Should I paint over lightly stamped numbers on my original BU rear end

[67rs/ss350 68z/28]

Moderators not sure where to put this? On my 68 Z my original 12 bolt rear BU stamp is very lightly stamped. I painted over it once and couldn't see the stampings. Would you still paint over it? Might not be able to see stamped numbers if I do it again. What would you do?

[1968RSZ28]

Paint it!  You have the above photo for your documentation.  If you don't paint it, imagine how hard it will be to read once the axle tube starts to rust and pit.

Paul

[Kelley W King]

I might would clear over it myself.

[67rs/ss350 68z/28]

Thanks, You both have the answers I was thinking of but???  What to do?

[1968RSZ28]

Paint is what was there originally.  Clear is NOT! 

Paul

[67rs/ss350 68z/28]

Paint is what was there originally.  Clear is NOT! 

Paul

Good point!

[Sauron327]

Over-reduce epoxy and blow on a light coat. If you don't have epoxy grab a pint of satin XO-Rust at the hardware store, over-reduce that and do the same.

[dannystarr]

I would first decide if I want factory correct for shows. Am I selling the car any time soon. THEN you can show the buyer the picture. If not, then I would want to see it, AND be able to show other people in person on the lift. I would then tape it off and box it out nice and clean. And either lightly mist some black over it for protection, or leave it bare and clear it out. Danny

[Charley]

Just buy a spray can of gloss black lacquer and paint it. It goes on thin and comes off easily.

[67rs/ss350 68z/28]

Thanks! keep em coming  They all sound pretty good

[janobyte]

As I'm going through mine, I'm documenting via digital photos ,creating files/photos on the computer(saving on an external) and posting on here when questions arise. I am not sure who now is keeping the data base on 68's since Ed B's departure from the site. Another reason being, if anything ever came  missing ending up on auction ,I have some sort of proof the parts are mine. Distributor for example.) Just do a before/after pic.

 As far as your question: I'm in favor of painting. Like has been suggested, maybe just feather over the area you want to display as not to fill the text.


My car was covered with goop out of the dealer, so none of those numbers have seen the light of day since 68.

To me it has been sort of fun gathering and filing the data...bit of an OCD thing

I strongly recommend picking up a copy of Jerry M's book. Has been a real time saver and a wonderful reference. Well worth the money.

[67rs/ss350 68z/28]

    I've had my car for 27 years now. It' still not done, I have 10 classic cars and try to play around with all of them, yes I guess I'm addicted. My 68 Z is going back to concourse correct, most likely will never be driven. So that kind of takes the fun out of it. I have more fun beating or driving the other cars and not worrying to much about blowing it up.
    I actually have both of Jerry's books signed by Jerry. I had a lot of my parts restored by Jerry years ago, carb, intake, exhaust manifolds, nuts, bolts, fan blade , fan clutch and a truck load more. I actually drove down there to meet him and drop off the parts. Super nice and knowledgeable guy! He has a nice shop!! I do have some pictures of my car before I started restoration, but they are on old paper pictures ( before digital )
    My car was factory undercoated, yes I did have the body on it's side and did get all the under coat off ( it took forever) But under the under coat was like new. Still has original floors and trunk
     I guess I will try to put a light coat of satin XO-Rust? Never heard of that one. As mentioned here. And see how that works
    Danny good to see your taking your car to MCACN, that time capsule should  be shown. I would love to go but that is a bit of a trip for me.
 Thanks for all the replies

[Sauron327]

        I guess I will try to put a light coat of satin XO-Rust? Never heard of that one. As mentioned here. And see how that works
   

The easiest way out is a rattle can like Charley said. Just be careful as aerosols are high in solvent content and may lift an uncatalyzed paint. I mentioned gun spraying because this is my job; many owners are not set up to do so. Although not stated on the can, XO-Rust performs best when mixed with enamel hardener at an 8:1 ratio and will dry like a rock. It works well for certain cost effective jobs. In fact, a friend uses it on the undercarriages of his excavators and it holds up for years. There are many aerosols available like SEM Trim Black, Transtar Trim Black, or even Zero Rust through your jobber; most grab aerosols from the hardware store.

Undercoating was not applied to the belly at the factory, only partially to the front houses and fully on the rear houses.

 

[67rs/ss350 68z/28]

[.Undercoating was not applied to the belly at the factory, only partially to the front houses and fully on the rear houses.

 
[/quote]

I didn't know this. My car had not complete undercar, but most of it coated. ( I'm sure I took pictures I would have to look) It was the same under coat in the rear wheel wells as was the floor pans them selves. I don't remember it on the front fender wells, but I still have my originals buried in the basement

[69Z28-RS]

Back in those days, the dealers offered 'full undercoating'.. if they were done in the dealers before the car picked up road salts by being driven,then it worked pretty well to protect the metal, but many people bought their cars.. drove them a while (or years) and THEN decided to have them undercoated, which resulted in the metal rusting under the undercoating.  I'm unsure when that practice stopped, but I haven't had a dealer offer me undercoating in many many years; nowadays, they try to sell you the 'paint protection',  and other 'extras' that are dealer added and mostly ADD to the dealer's bottom line!