69 Coil Wire Issue

[gbowman]

I recently installed a Pertronix distributor module and Flame Thrower coil in my small block 69. I'm in the process of replacing the carb and was looking for a (12V switch on) source to hook up the electric choke. So I turned the switch on to the run position and was testing wires with my test light when I noticed smoke coming from the wiring harness on the driver's side, not good! I pulled all the tape off that hadn't already melted and isolated the cause as the resistor wire that comes off the positive side of the coil going to the fuse box bulkhead. When the switch is on, (car not running), the wire gets $hit hot very quickly, (too hot to touch) and starts smoking. Even with the car running, it still gets too hot to touch. Changed the coil out with the original known good coil, same result, very hot wire in a matter of seconds. Don't see any blown fuses. My only thought at this point is maybe the resistor wire is not heavy enough of a gauge to carry the voltage since I did away with the points. Any and all advice will be much appreciated. Thanks.

[Sauron327]

Pertronix requires a 12 volt source, you should not be using the factory resistor wire. Read the installation instructions. Breakerless SE utilizes the stock resistor wire, unlike Pertronix.

[gbowman]

OK, thanks. I'll take a look this afternoon when I get home. I assume I'll have to run another wire to accomplish what you're describing. Thanks again.

[crossboss]

Pertronix has a failure rate over 50%. Junk in my opinion. Would never use/buy it. Some of my Ford buddies have had the same issues on their cars. There are better choices. Just me...

[gbowman]

First one I've tried so I can't attest to their reliability, However, a friend of mine has had one in a big block 427 Camaro for several years and not experienced any issues. Thanks for the comments.

[HawkX66]

I and many other guys have been running Pertronix in our OE distributors for years without any issues. The so called "failure rate" is mostly if not all due to poor installations. When I ran my Pertronix I used the factory coil wire to trigger a relay that provides the full 12 volts that the Pertronix needs.

[gbowman]

I talked to Pertronix today and the tech told me to take the stock resistor wire out of the circuit and install a new switched wire to the positive side of the coil to provide constant 12V when the key is in the run position. Guess we'll see how that works today. Thanks again for all the input.

[crossboss]

I and many other guys have been running Pertronix in our OE distributors for years without any issues. The so called "failure rate" is mostly if not all due to poor installations. When I ran my Pertronix I used the factory coil wire to trigger a relay that provides the full 12 volts that the Pertronix needs.

Yes, I agree 'some' failures are the cause of bad installs. However, I should have been more clear on my comments: Pertronix DOES have quality issues that can be compared to the older Mallory Unilites that just give out at a moments notice. Some will die in minutes, some will run for a couple months. However, you are one of the 'lucky ones' with good results. If you are happy, by all means keep it. All I am saying there are better choices than a Pertronix ignition. Personally, I prefer the OEM electronic set ups because well…they are OEM and dead nuts reliable. Again, just my opinion.

[gbowman]

Problem solved. Thanks for all the input.

[67jeffreyt]

I use the XRI kit, and it states to keep the factory resistance wire,  glad to see you got it resolved.

[69Z28-RS]

......
 I prefer the OEM electronic set ups because well…they are OEM and dead nuts reliable. Again, just my opinion.

I wouldn't argue that the OEM is generally (always?) better than anything aftermarket, but I'm not aware of a 'factory/OEM electronic module that can be added internal to an older distributor to convert it to electronic... Are you?  If so, I'd love to know ..   

The REASON that most of us who have used or continue to use the Pertronix module is that it allows us to retain our original distributor (body) and eliminate the points/condensor!

[BillOhio]

The XRI kit from fast sounds simple.

[Kelley W King]

Not on a 69 camaro but some of my older cars with the ceramic resistor I hid a jumper around the resistor to make it look factory.

[crossboss]

......
 I prefer the OEM electronic set ups because well…they are OEM and dead nuts reliable. Again, just my opinion.

I wouldn't argue that the OEM is generally (always?) better than anything aftermarket, but I'm not aware of a 'factory/OEM electronic module that can be added internal to an older distributor to convert it to electronic... Are you?  If so, I'd love to know ..   

The REASON that most of us who have used or continue to use the Pertronix module is that it allows us to retain our original distributor (body) and eliminate the points/condensor!

I can totally relate to keeping the original distributor. This is why 'retro fit' electronic conversions are very popular. When I said I prefer OEM set ups, I should have mentioned the brand X versions, like Ford's Dura-Spark II, and Mopars 'gold' box. For the Chevy, it gets a bit harder. Most GM guys (now) don't want to use the big ugly HEI cap/coil combo. As one member mentioned, XRI is a better alternative than a failure prone Pertronix. There are actually several other companies that offer electronic conversions, like Accel, Crane, Speedway, Summit, and I believe MSD does too. Also, Davis 'DUI' products are quite good, and he offers stock replacements with electronic ignitions. IF you can find the vintage Hays 'Stinger' conversion, it was THE set up back in the day.

[Kelley W King]

There were GM transitor ignition set ups but I do not think anyone repops them are the originals are unobtainable price wise.