metal ring spacer for the cowl induction air cleaner.
I did make a new choke linkage so that works and looks original.
I'd like to have the original look under to hood, but also worry about boiling the gas on hot days in traffic as I drive it a lot.
What would you all do, leave it as is or remove the Phenolic Carb Spacer.
Thanks in advance

[william]

It's the Ethanol in today's fuel. Percolation is real concern. Dangerous to have raw fuel spilling in the engine bay. Holley sells a kit with a thicker gasket and heat shield.

Air cleaner seal is upside down.

[WaltZ]

I believe it is on correctly as it can only go on one way to fasten to the flange.
It is not compressed as much because the spacer ring to flange is not installed because of the added 1/2" carb spacer.

[crossboss]

Also, try installing a lower temp thermostat. This will help cooling, and hopefully prevent some heat soak in the engine.

[william]

Nope.

It is absolutely on upside down-and inside out. The bead seen at the top of the seal should be clipped on the outside of the lip of the flange. In production, the seal was glued to the flange. Covered here on SYC.

https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=130332

[WaltZ]

I politely disagree. AIM was followed, reviewed the vid and made a callto another knowledgeable person and alltl supports my seal installation is correct. So I'll leave it as is.
 Let's get back to the question; what do you all think about using the heat spacers.

[william]

I politely disagree. AIM was followed,

Not followed very well, since it clearly shows yours is on upside down and inside out.

[WaltZ]

that's an exact cross view of mine.
any how, end of this topic

[1971ls6]

What William said.

Paint the spacer silver

[Stingr69]

I like the silver paint on the spacer.  I need to get one of those myself.

As for the rubber seal - Walt is probably right.  There is a U-tube video showing the proper way to install current (and earlier version) reproduction hood seals.  The GM cut away diagram posted above does not show the shape of these reproduction seals as they really are now.  The upper edge of the seal is intended to "roll outward" as the seal is compressed.  They have what looks like "lips" on the top AND bottom on reproductions. Different from the GM diagram. Lower lips formed into the rubber to wrap around the edge of the metal retainer ring and a small lip at the top to help the seal roll outward when compressed.  I have the earlier version of the seal shown in the video.  It is a bit harder rubber so I leave the spacer ring off and it seals fine.  The earlier repro seals will actually stay put on the metal ring without any glue required.  They also look nicer as they do not have any buckling in the rubber when installed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8eYs3Jouz-4

We all have seen bad seal installs.  Whenever you see a seal with the "flat part" facing up to the hood, it is 100% upside down.  Walt's "flat part" is down on the metal ring.

[69Z28-RS]

My suggestion:   Remove the carb spacer, address your 'heat problems' correctly, and install the factory cowl and seal parts correctly!