69 RF brake lock up?

[Sauron327]

Sauron, I agree. It,was all I had as I just wanted to see if the system worked.  Hopefully tomorrow my new meter valve Will be,here as I was not able to cancel the order.

No worries. One of my cars has adapters. Not every car needs to be a non-driving trailer queen.

How did you verify the intermediate rod length and clevis rod adjustment?

[Kelley W King]

I think I would look to see if the right and left have some differences. Maybe the calipers do not have the same clearance? Maybe the pads are not the same thickness? Maybe the rotors are not the same thickness? If all else fails swap the pads left to right, and maybe the rotors. But I would do one thing at the time so if it fixes it you will know for sure what is was. My corvette with drums did it only when cold and it turned out to be one auto adjuster was working and the other was not.

[Rufcar]

Kelly in earlier posts I list that I changed everything and checked the rotors. The metering valve was missing and I install an old one. That's why I am installing a new one today.

[69Z28-RS]

Kelly in earlier posts I list that I changed everything and checked the rotors. The metering valve was missing and I install an old one. That's why I am installing a new one today.

Where did you find a NEW (original) metering block??
Did you ever verify your distribution block was a GM original part, and disassemble/clean it??

[Rufcar]

I removed the distribution block when I installed the exact repo and blew it out and it seemed fine but I install the new one. I will know more once I bleed the system with the the new rebuilt metering valve.

[Dave Siltman]

Maybe it's me, and I'm probably older than a lot of the young whippersnappers here, but here are my thoughts: Rufcar, you have a fair amount of money invested in a '69 Camaro that is sure to appreciate in value. PROTECT yourself and your investment! That bunch of mangled brake lines looks like a day-old bowl of spaghetti! Instead of chasing the rabbit that you apparently can't catch, buy a kit from Inline Tube, Ground Up, or the Right Stuff and stop aggravating yourself! The kits, while technically not 100% concours correct, appear relatively like original (get the correct kit with the '69 hold-off valve) and WILL STOP YOUR CAR without you WHITEKNUCKLING THE STEERING WHEEL!!! As another member posted earlier, and I agree,  GM spent tons of money and employed many engineers perfecting that disc front/drum rear system. If it worked in 1969, you can make it work in 2016 by simply replicating the system! I get that you wanna save money, but skimping on brakes isn't the place to do it! What happens if you are out exercising those 400 ponies and a kid jumps out in front of you, or somebody texting in the intersection up ahead doesn't see the light change? I may have some used-but-still-usable parts in my stash, but when it comes to safety my friend, I blueprint every item in the steering and braking all of my cars. Good luck, Sir!!!

[Rufcar]

http://www.camaros.org/images/brvalve/bv_mcylpipes.jpg
 This is the picture you guys gave me in the earlier posts and I copied it. What didn't I do that is not exactly like this pic other then those 2 reducing fittings on the MC? Remember I inherited this problem when I purchased the car and have changed out everything to match that factory pic. I was doing Rolls and Bentley restorations many years before I started to again do muscle cars and RR has over 90,000 parts per car and extremely complicated brake systems. Yes Im over 67 years old too! Yes I have way over 40K in this car without my labor and I am never trying to save money always trying to do it right and I thought I was as I have followed everyone on here's advice. Once I get to bleeding the new parts I will report back.

[Rufcar]

Today bleed system with new metering valve and right wheel locks up 1st! All front parts are new and so are both rear cylrs. I have done everything to spec and I have gained nothing. I thought I had it after I Installed the 40 yr old metering valve but the rear cyl went out, repaired those and then the RF  front locked up again. Got a new metering valve and now Im back to the beginning where RF locks up on easy braking. I am now at a loss as I have everything to the factory picture and parts. 

[69Z28-RS]

Sometimes it helps to have a new pair of eyes looking at the problem, especially when it gets to be as frustrating as this must be for you.  Do you have any closeby automotive friends you could ask to come over and help you assess the problem?  ie..  Just step back and think at a high level about what all you've done??

[Rufcar]

I actually have had 2 stop by 1 was a gm mechanic for a dealer for over 40 years the other works on mainly Jap cars and both are stumped. I may change out all the front steel lines and see if that helps. Today I re read all the articles on 1st gen brakes to see if I missed anything. I looked up Ground up 396 Mstr Cyl and Vac booster kits and they are plumbed differently then the picture on the CRG brake page as they have the Metering valve line to the  LF side of the dist. block instead of the front center!  I have mine plumbed exactly like the CRG pic. I have been stumped on complicated things before and I am sure I will resolve this. Even though I am replacing a bunch of newer parts all will be evenly new when Im done replacing the rest. The car is in one of my heated garages for the winter so I have all the time to find the problem.
It really is sort of simple and that is, something is giving me more pressure to the right front wheel or less pressure to the LF wheel. Humm now I wonder what that is, then problem solved!

[69Z28-RS]

If you are using ANY aftermarket parts, then all bets may be off re what we suggest to you here regarding the original system.  The Distribution block in the 69 Camaros was ONLY a distribution block, whereas over the years since then, mfg have gone to a 'combination' valve, which actually does various valving functions as well... Mixing systems of two different designs could be causing what you are experiencing...

[Rufcar]

I appreciate that and I will continue to search out the cause. Tkx for all your help. Jim

[Dave Siltman]

My guess is that there is a kink in one of the steel lines. In one of the latest posts, you said something about replacing the front steel lines; are you now telling us that the current front lines are old? Have you examined all of them CLOSELY and looked for any kinks? If a previous owner installed headers, there is a good chance one or more of those lines were bent, either intentionally or unintentionally. Many headers make contact with brake lines or junction blocks making an "adjustment" necessary. Shadetree mechanics are not fun to follow!
Please keep us posted on all updates or discoveries.

[67 RS Ragtop]

Just wondering (maybe I missed it) what was the hydraulic pressures at both front calipers, while under light application? In my past life I used a set of gauges and actually verified pressures right to left, or front to back, etc., on problem vehicles (formerly a Factory rep for a truck manufacturer). This may be be a way to confirm the "cause" of your ongoing issue.

[Rufcar]

Dave I did not replace the front lines but I did run a new temporary line to the left front wheel and the right still locked up. A bent line to the right should make the left front lock up yes?
67 RS I was thinking the same thing today. I just have to make a gauge up as I did check all out local suppliers and they have none. Any suggestions on a gauge I can use and plumb in? I am also not sure of total pressures. I read the list on our site here and some pressure go over 1000 psi under braking?  I also did not see any specific gauges on line for sale only ones used in an ABS application.