Lemans Blue 69 Z/28 - 3 Owner Car w/ 49,000 Miles

[Daytona Z]

I like the dating on the factory YH rally wheels, They all match K-1-9 9 9 which is a cool sequence of sorts. The spare has the long valve extension and the 4 wheels on the car have what appears to be matching Dill caps.

[Daytona Z]

That's good to know William.

I never checked the numbers or gave them much thought. Just assumed they were 1970 style covers because of the drippers and was told that the late cars had dripper covers showing up.

[william]

Original covers become tarnished; no one restored them back then. Very late production cars such as yours did have the drippers.

[Daytona Z]

Thanks William.

I started seeing more valve cover restoration efforts in the last 20 years or so as the emphasis became more about originality than available replacement parts. And I agree that some items are considered more "consumable" than others. I did see the 140 part numbers when I first opened the covers to inspect the heads but immediately saw the drippers and said to myself, OK these are wrong! After learning that the late cars actually had drippers, it was kind of back of mind so I never gave them another thought. 

Appreciate the sharp eye to bring this back to mind, and totally agree with what you're saying.

[Daytona Z]

When the car was delivered it had a bit of an odor which smelled a lot like moth balls. In an effort to clean and deodorize the car, I removed the seats to further inspect the carpets and rule out any mouse nests while cleaning it. Checking the cowl plenum and throughout the interior, all I found was further evidence of a clean dry car that has never seen any rodents, humidity, moisture or condensation. I say that because the floors under the original carpets are dry with clean original paint and the underside of the dash/cowl showing no rust or flash staining. Furthermore, all of the window channels appear as clean and dry as the rest of the car. In other words, zero rust and no decay to be found anywhere in this car. Even the seat frames and seat backs appear like new. Having said that, I'm convinced the car was always stored in a dry climate controlled environment.

[z28z11]

Another late year production change were the valve covers which got the dripper style aluminum covers. Myself, I prefer having the drippers in there.

What a time capsule - wish all of us could be so lucky. Harks back to '73 when I landed mine, wish I had left it alone as this one appears to have been.

I'll say this - drippers or not, I learned the first time I adjusted the valves to go buy a set of Comp Cams oil deflectors, after pumping a couple of quarts (exaggeration !) of hot oil all over the fender. I didn't realize what "high volume" really meant with a Z oil pump. My covers (right and left) carry the same 2418 part number, no drippers, 01C build. Wonder when or how late they changed ?

Regards,
Steve

[HustleRussell]

Great car.

I have the same issue with my rear brakes - the drum punchouts have not been removed. Can you get your rear drums off? I think I'm going to have to knock mine out to get them off (unless someone knows a trick).

Note the C removed from the axle code. That's not chance....

I have used two flathead screwdrivers inserted thru slot in back plate. One to push the adjusting lever away from adjusting screw, and the other screwdriver to turn the adjusting
 screw until the drum will slip off. 

[KurtS]

Great!  I hadn't looked closely but I didn't think there was enough room.  Thanks!

[69Z28-RS]

...
My covers (right and left) carry the same 2418 part number, no drippers, 01C build. Wonder when or how late they changed ?

Steve

Very late July or early August '69 the dripper valve covers began being used...

[Daytona Z]

I haven't posted here in a while so I thought I'd take a few minutes to add some pictures and the car being cleaned up on the underside. With the driveline now out of the car, I'm currently working to remove all of the black spray paint added by the previous owner and that's coming along nicely. In doing so, I am also finding some cool stuff like panel stampings and some paint marks from the factory that were previously hidden. Haven't really got into cleaning the front end suspension parts or the front brakes yet but already have seen 4/5 paint daubs that will warrant some gentle cleaning while working them back into plain view. Having a lot of fun with this as I learn many things about this original car and Camaro's in general that I never knew about before. It's been very rewarding thus far. Working my way forward and started on the rear undercarriage. It will all be done and assembled back in time for spring.


Yellow paint found daub on centre link


Indiction of some paint marks on the yet to be cleaned front suspension


Both sides have orange paint on the rear knuckles


Going to try and save this label when I get to the dust shields.


Original sub-frame bushings still in place throughout the car.


Build/job number found on top of the original tank.


Original fuel tank being cleaned up with paint removal underway.


Original front springs have since been cleaned up and will go back into the car


The motor is out and paint will be dialed back using steam perhaps?


Diff is out of the car for easy access to cleaning the housing and rear floors.

[Daytona Z]

Additional pictures showing the lower floors being cleaned up and stripped of black spray paint that the previous owner added. The car is progressing along nicely now.


Broken lower leaf found - drivers side.


Lloyd Costley comes up big with a gratuitist spare provided from one of his original sets!


Trunk floor and rear panel view after some cleaning


Lot's of gray primer was to be found around this car.


Inner returns cleaned up nicely. Trying not to overdo things here.


Original fisher body stamping on the lower return - drivers side


Everything in the rear axle tunnel is now cleaned up and done


Found a T41 date stamping in the floor. I never knew about these until another member educated me on the subject. :-)


Skipping ahead to the inner fenders which have now received some cleaning to remove paint.

I still have a couple of weeks of cleaning to get through with most of the front end and lower suspension to be done. Once I'm through the engine bay, the diff and the driveline will be going back in. That's when I'll drop the front suspension and start detailing each side independently. Should be back on the road in April.

[firstgenaddict]

God I remember doing all of that on the Black RSZ - smelly and ruthlessly obnoxious... I don't know how many times I cussed the rattle can morons... however the paint saved all of the original phosphates and zinc plating on the black car...
You did great on removing the paint on the inner fenders... Can't wait to see the finished vehicle.

[Daytona Z]

Floors are turning out really nice. I have most of them done now from the seats back including the tunnel. Car is up in the air today and I just put new filters on my full face mask and I don't smell anything at all? Keeps any drips out of my eyes as well. You can see me working in the engine bay in the fist shot, and the second one shows the mask I am using.


That be me inside the engine bay while cleaning.


I always wear a mask with chemicals and solvents in a confined space. Also, I open the door now and then to clear the room. No open flames or sparks either.

[Daytona Z]

Here are a few pics of the floors after cleaning them up. Still have a lot of the front to complete.

[firstgenaddict]

I wear a full face respirator as well... I cannot stand crap in my eyes, plus with the double valving for breathing your eyes get filtered air as well and there is no fog whatsoever.

FWIW on your valve covers you are looking for the twist in cap with EQUAL LENGTH recess slots (the shorter of the two on yours) on the top of the cover.
The equal length (approx 3") with twist in cap is 69 and 70.
71-72 had equal length with a smooth hole for push in rubber cap.
73 and up covers used a twist in cap with a longer recess on the passenger top rear to clear the EGR valve boss on the intake. (which also makes the drivers front top recess slot longer)