Hurst shifters

[HawkX66]

Sure looks like a complete factory 69 shifter. If you knew what that set up is going for, or even parts of it, you wouldn't be thinking of modifying it. Our shifters did have rubber bushings from the factory and replacements are available. They just don't look OE. Very nice, complete set up you have by the looks of it. You still should look on the side facing front for the #s 3138. They should be there.

[X33RS]

Yeah I've seen the prices, crazy.  $500 for rods, I've seen the shifter housing in the $600 plus range.  Cracks me up.

The rubber bushings that are in the housing arms on mine, which look to be injection molded, are in perfect shape.   I've taken the rods since I had them loose, and fit them in the other 69 housing I have a picture of in this thread,  the rods fit exactly the same way, not tight, but not loose.  I would describe it as a very slight wiggle fit.  Nothing excessive.  The rods fit into the arms of the side cover of the trans in the exact same way, just a slight wiggle fit.  There are no oblong holes or grooves or any signs of wear.   My problem is that even though the movement is minimal at the rods, that problem exaggerates buy the time it gets to the shifter, and will give a sloppy feel.

I'm sure this is fairly normal so I figured (or hoped is a better word) that people have found a way to install sleeves without modifying the rods or the arms in any way.  If I could find a thin wall copper or bronze tube that is the right diameter, simply sliding that onto the arm before installation would tighten it enough to be satisfactory without any permanent modifications to the shifter.  That's really the way I would prefer to approach it so there is no harm done to the shifter at all that would affect value in any way.  If anything, it saves the shifter from any wear as long as I use a softer metal for the spacers, or even nylon would work.  Then when wear does occur, it's happening with the bushings and not the arms or the rods.

Maybe it's time I break out the mics and calipers and come up with a diameter and wall thickness that would work and then start searching the internet for a possibility.  I'd like to think you can buy bronze tube in any diameter and wall thickness you need.
   Funny I have to go through this now, because the fix for years was to just buy a comp plus shifter with it's steel bushings and shifter stops, a stronger center spring, a handle that bolts on solid, and have a very nice positive feeling shifter.   Daggum numbers matching stuff takes the fun out of it, lol.

[X33RS]

Here is one possibility.  3/8" tube with .030" wall.   The wall may be too thick but this was just a quick search.  So what I'm thinking might be doable.  I just have to measure diameters on the rods and arms and do some math.  Cut pieces to length and simply slide them onto the rods to take up the slack.

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1545&step=4&id=84&gclid=CjwKEAiA8ee0BRD1l7vV6JHe0zISJADxYItm4RQBG52zf1YIJB2vLCekqT9Vfpdf3fBmH2JgpElKjhoC4z_w_wcB 

[69Z28-RS]

If you can identify an inexpensive (tube/sleeve) solution, you could probably sell to others with the same issue... 

[HawkX66]

Daggum numbers matching stuff takes the fun out of it, lol

Sounds like a pretty good plan. I'm in the same boat as far as #s in a lot of cases. A few bolt on parts I've just gone a/m on until the right part/deal comes along.

[X33RS]

I'm searching that site I linked to and I'm seeing a couple possibilities where I could drill the inside diameter of a tube to fit the rod and still have some wall thickness left to take up the slack in the arms.  Then they would simply slide on the rods, install your spring clips and done    And no modifications to the shifter.  I know this may sound time consuming or maybe not worth the effort to some, but I'm a fanatic when it comes to stuff like this and less then perfect just bothers me.  If I can just get a more positive feel out of the shifter, even a small amount, and remove most of the slop felt at the stick, I'll feel I've accomplished something.

I think this might work.  Time to start measuring things.

[X33RS]

If you can identify an inexpensive (tube/sleeve) solution, you could probably sell to others with the same issue... 

When I figure it out I'll just pass along what I did and what I used, and others can do it if they wish.  If it helps someone else that's great.

[bcmiller]

Your plan is probably going to be about the best solution to try - if you want to keep all of the original components and get a "tight" felling shifter.

Normally there should be numbers on the rods. Yes the finish did vary in 69.

I am more curious on the numbers on the rods for that August late 69 shifter.

For pics - lots of times for things like this it works best in natural light -  without a flash.

[X33RS]

Ah okay, the pics of the early 69 shifter is the complete setup still on the trans that came out of the Z.
   The rods for the late 69 shifter are on the nomad.  The entire late 69 shifter setup with the 1970 Camaro handle was on an M21 that was installed on my fathers 57 nomad and just sat there since 1972 or 3 and never driven.  I later installed that trans and shifter in the 56 nomad but I changed the shifter housing and stick for another comp plus that clears a bench seat, and left the original rods intact.  It's been 30 years since that car has moved, but just recently runs and drives now. 
   I'll jockey some cars around and get that on the lift and have a look at it.  Just give me some time to do so and I'll get the numbers off those rods for you.

[bcmiller]

If the setup is all original - I am just curious if the rods are 69 or 70.

[X33RS]

You have me just as curious on the rods now.  I never paid it much attention before, never knew the date on it (or even cared to check it) till now.  Being Aug 69, and the fact that 70 production started late, that would almost have to be a shifter meant for 69 I would think.  But that original stick is coded as 70 Camaro from what you guys are telling me.

I'll make an effort to get under it tomorrow.  Hopefully the rods have numbers and you can figure out what this is from.

[Bryan302]

X33RS,

If you could try stores like Tractor Supply (TSC) or equivalent for nylon bushings or bronze bushings for your linkage slop, they have had a good selection in the past.  Also, if you have any industrial supply places, try them for polyurethane round stock or bronze with your correct o.d., drill and ream your i.d., cut to length and your set for a tight shift!  Polyurethane or nylon would be similar to the throttle arm bushings.

Jusy my 2c,
Bryan

[Stingr69]

Use the aftermarket Hurst Comp Plus and add the original GM stick.  Just need to drill the bottom of the stick.  It will still fit/function with the original GM shifter if you ever want to go back.  Tried it on a spare GTO shifter handle once and it worked fine.

[bcmiller]

Personally I would never drill/modify an original bayonet/slip in style stick. That might weaken it. And there are other options.

Plus it sure sounds like the original poster wants to keep it all stock.

[X33RS]

Yeah Stingr, I know what you're saying, I can't bring myself to drill on it but the thought did cross my mind  .   I don't mind however doing some digging and a little bit of my time to make bushings for the rods/arms.  They should have had bushings originally in my opinion but that's just the way they are.   30 years ago I'd have just thrown a comp plus at it and be done with it.  Now this old stuff costs too much to discard it.

Bryon, I have some numbers for you off of the linkage that was attached to that Aug 69 shifter with a 70 stick.

The 1-2 shift rod has an L and then 2488
The 3-4 shift rod is blank best I can tell, no numbers on it
Reverse  has a D and then 3404

I'll say the last "8" on the end of 2488 is hard to make out, I thought it could be a 6 but pretty sure it's 8.

3404 was the same way, I had trouble reading that last number but based off of the first 4 that is clear, it looks like the last number is also a 4.    Seems like the last digit on both of these stamps were a little faint. 
  I hope this helps you some to maybe determine something.