Trans Shifting Issue

[dannystarr]

Can't drain overnight. M/21 has no drain plug, only fill plug. I was thinking of drilling the drain boss area and taping it. But I better not. Could devalue the original trans. I might try changing it twice like I mentioned and drive it and see what happens. Gotta get to a job... Danny

[bcmiller]

Use a pump to get the oil out. Put the hose in as much toward the bottom of the trans as you can. Pump it out. Wait a while until it drains a bit more, then pump it out again.

Honestly I think that will be enough. Then refill with regular gear oil.

Sorry to hear of your memory issues. It gradually happens to all of us as we get older.

[joesauer]

Danny,

If you are still in Sonoma Cty., give Horgans Transmissions in San Rafael a call.  They may lend you the pump, etc. needed to get the synthetic out.   May have to leave them a deposit.

[dannystarr]

I am heading to Charlie's{Hubleyman} in Petaluma tom morn. What a blessing it was to meet him on THIS site. Hope he feels somewhat the same 
 He has helped me SO much. Going to put it up on the lift and change the oil, go for a drive and do it again. Oil is cheap enough. He has the pump there I think. I will update. Going to just stay with the High Zinc Lucas classic car motor oil also. Danny

[dannystarr]

UPDATE... Put the car on the lift and sucked out the synthetic trans fluid. Put in Sta-Lube/CRC 85/90 Multi-Purpose API/GL4 Gear Oil. Took the car for a 5 mile ride. Put the car back up and drained that out and filled again. Took a 10 mile ride down Hwy 101. Came back and sucked that oil out and filled with PennGrade 80/90 API GL4 Classic, Multi-Purpose Gear Oil. Shifts MUCH better and hoping it will get better with a little mileage and time. I will change it out again in 2 or 3 months. Still takes a little effort to get in to first gear at a stop. But not NEAR as much as before. I have become sort of an expert. Danny 

[Kelley W King]

Drive it further. You want the oil to get hot and thin out to work up into the sliders and inside the brass rings. If you stick to short trips it could take a while but one long trip should do it. Even in neutral with clutch out most parts are rotating.

[dannystarr]

I figured, I may just put 100 miles on her over the weekend, then change it. We'll see... The main thing is, it looks like that was the issue, and it may only get better. Going to stick with the Lucas High Zinc for classic cars in the motor. Next week I will be changing the rear axle fluid with the Penn/Grade... D

[olddragracer]

Sounds like you need to replace the clutch and pilot bushing. Try shifting into reverse while stopped, if transmission grinds after a short wait time clutch or pilot bushing dragging is your problem. If no grinding and reverse goes in smoothly maybe the  new lube is your problem.

[dannystarr]

Going in to reverse is SO sporadic it can't be used to diagnose. There are no synchros for reverse. Some days it drops right in, other days I put the trans in first and second two times then throw it in reverse. Other days I let the clutch out slightly and it drops in. Other days I move the car slightly forward in first gear FIRST, then throw it in reverse and it FALLS in. Both of my cars are different at any given time and condition. Replaced the Clutch/Pressure Plate/Throw-out Bearing/Pilot Bushing. Resurfaced the flywheel, as it had NEVER been touched. Still had the full side bevel, factory texture and of course, heat cracks. Danny
 P.S.
Olddragracer... welcome to the site! You have a Camaro?..

[olddragracer]

It is true there is no syncro in reverse that is why you use reverse to diagnose a clutch release problem. Depress the clutch, engine at idle, wait 3 to 5 seconds depending on engine RPM, shift directly into reverse and if gears grind you have a clutch release problem!  The problems you describe are typical complaints for a clutch problem. Remember the pilot bushing, an old worn or a new but dry bushing can cause the transmission input shaft to turn with the engine causing problems you describe.   Yes I have a 67 coupe I have been working on for a very long time

[bcmiller]

UPDATE... Put the car on the lift and sucked out the synthetic trans fluid. Put in Sta-Lube/CRC 85/90 Multi-Purpose API/GL4 Gear Oil. Took the car for a 5 mile ride. Put the car back up and drained that out and filled again. Took a 10 mile ride down Hwy 101. Came back and sucked that oil out and filled with PennGrade 80/90 API GL4 Classic, Multi-Purpose Gear Oil. Shifts MUCH better and hoping it will get better with a little mileage and time. I will change it out again in 2 or 3 months. Still takes a little effort to get in to first gear at a stop. But not NEAR as much as before. I have become sort of an expert. Danny 

Seriously, you don’t need the expensive gear oil. In fact, the cheap stuff I mentioned is actually what I have found to work BEST. 

[dannystarr]

Oh ok, my mistake. I will try that over the weekend. Took it for a ride tonight about 70 miles. It DID seem like a clutch issue at first but then it works perfectly when the car is rolling. I mean it FALLS into gear just as long as you are moving at least a mile an hour. So I figured it was releasing enough. I have it adjusted with about an inch and a half play. Might change that to the standard inch next time it's in the air. I do know the fluid played a part of this. Maybe not all of it, but surely some of the issue. Cause nothing else was changed. Thanx for your time everyone on this... Danny

[bcmiller]

You have changed it twice already. I would say keep what you have in there for a few MONTHS and then maybe change again.

Changing to standard clutch adjustment may help a bit too. What clutch are you running?

[Stingr69]

The clutch free play is supposed to be 1" at the pedal, measured with finger pressure.  If you adjust it with 1.5" of free travel it will not be releasing all the way and it will be difficult to get into reverse.  Fix that first adjustment and see if it helps.

[olddragracer]

The clutch free play of 1 inch is used to allow for wear of the clutch components in particular the disk. As wear occurs free play diminishes.  Setting the free play near zero and driving the car [normal driving] will allow you to see if setting of free play or amount of pedal travel is your problem. If pilot bushing or clutch itself is the problem the minimal free play usually does not help the problem. Do not try hard acceleration with minimal free play as clutch damage can occur.