Operation: Get Dad's '69 RS Convertible Running

[tribri1]

My dad's 69 RS convertible has not been on the road since 2001. He has owned it since the early 70s, I am spending the week getting it road worthy while my parents are away on vacation. Here are some photos. I am focusing on mechanical and safety hoping that once it is drivable it will kick my dad in gear to get the body work done.

[69Z28-RS]

Nice looking car and great history..      Does your dad KNOW that you are working on it while he's gone?? OR .. are you going to surprise him? 

[tribri1]

Nice looking car and great history..      Does your dad KNOW that you are working on it while he's gone?? OR .. are you going to surprise him? 

Nope he does not know I am working on it. I gave my mom the heads up and she got the insurance going and updated the registration. I don't live in the area so not only does he not know I am working on it, he has no idea I am in town. If all goes well, I will drive it down to the beach and get a photo with all of his surfer buddies in it then sent him the photo.

[69Z28-RS]

Well... Here's a heads up for you.... 

If you change any parts...  be sure that you keep anything you take off (don't turn it in for a core charge)... or you might find a PO'ed dad when he gets home if you gave AutoZone his *original to the car* parts...     and when you are cleaning, do not remove any 'original patina'.. 

I'm just guessing that your dad MIGHT be as ... what? protective of his car? anal?? ...  as some of us.. 

[tribri1]

Nope not even getting rid of the Poncherello sunglasses I found in the center console.

[vtfb68]

Early car, 210 hp 327? what area is the car in. is that a tach on the console?
   Victor

[tribri1]

Replaced all the fluids, hoses, battery and ignition system today. Was able to start it up with starter fluid and ran it for 10 minutes or so. It idles fine, but when I step on the gas it dies if I ease on the gas it is fine. Tomorrow I am pulling and rebuilding the carb. I am hoping that will clear up the issue. Then I am moving to the braking system...

Early car, 210 hp 327? what area is the car in. is that a tach on the console?
   Victor

The car is in South Orange County, it is a Van Nuys build, so as far as I can tell it have never been out of So Cal. It spent most of its life as a self in the garage. The clock is mounted on the console.

[Mike S]

.....................It idles fine, but when I step on the gas it dies if I ease on the gas it is fine. Tomorrow I am pulling and rebuilding the carb. I am hoping that will clear up the issue. Then I am moving to the braking system...
   Victor

 That sounds like a classic symptom of either the accelerator pump is bad or the fuel bowl check ball is stuck open which causes a temporary lean bog when the throttle is opened suddenly. A rebuild kit should fix that.

Mike

[69houdini]

tribri1, I'm not too far away from so OC , if you need some help let me know

[tribri1]

Rebuilding the carb did the trick, It now starts great and purrs like a kitten. Tomorrow I am moving on to the breaks.

For a bonus I would love to get the mechanical light covers working again. Any hints or tricks to trouble shoot them or common problem ares to look at?

tribri1, I'm not too far away from so OC , if you need some help let me know

Thanks if i get stuck I may PM you. I am only here until Friday then I head home to Oregon.

[69Z28-RS]

Rebuilding the carb did the trick, It now starts great and purrs like a kitten. Tomorrow I am moving on to the breaks.

For a bonus I would love to get the mechanical light covers working again. Any hints or tricks to trouble shoot them or common problem ares to look at?

tribri1, I'm not too far away from so OC , if you need some help let me know

Thanks if i get stuck I may PM you. I am only here until Friday then I head home to Oregon.

The things you could do quickly and simply:
1. Lubricate all the hinge/rotation points
2. Check the vacuum lines for disconnections, or rotten hoses.. (there's a bunch of vacuum lines that are used to operate the covers..  just follow them all out and check.
Here's a link that provides a diagram and some other information:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=218567

[69pace]

Nice project and surprise. If the doors are open, look at the service switch on the tank - drivers side wheel well. It should be in the normal position for the headlight switch to have effect. If the actuators are not rotted out and leaking vacuum the doors should close once in the normal position with the headlights off. If the headlight switch is gone bad and leaking often the doors open. If you disconnect the small line to the top of the service valve, the doors should open. If the actuators are frozen then they may be refreshed with some silicone spray through the front and back ports then spin the can to distribute the spray arounf the inner seal, then test for free movement by hand.

[tribri1]

Ran out of time to post yesterday's progress, I replaced the wheel cylinders on the rear brakes and bled the system. I am not getting much fluid out of the rear brakes when bleeding, nor am I able to easily push the pedal to the ground when the bleeder screw is open. Is this normal?

[BULLITT65]

I would recommend replacing the rubber lines going to the brake cylinders in the front (1 each side), and then replace the one rear brake hose that connects to distribution block on the rear end. These rubber lines break down over the years and will collapse when applying pressure to the system. I have also had the rubber expand so much as to pinch the inside of the line so much you couldn't fit a toothpick in there.
Replacing the rubber lines isn't hard to do, toughest part is having a good grip on the metal lines to break each one loose, without damaging the metal line or nut.
Good job, keep up the good work!

[69Z28-RS]

Rubber inside the hose may be deteriorating and preventing fluid flow to the rear cylinders.  Replacing the hoses is a good thing to do.  (Note:  Keep any/all parts you remove for your father).. .. including wheel cylinders, hoses, etc...