Cracked Cylinder Wall Help

[Axlman]

Good evening everyone.
Some opinions and advice please.
Just had a crack in the cylinder #2 wall.
The FAST Easy EFI One failed, car just shut off and would not start, in fact it vapor (fuel?) locked and wouldn't crank over.
After some frustration with the EFI FAST said it needed to be sent to Tennessee for a look. So I pulled the whole fuel injection system and put a mechanical fuel pump back on. Removed the electric fuel pump and regulator.
But when i fired it up it blew white smoke and the rad emptied. I assumed it was a head gasket and changed it. But it ran rough and I knew something was very wrong. When I pulled the head again the piston was down and i got a look at the crack. (see picture).

Now I need some opinions and advice.
Is there any way that the manifold i left on after removing the FAST EFI could have over fueled the engine and caused the pressure ?
Any other thoughts on what caused the crack?
I am going to have it sleeved if possible as it is almost a perfect dated engine. Cost here is $300 to have it sleeved.
Any opinions would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[ss jim]

What kind of coolant temps did you have prior to discovering the crack. What caused your engine to lock up was water in the cylinder. I've had needle and seats get stuck open before and flood the cylinders and put quite a bit of gas in the oil pan but no lock up. I cracked my original L48 block in 1973 by overheating it on several occasions. I too changed head gaskets (twice) thinking that was the problem. It finally locked up, cracked the piston at the wrist pin and bent the rod. Needless to say at that time nobody thought about the future worth of numbers matching original drivetrains so I got an engine from a junk yard since it was my only transportation.
Jim

[Axlman]

Thanks Jim.
The temp came up a bit twice but nothing very hot. Fan had an electrical issue and it did overheat but that was a couple of days before it happened.
Not to much to worry about now I guess. The block is at the shop getting a sleeve.
Hopefully it doesnt take too long and it will be back on the road.

[ko-lek-tor]

While I am not familiar with the EFI you mention and have, I have heard of injector failure that would fill a cylinder with fuel and cause a lock up. This was a problem with early GM efi's, IIR. Can't compress a liquid. Do not confuse this with what you mention as a 'vapor' lock which is completely different as a vapor is a gas. In automotive speak, usually refers to fuel boiling in fuel line, hence, boiling liquid=vapor and creates a hard or non-start condition. Whether fuel or H2O caused, the result is the same, engine damage with an "S" shaped connect. rod. What came first, cyl. crack or liquid lock-up is debatable without inspection. Regardless, better to check it all out (components), and I do mean thoroughly check out ALL components including magnafluxing and Zyglo-ing and checking critical tolerances or you are bound to repeat history.

[KurtS]

I agree. Sound like you could have hydro-locked the motor. Check that rod....

[Axlman]

Thanks guys.
I have the block at an engine shop getting sleeved and he is checking everything thoroughly as well.
Will try our best not to repeat. EFI is off the car and staying away. Back to mechanical fuel pump and old school.
Was better anyway I think. Easier on the electrical as well as far more easy.