Oil

[wiljoe765]

I need to change oil in my new to me big block 69 RS/SS . What oil should I use? Full synthetic? What weight? Thanks

[joesauer]

I use Joe Gibbs HR-2 non synthetic 10-30 in my 68 350cu in.   Tried synthetic & had trouble (too slick for my older engine).   Like the added zinc & other chemicals in HR-2 = better for my flat tappet engine

[bertfam]

This subject comes up several times a year and everyone has their opinions on what to buy. However, before you spend your hard earned money on "boutique" brands, I suggest you read THIS. The author is Duke Williams and he's probably THE go-to guy when it comes to oil. Do a Google search on him and you'll find a lot of information.

Also, as an update to that article, Duke posts a lot on the NCRS website and here's something he posted last year:

I was at Walmart last week and noticed that some brands have the new CK-4 primary service category and some are still CJ-4. The API and manufacturers state that CK-4 is "fully backwards compatible with prior C-categories." There is also a new FA-4 spec that I will get to shortly. I know many of you are hung up on brand names, but don't just blindly pull something off the shelf because it looks familiar. Verify the the "API donut" on the back carries a primary C-category, which will likely be CK-4 or CJ-4. The FA-4 is for new HD engines that should hit the road this year. They will be available only in xW-30 grades and the emphasis is on lower internal friction for better fuel ecomomy and less CO2. There will also likely be a reduction in "heavy metal" additives, which means less ZDDP. Other anti-wear additive will take their place, but I don't know if they are as effective. New HD engines will have detail internal design changes like bearings and rings to be compatible with FA-4. I have not yet found any detailed FA-4 specs from any manufacturer, so I don't know if they will be suitable for vintage engines with sliding surface valve trains or not, so stick with CK-4 or CJ-4. Next time I buy oil I'll buy the least expensive C-category oil I can find, as I usually do, regardless of whether it's CK-4 or CJ-4. Just make sure you don't buy FA-4 for now.

In regards to the CK-4 or CJ-4, the best deal around is still the Walmart house brand Super-Tech CJ-4. At less than $10 bucks a gallon it meets ALL the requirements of our older engines.

Ed

[Mike S]

 I've been using any good dino 10w-30 oil that is on sale along with a bottle of ZDDP for my 67 L35.
For my  other cars/SUV's I use any good quality oil (whatever the dealer recommends) and have always logged over 250,000 miles on the motors and that is putting close to 7,000 miles oil changes. By the time I get 250K miles I usually buy another car because I get bored with the one I have. Also by that time, the value is way down due to age and mileage so I could never justify the expense of synthetic oil.
 
Mike

[KurtS]

If you want a brand name - Shell Rotella.

[z28z11]

If you want a brand name - Shell Rotella.

Amen. I use this in all my small engines, too. I used to use strictly Castrol, but they pulled the zinc and phosphorus as everyone else. Years ago - Union 76 20W50 oil. 

Regards,
Steve

[BULLITT65]

I noticed Shell Rotella reduced the Zinc of there products in the last couple of years. I am not sure if it was across the board or just in my region.

[Kelley W King]

Since most cars we have run carbs,not FI,and run short trips fuel contamination in the oil to me is more important than brand name. Change it when it smells like gas instead of X miles.

[Sauron327]

Spectro Motor Guard has 1800 PPM zinc and phosphorous.

[68camaroz28]

I noticed Shell Rotella reduced the Zinc of there products in the last couple of years. I am not sure if it was across the board or just in my region.

I read that somewhere in the last couple years also but most of us use Brad Penn oil which is similar to the same thing we used back in the day and its made in Bradford, PA. That is what our engine builder uses and recommends. It's green in color and been around a long time. Some info here: "“the Original Green Oil.” is cut from Pennsylvania Grade Crude Oil from the Bradford Oil Field in Bradford, Pennsylvania, where it was first extracted in 1859. The oil has a unique green color and the ability to stick and cling to metal objects, offering full film strength to the customer. Its enhanced levels of zinc and phosphorous protect vital engine components, and it has been the first choice of engine builders and equipment manufacturers for decades." I purchase it locally at a Oil Distribution Store (does wholesale & retail) but realize for many they have to order it and that becomes expensive.

[Kelley W King]

I remember back in the day using a green oil. I don,t remember it being called Brad Penn. We discussed then that it got darker quicker. The appearance of oil signaled a change since most people did not change by mileage.

[169INDY]

I remember back in the day using a green oil. I don,t remember it being called Brad Penn. We discussed then that it got darker quicker. The appearance of oil signaled a change since most people did not change by mileage.

KENDALL?

[Kelley W King]

Yes, Kendall was it. We used to run it and the only complaint was the color after a while. Course most oil now is so clear you can,t see it on the stick.

[68camaroz28]

I remember back in the day using a green oil. I don,t remember it being called Brad Penn. We discussed then that it got darker quicker. The appearance of oil signaled a change since most people did not change by mileage.

KENDALL?

Bingo, believe you are a winner! Great oil and a lot of car people use it.

[Brent396]

I have been looking into Joe Gibbs 10w40 driven conventional oil for my freshly rebuilt 396.