67 RS headlight motor issue

[Dave Caine]

Can someone please point me in a direction?

1967 Rally Sport Headlight door function issue:
Everything is brand new and when I hit the HL switch for the first time, it all worked perfectly. Opened as they should and then closed as they should when commanded.
Next day, I hit it again and the doors opened but kept "cycling" at the "open" limit switch on BOTH sides. Turn it off and they close as they should, no issue.
Tried with key off, HLs on, the doors do this "cycling". Turn HL switch off (w/ key off) and cycling stops, doors stay open as they should until I turn key on (with HLs off) and then doors close as they should.
So its just on the open command.

I found lots of great wiring pics & info in here when I installed everything but I must be searching poorly as I cannot find anything pertaining to this scenario.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
David

[169INDY]

While I only have Vac power headlight cars, I have a photo copy of a nice troubleshooting guide I can scan (Tonight) & send to you.
I hope it may be helpful, (?not sure?)

JIM

[rick 67]

https://www.facebook.com/rick.barrett.965/media_set?set=a.10151302994429803&type=3&fb_dtsg_ag=AdzNr_1Xhku8aeeN7V_Hfy6aDA1whFli0GtVe_WirD5MjA%3AAdxKA3j_k8umybwEVpOP_KLa1k76YRhqy0meucB7jGYqWg

Check the double bounce in the retro electric trouble shooting part. Another cause could be both doors not making full contact with the open limit switch. Some shimming of the switches may be required.

 Rick

[maroman]

As suggested use the GM trouble shooting guide. It works, and tells you what order to check things in.

[Dave Caine]

I have the assembly manual and two small instructional booklets, one is for 1967 Camaro wiring and the other is specifically for RS HL wiring and it has a trouble shooting guide but regarding this, simply says a switch is bad. But I'd be happy to read anything pertaining to this type of issue so please forward or tell me where to find.
It worked, and then stopped and its both sides on the same motion. Heck of a coincidence.
I physically engaged the limits switches and it did not stop the "cycling".

Rick67, I had found that link in my earlier searches and those pics were very helpful on initial assembly! I was amazed at how easily everything fell into place. I looked up the trouble shooting chart and it says:
"Double bounce is usually caused by slop in the door bushings or slop in the drive washers. This will not damage the Retro Electro motors." Everything is brand new, bushings, bolts, etc ... the doors are nice and snug and have no extra play. The actuating arms also have no play. I moved everything manually during set up to ensure everything was aligned properly and all four switches were engaging, and it worked perfectly ... once.

[Kelley W King]

It has been too long ago for me to help. Now you know why you see so many with the doors open all the time.

[rick 67]

I have the assembly manual and two small instructional booklets, one is for 1967 Camaro wiring and the other is specifically for RS HL wiring and it has a trouble shooting guide but regarding this, simply says a switch is bad. But I'd be happy to read anything pertaining to this type of issue so please forward or tell me where to find.
It worked, and then stopped and its both sides on the same motion. Heck of a coincidence.
I physically engaged the limits switches and it did not stop the "cycling".

Rick67, I had found that link in my earlier searches and those pics were very helpful on initial assembly! I was amazed at how easily everything fell into place. I looked up the trouble shooting chart and it says:
"Double bounce is usually caused by slop in the door bushings or slop in the drive washers. This will not damage the Retro Electro motors." Everything is brand new, bushings, bolts, etc ... the doors are nice and snug and have no extra play. The actuating arms also have no play. I moved everything manually during set up to ensure everything was aligned properly and all four switches were engaging, and it worked perfectly ... once.

  David so you had initial success. I am electrically challenged so this was a big project. Mine were all there but unhooked and the switches in the glove box the relays all unplugged and all the wires tucked away so you couldn't see them. A daunting task. I had a wiring diagram in the paperwork I received that was from two previous owners ago. Yeah pretty alien to me. So I started searching and found Team Camaro and GRG. Through different threads I found bits an pieces of info. Finally figuring out where everything went. I documented and took pics as I put mine together. My first assumption was that I would get them back together and they wouldn't work. But lo and behold both doors opened but kept running. (familiar) The most common problem with the doors are bad grounds and the doors not fully activating the switches. Everything to do with your headlights right to the high beam switch can cause the doors to malfunction. Even a burnt out high beam can cause problems. That being said check all the grounds,  switches, headlights. hope you used the star washers as they bite into the metal. Next is switch contacts. (this was my problem) With someone else on the headlight switch turn them on. When opened and still running push the door firmly against the open switch. If it stops then the switch or switches need some adjustment. Mine have been trouble free for 6 years so that is as far as I ever had to go.

Rcik

[rick 67]

Oh it took about 14 hours to fine tune them over two days.

Rick

[Dave Caine]

Thanks Rick!
Grounds always seem to be the "go to" on this thing. they have bit me before and are possibly biting again. I'll check it out for sure.

[bergy]

I had the same problem with the doors "bouncing" against the radiator support limit when light switch was turned on.  Just needed to tighten up the nut on the friction washer (the passenger side was the problem for me) so that the door stayed pressed against the limit switch.  Not sure if that's your issue, but it seemed to solve my problem.