NOS Engine

[Dusk_Blue_Z]

I purchased an NOS LT-1 short block. Upon inspection, I found a few items that need to be addressed. Was hoping you can provide some guidance.

1. The engine was wrapped in an oily wax paper, which disintegrated over the years and fell into the engine. I've pulled the engine apart and vacuumed much of it out. Would it be OK to power wash the block? If so, do I use soap? Do I need to worry about getting the cam bearings wet? If not power washing, what do you recommend?

2. The engine had been cranked over by hand. There are some oil marks on the rod bearings. Should I get new rod bearings? The main bearings look new.

3. I was given a set of head shims. Are they OK to use or should I get a modern head gasket?

This NOS engine is super cool to look at. It has all kinds of paint splatter and markings on it. I almost feel bad putting it to use. But I'm curious how a little torque is going to feel compared to my 302 

Thanks! Nick

[ko-lek-tor]

Nick
1) take the engine apart and put the power wash to her. Use gunk or similar brand engine degreaser or even can use oven cleaner.  It would be a good idea to remove all block oil galley plugs. No, it will not hurt cam bearings ( or shouldn’t). I would inspect everything nonetheless before reassembly. A compressor to dry off the block and if you have a rifle cleaning brush, run it through the oil galleys. All cavities should be blown out after being washed. And you really don’t need a high pressure sprayer. Regardless of garden hose or h p spray, if you are not soaked and as wet as the block when through, you were not thorough enough.
2) as long as bearing surfaces are not damaged, reuse. Don’t worry about discoloration. Some brakecleen or carb cleaner could be tried to se if it takes off the stains, by all means do not sand or use any abrasive or lint from rags. Best to blow them dry and set out to reinstall. I am a little particular in that I keep everything, bearings-bolts-nuts- rockers in order and put everything back in it’s same place. So each bearing goes back from where it came.
3) I have no idea what shins you are referring to, but newer technology gasket materials are superior, so I would use new gaskets.

[Dusk_Blue_Z]

Thanks for the advice Bentley. I degreased the engine this morning, rinsed with a hose, and spent a lot of time blowing it off/out. I'll reuse the bearings and buy some newer head gaskets. The shims I was referring to are GM p/n 3916336, basically steel head gaskets.

I have a windage tray and oil pan that goes with it. Both these parts are used. The tray has surface rust. Should I be concerned with getting all the surface rust removed?

Sorry my questions are random. This is my first time 'building' an engine.

[cook_dw]

Use Cometic MLS head gaskets.  They are great and seal.  Fel-Pro has some MLS gaskets also but no experience using them.


Evaporust the tray. 

[BULLITT65]

I also like the Cometic MLS head gaskets. Money well spent

[ko-lek-tor]

I am trying to think of the proper tank. So far, all I can think of is a small garbage/waste can. If metal, line with a good garbage bag. It does not matter if the oil pan doesn’t fit all the way down in the can as long as it can go 1/2 way(so you can later pull the part out and invert and put other end to soak. While A product called Evaporust works very well and is ballyhooed by many for how well it works. But I would suggest going to the dollar store a buying 6-7 gallon jugs of white vinegar. One of those kitchen plastic waste baskets, like Rubbermaid, would seem ideal to me.  Empty the vinegar into the waste can and imerse the pan making sure at least 1/2 is submerged. Let pan sit in the vinegar 1-2 days and perhaps longer if very rusty. I use old tooth brushes and wire brushes to scour crevices.  After soaking, remove and hose off pan. Sprinkle baking soda over the outside surface to neutralize the vinegar and aid in drying. Inside the pan spray the whole inner surface with a awD40 type product. Blow off baking soda. Make sure no contaminates are in the inside of the pan. Wipe down with s clean lint free rag and alcohol. Install pan paint on engine. Paint. If you want to over restore the pan, you could prime the outer surface and apply putty sand and spray 2 stage urethane. Or powder coat. Rattle can is my preference.
My reasoning: most all the the tools needed to use Evaporust are the same as what vinegar would use. The vinegar is about a $1.25 a gallon. Evaporust = $20+

[Kelley W King]

I have yet to try the vinegar Bentley but I will. If it does not work I like vinegar in my pinto beans.

[Dusk_Blue_Z]

Awesome, thanks again. I'll give vinegar a shot. If that doesn't work, then try Evaporust.

Here's another one I can't find literature on: is it necessary to degree in a NOS GM camshaft? Did they get degreed in at the assembly plant?

Thanks! Nick

[BULLITT65]

Another idea for a soaking container would be those plastic totes that come with lids. You can find them in all sorts of sizes at walmart. I would think one of the medium long flat ones would work for an oil pan, you could do the top half, soak and then flip it, and have a little more room to work with it. If you got a deeper one, like what they sell for Christmas stuff, then you could soak and put the lid on it if you were worried about fumes/odor.

Bentley has the right idea though, there are many products other than evapo-rust that will get it done.

[ko-lek-tor]

Awesome, thanks again. I'll give vinegar a shot. If that doesn't work, then try Evaporust.

Here's another one I can't find literature on: is it necessary to degree in a NOS GM camshaft? Did they get degreed in at the assembly plant?

Thanks! Nick

Degree- not done at factory. Not necessary. But make sure chain is on right, aligning the marks. If you have those kind of tools ( dial indicator) once you button up the bottom end , put timing cover on and balancer, I believe that finding true TDC and making sure your timing marks align is more important. If you have an adjustable cam you could make sure the cam is running straight up, meaning the cam opens and closes to spec or very close. If you don’t have an adjustable chain, there is no point in doing anything because you couldn’t do anything to change it without modifying timing set. My opinion, stick it in there and go. This applies to stock GM cams. High lift should always be checked for Valve to Piston clearance. I would say as a rule anything over .520 lift on a sbc.

[cook_dw]

The OCD in me would degree the cam anyways.  That way you know where it is and what you have at the given duration, centerline, LSA.  Degree wheels are cheap and handy.  But if you do not care about all the technical stuff then just slap it together and align the marks, verify TDC and the marks align on the timing gears and again on the timing tab and balancer.  Of course I also believe in adjustable timing sets so you can adjust the cam in relation to the rotating assembly.  I like tunability on how I want the engine to perform with a given cam.


A small tip would be to soak the timing chain in a zip-lock baggie of oil so the chain is having a dry start.  Helps against the initial chain stretch.

[BillOhio]

how about some pictures of the paint markings

[Dusk_Blue_Z]

The vinegar method is sweet. I soaked some parts overnight. I should have done a before/after. Attached is a pic of the after, I still need to wipe it down some. I used a vinegar concentrate cleaner from Menards.

[Dusk_Blue_Z]

Here are some pics of the markings I mentioned. Again, I probably should have taken more before I cleaned the block up.

[Dusk_Blue_Z]

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