Dash Top Assembly question

[Roadent56]

1967 I'm in the middle of replacing the cowl sides the entire plenum and the dash top. All were rotted out. I have the ends and the plenum pretty well fitted and tweaked to fit. I'm now working on the dash top panel. The old one had some sort of seal or rubber insulator 1/4" in diameter that ran all the way across at the back edge of the plenum. It appeared to seal or vibration dampen the underside of the dash top to the upper back edge of the plenum. Can anyone tell me where to find an assembly document or picture that shows what goes in there?
Thank You

[Roadent56]

Had one more image to add

[Sauron327]

It was weld-through sealer. I use panel adhesive for dashtops. If you are going to weld it, just use seam sealer after installation.

[Roadent56]

Thank You!
I will plan on sealing after the welding

[HOGDADDY]

I noticed the same sealer piece there and also in the quarter panel lips which in my opinion contributed to those area holding moisture and causing rust.

[manyc]

Note sure if you need any advice, but  when I did mine last year I bought a Golden Star version of the dash top panel. It is the best repo part on the market (to my surprise).  Also I fitted the dash pad, A-pillar moldings and defrost duct to it before welding it in place.  I just used seam sealer applied to the outside and inside underneath to make things waterproof. -Chris

[Roadent56]

Just curious,
Why did you have to fit the A -pillar moldings before you welded it? Was it a had to, or chose to, and how much fitting was required.
Thanks

[manyc]

It's the only way I could set the front to back alignment of the dash top panel before welding it in. If the panel is too far forward or too far back the A-pillar moldings won't fit properly.  The way I did it was to tack welded the new top panel to the top of the dash face panel using the factory alignment holes for alignment.  I put the dash pad and plastic A-pillar moldings in place. That pretty much holds the top dash panel in correct location. then I tacked the top panel down, pulled the moldings and dash pad and welded the outboard tangs to the A-pillars (pic attached). Then it was a matter of just welding it in.  Overall it was a very easy process. I was quite surprised with how well it went with a repo China part.

-Chris

[firstgenaddict]

There is a panel foam in the dash area where you are referencing to minimize harmonic drumming.
Once the integrity of the seal in is breached and A PINHOLE forms the water is held in place by the foam and then the rot will progress behind the scenes... and that scene has about 4 layers of metal in there...
The firewall, the cowl wiper recess bowl area, the upper cowl  Wiper support (where the VIN is stamped), and FINALLY the dash TOP.

the foam is also between the outer wheelhouses and the quarter panels for the same purpose... cars restored without the foam or without something in place of it may experience drumming of the panels.

[firstgenaddict]

The SEAM SEALER is used where the panels overlap and have an edge where water could migrate.