69 Z shifter

[X33RS]

Just a ball park.  What is the going rate for a complete shifter assembly these days?  The rods, housing, stick and knob that is complete, correct, and in perfect working order.

[JoeC]

are you looking for restored or unrestored survivor condition?

you can get some prices on ebay

there are some on ebay with from about $700 with reproduction parts to a restored/ re-plated one on there for $1500

the original rods are getting hard to find

[X33RS]

Just curious is all.  Helps me to make a decision.  Mine is intact and working fine, my wife just doesn't like the feel of it.  She's used to the aftermarket Hurst Comp Plus that has stop bolts etc....

Since these originals seem to be pricey, I may just bag it and store it away and refrain from any modifications to it.

I see Hurst makes Comp Plus shifters now complete with the round sticks for the factory look.  But there are 2 of them.  One is more of an OEM reproduction but still has stop bolts in the body along with original looking rods.  The other is Comps version of it with their rods, but still has a round stick.  Oddly the OEM reproduction is cheaper.   Here is a link to both.  Anyone use the OEM version?  I'm curious as to why the $100 price difference.  They both still have the round stick.

OEM replacement from Hurst
https://www.hurstshiftersonline.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=340&idcategory=5

Hurst version
https://www.hurstshiftersonline.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=596&idcategory=5 

The biggest difference I see from the 2 is the OEM version having rods that adjust like the 69 shifter, where as the regular Hurst has modern rods and threaded inserts like every other Hurst out there (oddly that's more expensive)    As long as the OEM version still uses the bushing kit on the rods I'll go that route and save $100.  Can't tell in the picture.   Both appear to have the reverse arm that works with the back drive linkage.

Thoughts?

[Stingr69]

OEM repro mounts like the original and uses a GM style mounting plate.  Looks like it may use the aftermarket style bushings at the ends of the rods but who knows.  No rubber ones in pictures so that is probably good.  They were not great.

The aftermarket Comp plus now uses a multi piece mounting plate.  The Comp plus from back in the day actually reused the existing GM mounting plate where most all other applications used a provided generic Hurst mounting plate. 

They are both probably good pieces.

[X33RS]

Thanks Stingr,  I don't see the rubber bushing setup in the OEM style version either, so I'm guessing it uses the bushings that you see in a "pit pack"   Which is one thing I'm after.   I figured someone had tried this so I thought I'd ask.
   I'd like to get away from the rubber, and I'd also prefer some stop bolts in the body, all for a more positive feel.   It appears to have both.

[JoeC]

That original style shifter looks like the cheep rod kit that may not be very strong

there is a cheep repop rod/mt plate/lever  kit for $119

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camaro-69-Hurst-Shifter-Linkage-Rods-Kit-Small-Block-1969-/252233127379?fits=Year%3A1969%7CModel%3ACamaro&hash=item3aba4415d3:g:yjsAAOSwKtlWhX3n&vxp=mtr

the better repop SB rods are sold just rods for $180

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Camaro-Hurst-shifter-rods-SB-Made-in-the-USA-/271848654498?hash=item3f4b7146a2:g:VX4AAOSwqu9VOYoz&vxp=mtr

1969 Hurst aftermarket shifters for Muncie trans always used a thick mt plate and a spacer plate same for BB and SB
1969 Hurst aftermarket shifters for Saginaw trans told you to use your original rods and mt plate as they didn't make an install kit for 69 Camaro with Saginaw trans

[X33RS]

Thanks for pointing that out Joe.  That very well could be the difference in prices.  Makes me think I should probably go with the second Hurst link for not much more money.

[JoeC]

Whats wrong with your OEM shifter?

If it is rebuilt and set up correctly, it should work OK

The OEM doesn't have the bolt stops and has the rubber isolator mounted chrome stick but should be fine for normal driving. Unless you are racing the car or shifting it hard, you may be better off putting the money into rebuilding your original shifter

[X33RS]

Original shifter is perfect and works great.  I don't mind it at all.  It's my wife that doesn't like the mushy feel it has.  After years of her driving stick cars with Hurst comp plus shifters she is really used to the positive gates, stiffer center spring, and a more positive feel of each gear.
  As decent as the factory shifter is, it still feels empty in each gear, it over shifts without the stop bolts making the throws feel further than they need to be, hard for her to tell where the neutral gate is etc....
  Ultimately it's her car to drive so I'll do what makes her feel happy.  But I'm not going to drill on the housing for stop bolts, change center springs, and drill arms for bronze bushings.   I would much rather bag it, and install an aftermarket with a correct looking stick that hopefully has the tighter feel she wants.   One day when I sell the car I can easily reinstall the original stuff.  I just figured with all the 69's floating around on here that someone has tried one of these shifters and might have some input.   I know the $500 version of the Hurst Comp Plus is a good piece, I was mainly curious of the difference between that and the $400 version they sell.  It's the same body and stick, so I guess those rods are cheap and may not use the bushings.....
   

[Z28Project]

Having a wife that enjoys rowing the gears in a Z/28 is well worth putting in a shifter she likes!!

[69Z28-RS]

so NOW we know who the racer is in your family X33... 

[Kelley W King]

My wife has never complained about the shifter, although I have several cars. If you want to do something original have Danny.s Transmissions in Greensboro NC rebuild you original unit. He has done several for me including my 69 Z. Unless she is trying to lower her ET (then you need a straight line which is not fun on the street) she should be happy. Be proud you have a partner that can and wants to drive a 4 speed.

[X33RS]

Haha, thanks guys.  Yeah I hear about her street escapades on occasion, she loves driving these classic cars.   Just as I do with all my cars, it will eventually see a little strip action in pure stock form to see how this sneaky stocker build runs, so having a perfect working tight shifter is a must for that.  But 99% of the time it's mainly a nice cruiser for my wife.  So I have to keep her happy. 

[jdv69z]

Original shifter is perfect and works great.  I don't mind it at all.  It's my wife that doesn't like the mushy feel it has.  After years of her driving stick cars with Hurst comp plus shifters she is really used to the positive gates, stiffer center spring, and a more positive feel of each gear.
  As decent as the factory shifter is, it still feels empty in each gear, it over shifts without the stop bolts making the throws feel further than they need to be, hard for her to tell where the neutral gate is etc....
  Ultimately it's her car to drive so I'll do what makes her feel happy.  But I'm not going to drill on the housing for stop bolts, change center springs, and drill arms for bronze bushings.   I would much rather bag it, and install an aftermarket with a correct looking stick that hopefully has the tighter feel she wants.   One day when I sell the car I can easily reinstall the original stuff.  I just figured with all the 69's floating around on here that someone has tried one of these shifters and might have some input.   I know the $500 version of the Hurst Comp Plus is a good piece, I was mainly curious of the difference between that and the $400 version they sell.  It's the same body and stick, so I guess those rods are cheap and may not use the bushings.....
   

I'm buying one to install in place of my original. I'll let you know my opinion after I install it and give it a try. I don't know how you cheapen the rods unless they are smaller diameter, but I guess I'm going to find out.

[X33RS]

I was wondering the same thing Jimmy.  I'm guessing like you said, probably smaller diameter, and curious if the arms and levers use bushings.  Interestingly the picture for the $400 shifter doesn't show that detail.

I assume you are going with the OEM $400 replacement?  Yes I'd be very interested in what you think about it.  Let me know.  It will be a few more weeks before I make the move.