Just noticed an auction for you original BB guys

[69Z28-RS]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121827943402?item=121827943402&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

Original (low mileage) rods and pistons (std) from a 396/325...   At BIN of $99+$59 shipping, I'd think the original rods would be worth that much to a BB fella....?

[bcmiller]

Probably not on just the rods.  On the whole deal, yes maybe if someone still has a standard bore block, they might be worth picking up.

For rebuilds, a lot of guys use the truck or "thumb" rods.  They are stronger.  See pic attached.  Arrows show where these rods have more metal, and thus are thought to be stronger.

Or they go aftermarket.  I have some new H beams - all weight matched and ready to go for the next thing I build, after the two 427s I finish.  But that's going to be a while.

[L78 steve]

How do the Thumb rods compare to the dimple rod strength wise?

[bcmiller]

Steve, honestly I don't know which would be better.  The "thumb" rods are mainly in 454s. 

I have one 427 short block here with 0.040 over cast pistons, 3/8 dimple rods, forged crank, 4 bolt main block (512 CE from Nov '68).  I have NO idea why someone would put cast pistons in this assembly, but that's the way I got it.  Then there is this other 427 short block (not assembled but it is all there) 0.040 over forged TRW pistons, 3/8 thumb rods, forged crank, 2 bolt main block (512 CE from May '71).  What I would really like to do is swap the forged pistons into the 4 bolt main assembly.  Just have no need to do that right now, since there is a complete 427 (destroked LS5 block with big dome pistons that were fly cut to get the compression where we wanted it) ready to go. That's a backup engine that has been on the engine stand at least 17 years.  Fresh.

Hopefully someone will chime in.  I have heard the dimple rods had better metal, but the thumb rods are a little more recent (early-mid 70s into the 80s I think). 

[bcmiller]

Making sure GOOD ARP rod bolts are used is probably just as or more important. Use the best possible that still fits the budget.

[cook_dw]

Honestly it really depends on what you are wanting to do with the engine.  For a stock rebuild or mild street/strip; I havent seen much difference in the rods..  But Bryon is right..  Bolts are the most important piece.  Finishing up a 475ci bbc for a guy and used dimple rods, ls6 block & crank with SRP pistons.  ARP replacement studs and nuts on the rods..  I would have went with aftermarket rods but its gonna be a street engine so really wasn't a reason for it in this situation.   

[L78 steve]

I've always used the dimple rods and know they are good. First time I heard of thumb rods. Thanks for the info.

[69Z28-RS]

Are you guys suggesting that you can purchase NEW aftermarket rods that are better than factory GM rods for a BB for LESS than $20/rod?   If so that would surprise me greatly....

[cook_dw]

No Gary I am not saying that..  Im saying if a stock build is what you are after then these are a great pick up..  I would buy them but I already have a couple sets and dont need them.

[bcmiller]

Are you guys suggesting that you can purchase NEW aftermarket rods that are better than factory GM rods for a BB for LESS than $20/rod?   If so that would surprise me greatly....

No, I am not saying that either. But those are stock rods. I will ALWAYS overbuild the bottom end. Build it once and forget it.

Price in this case doesn't matter, because I would at least use thumb rods instead of those stock non-dimple rods.  The thumb rods are not hard to find, and just as cheap or cheaper.   

For someone that is serious about building something, use these.  And if budget doesn't matter, try Oliver or Carrillo rods.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-61353dl19/overview/make/chevrolet

[X33RS]

Something to keep in mind, those used rods aren't really $20 a rod.   In the end by the time your done with machine work, magnafluxing, resizing, new arp bolts, you are going to be in those rods for about $300 on top of your purchase price.    That's what makes the aftermarket rods so tempting nowadays.  Decent quality rods that are stronger can be had for not much more money than that.  On top of that in most cases, the aftermarket stuff is also lighter in weight, another bonus.

If you are truly on a budget than I can see rebuilding used rods to save a little.

[69Z28-RS]

In my 40+ years, I've seen many many more problems from use of 'aftermarket' items than by using GM factory parts.   I always try to use the best high performance parts that Chevy produced... and yes, get them resized, reconditioned, balanced, and new rod bolts.    I'm not a big block guy, so I'm not interested in any BB stuff.. .. but I thought someone in here might be.

[X33RS]

I'm an "everything" guy 

It depends on what you get, you do have to be careful, saving a few bucks sometimes cost more in the end. Stock stuff is okay for a mild street car.  If your into making power, even with stock "appearing" stuff,  you'll find a limit with internals.  Lots of power to be had inside the engine with new piston designs, smaller ring packs for less friction (OEM's do that now), lighter pistons and rods, all this stuff frees up power.
    I'm a big fan of Carillo like Bryon mentioned, they are spendy though.  I've also used Eagle that was hit and miss.  For a while even the Eagle rods had issues on the big end, and had to be resized, but that was years ago.  Seems they have straightened that out the last 3-4 years.  Scat has been pretty good to me as well.
   For what it's worth, Tony Bischoff whom I feel is one of the best engine builders in the country, just built a stroker 571 for my father, block, crank, rods, everything aftermarket.  Tony chose to go with Eagle rods in that setup.   To me that says a lot about their quality.

[JohnZ]

The folks that make the "good stuff" tend to survive in the marketplace - when I ran my AA/FD in 1961-62, I built that 392 Hemi on a Chrysler Marine block and heads, with a Moldex crank, Carillo rods, and a Chet Herbert roller cam; Moldex, Carillo, and Herbert are still in business 54 years later. 

[janobyte]

Love these engine posts. Have to agree with everyone here! I have one BB on a stand, looks odd.  Like Gary, into small blocks. (bigger cubed ones) Not counting the 302, and a 64 327 I just gotta keep for ever.

Preaching to the choir, but it all depends on the package, big or small. Which equates to HP being made, demands on the components. I see countless posts on other sites questioning cam choices with no thought into head flow ,compression, springs, etc...

3300# "real street" car dipping in the 12's, literally tons of good GM parts out there. Bolt it together with ARP's.

Now the Gasser weighs in at 2250# , certed 8.5, Callies/Oliver/JE rotating assembly. Car's the epitome of " overbuilt" (which I am a proponent of) considering the class I like to run it in.  Bringing it up on the primaries for launch and 6200 shift points pulls it there effortlessly. Beauty is maintenance pretty much consists of draining the water in winter and fluid changes. Far cry from the days of drag racing the Z with a manual trans. 7600 shift points. Apples and oranges, however talking purpose built vs. multi purpose.

 Car did take a lot of abuse, more from my father. The Z really was a great "package" , but had it's weak areas.

Having walked all over this thread, I'll end it with a quote I read from an engine builder: " Easy and relatively cheap to get 500 HP out of a SBC...once!"