Buying date correct alternator 1967 327/210/2bbl build date 2/16/1967

[1967butternut]

I know there are a lot of topics about what date is correct and I think I have that understood. My 67 was built Feb 16, 1967 in Van Nuys (NCRS letter), so I'm figuring an alternator date code of 7A(16-31) or 7B(1-7) approx. opinions on that?

My question is more about the best way to obtain an actual working date coded 1100693 .

My car has a perfectly good alternator, unfortunately back in the days this was my daily driver and when the alternator went out I simply took it to the parts store as a core and bought a replacement.

I wasn't concerned about "correct" just needed something working.

So now when I go looking for one like I gave away back then what are my choices? On eBay they pop up all the time like this one for $90 with shipping http://r.ebay.com/FGJ27t

But they are almost all sold as "rebuildable core", so after I have it, should I send it to someone like this eBay seller https://www.ebay.com/itm/NCRS-Rebuilding-Service-of-your-1963-69-Corvette-or-Chevrolet-Alternator/263051496031?hash=item3d3f174a5f:g:xe4AAOSwjvJZTCCm

Who advertises to rebuild/restore for $375 plus shipping?

Or is there a better way? Related question, the original alternator being only 37A, could the internals be upgraded to say 55A output?

Side note, the alternator in my car now is model #1100692, 55AMP, Delco dated 6C25, if I could figure out what that was for maybe I could sell it for big bucks!

Sorry this got long, thanks for any input.

Current alternator

[KevinW]

I took mine to a local alternator rebuilder who put 100Amp guts in for around $100.  While not a concours resto, they did a good job to make it look good.  Maybe you can get lucky locally.

[ko-lek-tor]

My question is more about the best way to obtain an actual working date coded 1100693 ...

So now when I go looking for one like I gave away back then what are my choices? On eBay they pop up all the time like this one for $90...

But they are almost all sold as "rebuildable core", so after I have it, should I send it to someone

Or is there a better way? Related question, the original alternator being only 37A, could the internals be upgraded to say 55A output?
...the alternator in my car now is model #1100692...?

I have several 693s and I would sell for less. There is a place near me that rebuilds for about $50, I have so many alternators , I just rob parts from other ones and “ rebuild” * my own to keep mine going. Yes, it can be upgraded to a 55 amp or any amp you want as well as it can be modified to have an internal regulator, like a 10SI, and also can be modified with an exciter of a lower rpm threshold, meaning to alternator charging can start with very little rpm- handy if you idle a lot.
1100692 Pontiac 65-6 Boneville, Grand Prix
* I would imagine for $375 it would be shiny as new and have ink stamps and plated pieces replaced with newly plated? Mine have none of that, but when I do one, it is cleaned thoroughly and functional, but looks like a survivor quality job. The shop for $50 or whatever will do the same and use new bearings, brushes and replace whatever else is needed, but it will not be a “show” restoration , like the E-Bay  ad you cite.

[bcmiller]

You might want to send a private message to Bentley and work something out.

The 1100692 alternator had more than one GM application, but I don't think any of those were for Chevrolet in 1966 or 1967. 

[bcmiller]

One dated January of 67 would probably be best, or maybe December of 66.

[1967butternut]

Thanks for all the feedback!

First it's great to know it is possible to have a vintage alternator rebuilt without a total restoration process. There is nothing on my car that is show quality, clean, original, and drivable is all I'm after.

I'm in Memphis, TN if anyone happens to know a reliable shop that does this work in my area.

Sending a PM to James (Hopefully Bentley soon)

One dated January of 67 would probably be best, or maybe December of 66.

So did the California built cars have a longer lead time on parts than Norwood? I was looking at late 7A or first week 7B's but sounds like early 7A's would be more correct. Wish I knew what the one I gave to the auto parts store 30+ years ago was dated.

[1967butternut]

I happen to have the original distributor out of the car for the first time ever. (151,000 miles and 51 years!)

It's date coded 7A 13

So wouldn't it make sense the alternator would have a date close to that? Or are they unrelated due to suppliers?

[Mike S]

 The distributor was installed when the motor was assembled.  The alternator was installed on the motor when the car was assembled so its date would be closer to the trim tag date period. The standard amperage alternator was a quickly consumed item so it could be reasonably close to the car assembly date. My 67 L35 with the standard 37A alternator has a May 5, 67 stamp and the car was assembled the 2nd week of May 67. But my other 67 L35 (April 67) with the optional higher (44A) amperage alternator is dated Jan 30, 67.

Here are previous discussions on alternator vs. car build dates:
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=cjovfnsrrmiritd3qohgdlbov2&topic=11931.0
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=13254.msg113669#msg113669

Mike

[1967butternut]

The distributor was installed when the motor was assembled.  The alternator was installed on the motor when the car was assembled so its date would be closer to the trim tag date period.
...
Mike

Thanks Mike, that makes sense. I had read those other two topics and didn't intend for this to be a "what date is correct" discussion, but glad to have that info.

Mostly I'm trying to figure what to do AFTER I have the correct date coded core. I'd like to deal with a local rebuilder near Memphis but would ship it if I had to. It looks like it's pretty easy to find a 693 on eBay with a 7A15+ date for about $75 that needs a rebuild.

Not wanting the $400+ "show quality" restoration, just a good original equipment working and clean looking alternator (with maybe an internal upgrade from the 37A output).

I'd appreciate if anyone has first hand knowledge of shops in the Memphis TN area.

[KurtS]

Or is there a better way? Related question, the original alternator being only 37A, could the internals be upgraded to say 55A output?

What problem are you trying to fix? More output for what reason? There are very low electrical loads in an original car.
What matters more than a number is when it's generating that output (the shape of the output curve). 55A at 15000 alternator rpm means nothing (how long do you spin your engine that fast?), 15 amps at 2000 alt rpms (about idle) is meaningful.
Idle is a worst-case condition. Very little alternator output. Electric cooling fans are huge draws. On new cars, the alternator can't keep up at idle - the battery is dead after 2 hours of idling.
Also, having the alternator cut-in (turn on) at a lower rpm will not affect its output.

I took my alternator to the local shop. I didn't let him blast the case (oh, he wanted to), but he popped in new diodes and bearings and it's good.