Update Camaro is making progress once again SS/RS 69 BB

[ZLP955]

Great to see some progress, er, in progress! Car looks really solid. You're going to choose another color though aren't you?

[Sauron327]

I've been using pins and bushings from my local jobbers for decades on countless hinges without issue;
so does every other shop I know. Never needed to buy them from a restoration vendor. Like many parts, they have tolerances and if you want zero play you just use the ones in stock that provide a tight hinge. If you are building a non driving, museum piece then you'll have to make them appear like factory parts.

[68camaroz28]

Have limited examples but what we've found is pin wears that holds the roller on the detent body. The pin reminds you of a wheel stud as it's splined and pressed in. Wear is normally on 1/3 of the pin circumference so it seems logical relocating the detent assembly 180 degrees in the hinge assembly would get one back to normal. The left side pin came out of a NOS door hinge purchased in 1979. The pin seemed to be soft and wore quickly which you can see in the picture on the right side of the pin. The pin to the right is a donor! Note there is some wear that can be noted on the left side of that pin but not like the pin on the left, and both the length and diameter is longer/larger on the donor pin. I used my NOS roller (carbide drilled out the I.D.) and utilized the donor pin and body. The donor roller was pitted! Placed a small file mark on the body to note where the donor pin is like new so it can be oriented correctly when installed. 

[Mike S]

I've been using pins and bushings from my local jobbers for decades on countless hinges without issue;
so does every other shop I know. Never needed to buy them from a restoration vendor. Like many parts, they have tolerances and if you want zero play you just use the ones in stock that provide a tight hinge. If you are building a non driving, museum piece then you'll have to make them appear like factory parts.

  My '67's use what looks like nylon bushings on the upper hinge pins only. I have only seen bronze replacements for these.

Mike

[x77-69z28]

Willie makes his own detent rollers and other parts. http://www.hoodhingerepair.com/ I send 67 hinges to him because they are different from 68 and 69. His procedure is better than factory. He bronze bushes the detent rollers on 67's. For what he charges it is not worth my time to rebuild them. 67-69 OTC kits are not as good as his. Not sure why a shop would proceed with bodywork without doing the hinges first.

willie is awesome! He did the original hinges on my 70Z project. They came out great. Definitely the way to go Bentley. Keep up the good work.
Buddy

[Sauron327]

Have limited examples but what we've found is pin wears that holds the roller on the detent body. The pin reminds you of a wheel stud as it's splined and pressed in. Wear is normally on 1/3 of the pin circumference so it seems logical relocating the detent assembly 180 degrees in the hinge assembly would get one back to normal. The left side pin came out of a NOS door hinge purchased in 1979. The pin seemed to be soft and wore quickly which you can see in the picture on the right side of the pin. The pin to the right is a donor! Note there is some wear that can be noted on the left side of that pin but not like the pin on the left, and both the length and diameter is longer/larger on the donor pin. I used my NOS roller (carbide drilled out the I.D.) and utilized the donor pin and body. The donor roller was pitted! Placed a small file mark on the body to note where the donor pin is like new so it can be oriented correctly when installed. 

It is best to replace the pin and not rotate it.  The worn pin is no longer round so it will not rotate on the bushing correctly There is a lot of pressure on the roller and changing these after a car is completed is time consuming. I have three cars here with worn or snapped pins.

[BULLITT65]

I agree I have had to do it on a car with finished paint. It was easier just remove the door replace all the worn out pieces and re-install. I made some identifying marks prior to removal so I could get the hinge back to the same spot. Much more preferable to do it prior to paint.

[Sauron327]

Bronze bushed '67 new roller by Willie. The white ring is just lube. If the non original bushing, an improved design over factory bothers some, just ask him to eliminate it. The reproduction screw in studs are inferior compared to his pressed in ones.

[ko-lek-tor]

All this information and pics is invaluable to me and others, Thanks guys. Somewhere, though, we got off on a tangent about detent rollers.
Scott, I understand and have heard that real tight tolerances can be achieved by mix-and-match of parts. I guess as long as it is as good as when the car was built originally, I will be happy. I do intend to drive the car and probably won't be on my back a lot wiping the frame down. None-The-Less, when I do something, I want it as 'right' as I can make it.

Breaking News: Today, hinge pins arrived along w/ subframe bushings. The brand of the s.f. bushings are Classic Suspension. It is just the rubber sleeved pieces. I ordered separate the washers. All stuff came from HBC. I divulge this as some may have an opinion or advice and can private PM me. Sorry, I already got parts, before asking opinions, but I need to move quick on this. If there is some real problem (not correct, will not fit right, you could have saved$,  etc..) or if you want to reply with a kudos (you got the best, that is what I'd use) type comments, then reply in a private PM as well, Thanks!

[ko-lek-tor]

Things are coming along. Before and after. Guy saved original fender,welded patch and coated fender with a rust remover (surface). Only problem, amount charged to repair I probably could have bought a NOS? Oh well, that is the problem having someone not familiar with prices doing work.

[cook_dw]

Looks great!!

[ko-lek-tor]

More After it was determined that the repro top dash plate was JUNK, I cut the dash out of the parts car and they took the lip where the windshield sits and welded it to the dash and put the whole thing installed. BTW, A friend told me that the AMD whole dash fit like a glove on his car. May have gone that route, but guy doing work did not want to wait another 10-11 days for ship. Free ship from JEG'S.

[ko-lek-tor]

last So far,
NOS= RH fender,RH door skin,header(nose piece), both 1/4s, cowl panel, RS grille, core support.
Born with= LH fender*,door,roof rockers,tail panel, inner fenders L&R, all RS metal except main tank. 
GM replaced used= dash,hood,lower valence, RS tank*
Reproduction= L&R front floor pan, RH toe panel patch,RH rear floor pan, center trunk pan.
* fender was replaced in a LH corner collision in car's early life which damaged RS tank and front door LH (door was repaired, dented tank replaced)

[BULLITT65]

Very nice. Keep it all moving forward buddy

[ZLP955]

Great progress Bentley. Do you happen to know what primer (epoxy?) your body guy is using?