68 L78 Rallye Green

[cook_dw]

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[cook_dw]

Just to give everyone an idea of what I was working with before I started this preservation process..

[maroman]

I surely hope you realize how lucky you are!

[firstgenaddict]

Most people do not realize how well the car can actually look without being restored...

I did a refurb on an original paint 1922 Oldsmobile SS V8 with aluminum engine block a year or so ago. (First aluminum V8 made.
 
I have an original paint 1918 twin 6 packard coming in a few months...

I am getting ready to do an original paint 1936 FORD he wanted to paint the car... I have convinced him to refurbish rather than restore.
Entirely too many cars were restored... cars which should have been preserved, now all of their details are lost to time and lack of knowledge.

[69Z28-RS]

I totally agree with James;
Darrell's car fits perfectly into the category "TOO NICE TO RESTORE"...

[firstgenaddict]

I used to only like Chevrolets, now anything unrestored I love to work with, it doesn't matter what make or model, as long as it is old and never been restored, preferably with original paint.

[cook_dw]

I surely hope you realize how lucky you are!

 I fully realize and know exactly how lucky I am..


James you are correct and am glad I am able to get ideas from your experiences..   

[67rs/ss350 68z/28]

Wow that looks Great! That's a lot of work, but it really looks unbelievable. Would you happen to have a picture of where the metal brake line attaches to the rubber flex hose in the rear? ( from outer rocker and the bend to the brake hose bracket) I bought new line kits for my car ( 68 Z) and the fit is terrible, not sure where I have to bend them?  I also had the brake and fuel line clips plated and powder coated ( by JM a while ago), not sure which ones go where?? I know Chick has them in his post but not sure, the AIM doesn't look correct either?? Just a little confusing, Most likely just me

[cook_dw]

See if these help.

[67rs/ss350 68z/28]

That's perfect. I have a lot of bending to do  Thank You!

[cook_dw]

I wanted to add this here.  I had previously tried using a rust remover that I thought could do the job and replace the more expensive Evaporust..  Well that wasnt the case..  So I broke down and got a 5 gallon bucket of Evaporust and went to work.  I knew going in that it would more than likely remove the paint markings and I KNOW!!! I said I wasnt going to repaint anything but because the rust remover took the paint markings off I felt it was important to reapply them because I had photos of it before..

Here are the before and after.  I had to knock the shine off the markings and I think I am close but its not 100% exactly like it was but it is what it is and it was my decision so I have to live with it..

[maroman]

Darrel, do you use Gibbs? It will protect bare metal and actually stay wet to the touch for a long time.

[cook_dw]

No I used Cosmoline aerosol Rust Veto to protect the bare metal.  What is Gibbs?  Its not ringing a bell.

[BULLITT65]

Darrell the drive shaft "touch up" looks good to me. I may have done the same.
I will have to tackle this on my 69 Z one day. Did you totally submerge the drive shaft in the evaporust? for how long?

[maroman]

Gibbs is the very best penetrating oil/water displace/starting fluid I have ever used, google it. It can even be painted over, so it can't have sillycone in it.