73 M21 in 69 SS396 (Custom Shifter Mount)

[z28z11]

When my buddy and I bought the '68 Z, it had a M20 '70 fine spline/400 output 661 cased Muncie on board, with the Hurst universal (plate/U-bolt) tailshaft mounted shifter base, and a Competition Plus console shifter mounted to it (car is also an original U17 option). Also on board, a Lakewood steel bellhousing, aftermarket 11" flywheel and a cut driveshaft.
Sure, it drove and shifted fine, but not original by a long shot. Since the car is a documented original, and came with an M21 originally, we started putting it back together from the flywheel out. Took some time, but the originality is worth it in my opinion. Down side - it's an original Camaro '68 M21, but not to this car (I'll post the VIN one of these days), it still uses a Hurst shifter (with a Muncie handle), but it functions like it should and still looks basically stock. We sold the '70 Muncie, bellhousing, flywheel and used the proceeds to buy the Muncie, 403 bellhousing, driveshaft and even a '68 dated 021 flywheel and the proper starter. Actually came out pretty close to even - just have to dig -

Regards,
Steve

[OG69Z]

I'm trying to make up a mount to mount my stock shifter to my 73 M21.
 I'm going to try to make a mount out of a solid block of aluminum that I have.

I think you are on the right path and should be able to come up with an acceptable mount. I'll post some photos of a couple I did to give you some ideas.
The first three photos are of an original M21 in a 68Z, SCCA A/S road racer. This is a race application with straight shift rods and no console, but does show what you can do with the mount.[/URL[URL=http://s1223.photobucket.com/user/1969Muscle/media/DSCF4265_zpsbt4tw5yo.jpg.html][/URL[URL=http://s1223.photobucket.com/user/1969Muscle/media/DSCF4281_zpsloenzrxt.jpg.html]

This is a photo of another project with the larger output shaft. It has a slightly different offset, but the same basic idea.

Keep in mind you will need to have a relief in your mount for the main pin that protrudes out of the shifter when in reverse, that is the larger hole in the mount plate. Your solid aluminum piece should work, but the use of a thinner mount plate and spacers allows for some offset adjustment as needed.
Hope this helps!
Robert

[HawkX66]

When my buddy and I bought the '68 Z, it had a M20 '70 fine spline/400 output 661 cased Muncie on board, with the Hurst universal (plate/U-bolt) tailshaft mounted shifter base, and a Competition Plus console shifter mounted to it (car is also an original U17 option). Also on board, a Lakewood steel bellhousing, aftermarket 11" flywheel and a cut driveshaft.
Sure, it drove and shifted fine, but not original by a long shot. Since the car is a documented original, and came with an M21 originally, we started putting it back together from the flywheel out. Took some time, but the originality is worth it in my opinion. Down side - it's an original Camaro '68 M21, but not to this car (I'll post the VIN one of these days), it still uses a Hurst shifter (with a Muncie handle), but it functions like it should and still looks basically stock. We sold the '70 Muncie, bellhousing, flywheel and used the proceeds to buy the Muncie, 403 bellhousing, driveshaft and even a '68 dated 021 flywheel and the proper starter. Actually came out pretty close to even - just have to dig -

Regards,
Steve

Thanks Steve. Originality is important to me for the most part, but with not having the original m21 I'm not sweating not having a 69 m21.

I'm trying to make up a mount to mount my stock shifter to my 73 M21.
 I'm going to try to make a mount out of a solid block of aluminum that I have.

I think you are on the right path and should be able to come up with an acceptable mount. I'll post some photos of a couple I did to give you some ideas.
The first three photos are of an original M21 in a 68Z, SCCA A/S road racer. This is a race application with straight shift rods and no console, but does show what you can do with the mount.

This is a photo of another project with the larger output shaft. It has a slightly different offset, but the same basic idea.

Keep in mind you will need to have a relief in your mount for the main pin that protrudes out of the shifter when in reverse, that is the larger hole in the mount plate. Your solid aluminum piece should work, but the use of a thinner mount plate and spacers allows for some offset adjustment as needed.
Hope this helps!
Robert

Those pics were perfect Robert and will definitely help. Other than the straight shift rods and the positioning of the shifter, that's the idea I was thinking about. Your set up looks professional and I hope I can get mine looking near as good. I'll post up some pics when I'm done.

[HawkX66]

Nothing to it! lol... Seriously though, mountain out of a mole hill. Here is what I came up with. First, a/m 69 Camaro Hurst big block shift rods fit perfectly. Second, fashioning my set up off the Hurst kit was easy. The top hole of the Hurst kit is in the right spot. The other two need to move, but it's not bad. $160 for the shift rods and the 69 bracket to modify as well as all the bushings. I'll take it! I'm still going to make a mount out of my block of aluminum just for S&Gs, but at least I have a template with measurement to go off of now.
In these pics, I just have everything mocked up. It still needs the bushings installed. They also came with the Hurst kit. You can see the driveshaft in one of the pics. It's 49" on the money with a TH400 yolk.

[Stingr69]

Looks good.   Still needs to be perfect to avoid the stick hitting the plastic console tunnel when driving. 

[HawkX66]

Looks good.   Still needs to be perfect to avoid the stick hitting the plastic console tunnel when driving. 

Thanks. You're right about watching the position. My original plastic console tunnel has a chunk taken out from either reverse or 1st gear. It happened pre 1982 so I was definitely thinking about it with the positioning. I was surprised how far to the right of center it needed be in the neutral "rest" to be to be able to get it into reverse correctly. The console isn't bolted down so it looks like its back by 1/2" or so.

[vtfb68]

68 hurst shifter? Must be aftermarket your refering to, no factory hurst till 69.
   VT

[vtfb68]

The U clamp for a F-Body Muncie 68 Hurst comp +(#2916561) is 5293 and the matching mounting bracket is # 5284,
   VT

[HawkX66]

Final set up with the console bolted down. I might move the shifter over 1/4" to the DS & back, but everything seems to be working well together. My 4 year old wanted to go for a cruise in it last night after he helped me install the lower valence, fender extensions and front bumper. Who was I to deny him? Imaginations are a great thing lol. 1st gear, 2nd gear... My 15 yo just wants to hear it run again. He was 8 the last time we cruised in it together.







I might use my Hurst T handle...

[firstgenaddict]

Hawk... what is the date on the M21? I need one for my brother's 73 RS LT Z28, the original was with the car first time we looked at it (in trunk busted cluster) then after we bought the car it was missing.
01A is my build.

[HawkX66]

Hawk... what is the date on the M21? I need one for my brother's 73 RS LT Z28, the original was with the car first time we looked at it (in trunk busted cluster) then after we bought the car it was missing.
01A is my build.

That's too bad it disappeared. Here's the stamp. P3K06B. July 6, 1973 if I'm reading it correctly. Let me know if it's something you need even though it's a pretty late date for a correct replacement. I'm not emotionally attached to it as long I have something to put in its place. I'm about to put a new reverse idler gear in it as well as all new seals and gaskets. Otherwise it's in excellent condition.