Correct Date Code Carb or New?

[Mark's 68 L78 RS SS]

Is it worth the extra $$ to find a date correct 4053 DZ carb for my 68 L78 or should I just go with a new one? Will it increase the value of the car to have the date correct carb even though it is not original? A very reputable guy from all I have heard can get a date correct carb (not a restamp) and restore it. His work looks great and he is well thought of. Or I can just go with new from Heartbeat City or others. The car is mostly original or factory correct and I tend to lean toward that but we're talking about $300 or so difference. I will show the car locally but it is by no means a 1000 point car or anything like that. It's mostly a really nice driver for cruise ins and shows and sunny days (the six or so sunny days we actually have per year here in Central New York)

Any opinions?

Thanks

Mark

[lakeholme]

Mark,
I know of what you speak!  As you know, that delimma isn't any easier in the sunny South.  Today would be a perfect day to drive and look at Fall colors, but I'm painting several small parts.

Three thoughts:
If you are ever going to truly restore your car to original, it's not going to get any cheaper in the future.  (If anything, original is rapidly getting more expensive and harder to find.)
But if you are happy with a local show driver, fine!  Most of the guys I've known who restored to a true show car did a whole lot of work, spent a large amount of money, and agonized over never really getting to drive it!
If you truly want to restore a car and have a driver, then you need three cars: the show car, the driver and a parts car...

[Mark's 68 L78 RS SS]

Phillip:

I already have too many personalities to fit in one car, never mind three    I think I will go with the correct date carb.  I know where there is one with a date of two weeks before the car build so it works out good.  it's just a tough hit money wise.  Especially considering I will not be driving the car again until March or April.

Mark

[bbd564]

I would get the correct dated carb not the repro.  But,  the correct carbs are always around, keep shopping and don't pay too much.  Also, it may be best to get a core and then choose your own rebuilder for the carb so you know the work is done correctly.  I have had carb's rebuilt by a number of people and there is a big difference in quality.

[Ron C.]

Mark,I just bought a dated carb for my 67Z, The 3910 is hard to come by with a factory date and i paid considerably for it.It is what you want for your car,you know it will be more valuable with correctly dated parts and maybe someday you might want to enter a judged class that looks at numbers.

[Mark's 68 L78 RS SS]

Okay gus:

Eric at Vintage Muscle Car Parts found me a date correct carb and, being as his busines sis restoring carbs he will restore it to like new condition.  I have heard good things about him from either this site or TC so I guess I will go with him on this unless anyone has any reason that I shoudn't.

Thanks for the input and JohnZ, I am sure Jerry would do a great job too, it's just that Eric came through first.

I'll let you all know how it turns out when I get the carb in a month or so.

Mark

[Ron C.]

Mark make sure the carb date preceeds the assembly date of the engine not the build date of the car.dont get a date that is between the engine assembley date and the cars build date.

[bertfam]

Ron,

You got that backwards. The Carb was installed on the engine on the engine dress line and not at the engine assembly plant. The carb should preceed the date of the vehicle assembly so if your car has a 02A build, the carb should be before that.

HERE'S GOOD READING regarding the assembly procedure of these cars.

Ed

[Jerry@CHP]

Bertfam,

You are right regarding what carb dates work for the vehicle.  Carbs were installed at the assembly plant so the build date of the car is what is paramount.  I might add when buying an original carb, make sure it has the correct original base plate and metering blocks.  Over the years, many original dated carbs seem to have the thicker replacement base and changed metering blocks.  Very easy to tell.  In the driver's side rear corner area, the plate is a lot thicker.  Originals have very thin webbing in that area.  Most of the common Chevrolet Holleys use a 5583 front block and 4519 rear.  And by all means, go for the original carb, your car will have more value in the long run.  The new Holleys have the replacement base plate and hex head float bowl screws making them quite a bit different than the originals.

Jerry@CHP       

[Mark's 68 L78 RS SS]

Ed and Jerry:

Oh man for a second there I thought I had screwed up.  Thanks for the clarification.  I thought I had it right and am pretty sure I do.  The engine stamping is T0524MQ and the build date of the car is 06C so an 861 carb is correct, right?  Just want to make sure.

Mark

[Jerry@CHP]

You're good to go.

Jerry

[Mark's 68 L78 RS SS]

Jerry:

Thanks for the confirmation.  The car is mostly original and I'm trying hard to keep it as close to factory correct as possible.

Mark