Upper A-arm Splash Shields

[ZLP955]

Tim, I found what I used and they were REM. Let me know how much material you want from the sheet I have and will send to you if you want to cut ones out. I will load a picture and post of that material.

Thanks Chick. I looked up R.E.M. Automotive and they have a large number of vendors selling their products (http://www.remautoinc.com/links.php). If the shields I ordered don't meet expectations (I have no reason to think that), I will try contacting one of the authorised vendors to find the R.E.M. version.

[DAVEN1256]

I hope this isn't high jacking the thread but it seems pertinent to what is being discussed.

I was wondering how everyone who has installed the splash shields is bending over their staples?

I had bought a set of OER splash shields which were the thin (bicycle tube) rubber. I used them because I didn't realize at the time that there was better stuff out there. I installed them on my inner fenders before the inner fenders went in the car. These OER's were so bad that they started falling apart under their own weight. I saw something on the ground under the car one day and it was pieces of the splash shield. They just split apart at the staples and fell off! And the car hasn't even been driven since the splash shields were installed. There's no engine in it yet. This happened with the car standing still!

So anyhow, I have new ones now that I bought from Metro Rubber which are much more like the originals. Now I have to install them with the inner fenders in the car. Thankfully, there is no engine in the way but much less access to some of the staple locations..........So I'm curious as to how everyone is able to bend the staples over nice and tight and not mar any paint.

Thanks......Dave

[BillOhio]

I did chip a little paint but I touched it up with a brush. Like what you would find in a model kit. To get them really tight I had to have someone on the inside of the car with a dolly and I used to punch or something and tap the staple tight.

[ZLP955]

The reproduction set from Steele Rubber arrived a few days ago, but owing to tackling a long list of jobs on the house, I only just got around to having a good look at them. The appearance looks very much like the pictures posted by Hans (reply 34) and Chick (reply 39). Somewhat of a glossier finish, good texture, albeit no significant visible string/cord fibers.
I will take some reference photos and post them in the next few days.
Overall I'm pleased with the quality of Steele's product. I noted some previous suggestions to give them a light hit with the DA sander to reduce the gloss and show a bit o' fiber, but wonder if maybe the appearance we see on survivors is possibly age and wear, and they started out somewhat closer to how the better reproduction pieces look?

[KK302]

Tim, I found what I used and they were REM. Let me know how much material you want from the sheet I have and will send to you if you want to cut ones out. I will load a picture and post of that material.

Thanks Chick. I looked up R.E.M. Automotive and they have a large number of vendors selling their products (http://www.remautoinc.com/links.php). If the shields I ordered don't meet expectations (I have no reason to think that), I will try contacting one of the authorised vendors to find the R.E.M. version.

I put each staple through the inner fender and rubber shield and bent the two ends of each staple over with needle nose pliers. Then I masked off the outside (finished side) of the inner fender where the staple heads were located and used a hammer and dolly. The dolly went on the (taped) outside of the staple head, and hammering was done on the inside of the inner fender to each staple end to fully bend them over and get them tight.

[Dave69x33]

Hello CRG,

I just received a splash shield set BDY-1213 from Heartbeat City. They were made by R.E.M. and they are not correct. I am returning them. The mater is a rubber cork material rather than the fiber rubber material. The lower driver’s side shield that fits below the firewall electrical harness connector is die cut with holes for screws. They should be stapled to the bracket and not screwed on. Dissatisfied with them. Normally the products from HBC are good. Here are some pics.

[169INDY]

I use Restorations Specialties Masticated Rubber Sheet raw and trace and Cut.

[169INDY]

https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/masticated-rubber-1-8-36-x-18-half-square-yard-universal/?msclkid=6641961e0e231f50e350f2525bc1885f

[Dave69x33]

Sorry, the pics I took with my iPhone were too large to post. Will downsize them and repost.

[Dave69x33]

Jim,

What did you use to cut the material?

How did you punch the holes at the end of the slits in the large pieces?

Dave

[169INDY]

I traced the Cracked, Split originals using a Silver ink pen (Remove tracing with Laq thinner after as needed), then a Nice Sharp pair of Fiskers scissors and Harbor Freith "Hole' Punches for the tight radius, duplicating those punch holes. I think Lloyd  or Chick used a sander (DA) to 'abrade' and expose the cotton fibers. I was happy with the material as arrived. Since I really only needed ONE.  Come to think about it Lloyd found a Oldsmobile rubber to "Harvest GM" Material for a truly correct appearance.
I found my method to be better than the Smooth plain rubber aftermarket material that really looks out of place as a reasonable compromise.

[Sauron327]

I've made my own years ago for customers. Too much work now. Repops are accurate. I still have a roll of correct material from Restoration Parts. Not worth it to use. Way too many jobs lined up to bother.  I'll use it for my work table.

[Dave69x33]

Here is a picture of the splash shields made by R.E.M. (www.REMAUTOINC.com) I purchased from Heartbeat City Camaro last week, product BDY-1213, for $21.22.  Notice the material is an incorrect rubber-cork rather than the more correct masticated rubber like Hans L shows above in his post #34, and in Chick's post #39.  The R.E.M. material thickness measures between 0.091 - 0.092 inches.  I did find that Steele Rubber Products now offers a die cut 5-piece kit 70-3332-45, for the '67 - '69 Camaro that includes the staples for $45.89.  It's twice the price but a more accurate repro part (if that is what you are after).

Has anyone recently used the Steele's kit?  Does it have holes punched in the shield that installs on the bracket and clip (see janobyte's post #35) in the lower driver's side under the master brake cylinder?  My hope is that this shield DOES NOT have the holes punched in it so I can stapled to the bracket.

Thanks,
Dave

[Sauron327]

I own a resto shop and do this daily. Not sure why people on this site do do dot this 24/7 in the biz. I just charge the customer.

[Sauron327]

Here is a picture of the splash shields made by R.E.M. (www.REMAUTOINC.com) I purchased from Heartbeat City Camaro last week, product BDY-1213, for $21.22.  Notice the material is an incorrect rubber-cork rather than the more correct masticated rubber like Hans L shows above in his post #34, and in Chick's post #39.  The R.E.M. material thickness measures between 0.091 - 0.092 inches.  I did find that Steele Rubber Products now offers a die cut 5-piece kit 70-3332-45, for the '67 - '69 Camaro that includes the staples for $45.89.  It's twice the price but a more accurate repro part (if that is what you are after).

Garbage. Why did you buy them?

Has anyone recently used the Steele's kit?  Does it have holes punched in the shield that installs on the bracket and clip (see janobyte's post #35) in the lower driver's side under the master brake cylinder?  My hope is that this shield DOES NOT have the holes punched in it so I can stapled to the bracket.

Thanks,
Dave