Palmetto Entrprises

[169INDY]

I think the flakes might be "SALTS" precipitation, Filter them out with a coffee filter- one possible "solution" (Pun intended!)
I need to purchase some Ph testing strips to keep tabs on my concentration levels and "sweeten" the solution periodically to maintain effectiveness.

JIM

[70z28lt1]

I think the flakes might be "SALTS" precipitation, Filter them out with a coffee filter- one possible "solution" (Pun intended!)
I need to purchase some Ph testing strips to keep tabs on my concentration levels and "sweeten" the solution periodically to maintain effectiveness.

JIM

Jackpot!  I think you are correct.

Good idea on the Ph.  I wonder what a good "range" would be?

[169INDY]

Jackpot!  I think you are correct.

Good idea on the Ph.  I wonder what a good "range" would be?
[/quote]

He Told me over the phone & I have them in my notes at home. It was a tight range and requires ordering some or finding some stripes that are not generic and yet easy to read.

[70z28lt1]

pH meter?
https://www.amazon.com/VANTAKOOL-Accuracy-Measurement-Household-Drinking/dp/B0789G7MVP/ref=lp_393271011_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527080870&sr=1-1

[Mike S]

 Those flakes are a normal byproduct of the phosphate process. Just filter the solution through a coffee filter to remove them. If the flakes are allowed to sit in the tank or pot then it will eventually develop a thick crust on the bottom and sides.
  Keep the phosphate solution temp between 160-190. If you let the solution boil then you'll likely see more flakes. For pure water I use deionized water (DI) from an item used in the aquarium hobby called The Tape Water Purifier. It’s a low cost way to get pure water compared to the more costly Reverse Osmosis (RO) filters. The one thing to do so as to prevent streaking on larger parts is clean, clean, clean and wear gloves when handling the parts before the phosphate bath. This is what we do when treating firearms and the solutions are the same but sold under the name of Parkerizing and you can get that for either gray or black phosphate.
  When I plate the bolts, nuts, washers or pulleys I'll de-grease them followed by glass beading then placed in a jar of denatured alcohol (small hardware) until I'm ready to plate. The larger items like water pump & alternator pulleys I'll put in a pot of boiling water before they get put into the phosphate solution to remove any possible oils and that also brings the larger parts to a higher temp so when they get placed into the phosphate bath, the process starts almost immediately. This works for me with car and gun parts.
  The one important thing is to pre-condition the new phosphate bath with a fine iron particles in a coffee strainer to get a good finish when first using the solution. Here is a link to a PDF outlining the process used in the firearms hobby:
https://www.brownells.com/userdocs/learn/Inst-482%20Parkerizing.pdf

Mike

[169INDY]

Mike, Thank you for the Link that is one good resource!
just about as good as MIL-DTL-16232G & I went to our local Naval plating plant and obtained their local engineered procedure.

Funny guys here are talking about phosphating bolts, when I was under the impression most "hardware" was post mfr. treated via a Black Oxide Coating for ferrous alloys which is a different process than photsphating.

just a suggestion  a Alkaline Rinse  (W hot & cold water rinse) would be a recommended PARTS activation after your denatured alcohol degreasing, just a thought,,,,

JIM

[70z28lt1]

I know many industrial fasteners are black oxided, which is a multi-step process and as such more costly than manganese (dark) or zinc phosphating.  My understanding is that due to cost savings GM went with phosphating most fasteners-brackets.  There are some exceptions.

[68camaroz28]

As many have described the white stuff that shows up on hardware after manganese or phosphate process is salts related or what I have found. I used to use WD-40 as Palmetto suggested that and to clean the parts three times with WD-40. Using a tooth brush scrubbing the parts seemed to eliminate the issue but I found an easier way using good old red Mystery Oil. I just take the parts out of the solution and drop in the mystery oil and then at some point take them out and wipe off. Not one time have I've encountered anymore salts (white deposits) on hardware after the chemical bath. I also use a hot plate as it cannot get the solution to boiling and maintains approximately 180 degrees.

[mark2020]

Anyone know if this company is still in business? Called the # on their website and got a recording that it is no longer a working #. Found a # from '09 on this website. It did ring and got a generic VM. Left a msg. Doing the research, sounds like a good product, inexpensive and easy to use. Is there another company  that offers the same type of product?
Charles

I know a Chinese filter element company(www.zhehanfilter.com) can offer similar products. You can ask them on their website.

[70z28lt1]

Anyone know if this company is still in business? Called the # on their website and got a recording that it is no longer a working #. Found a # from '09 on this website. It did ring and got a generic VM. Left a msg. Doing the research, sounds like a good product, inexpensive and easy to use. Is there another company  that offers the same type of product?
Charles

I know a Chinese filter element company(www.zhehanfilter.com) can offer similar products. You can ask them on their website.

Selling on eBay:

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